Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Thought the first one might be Holm oak, not really familiar with sweet chestnut as not a lot of it round here.
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I guess the problem is the tree is old so won't really grow wound wood very fast, and the exposed heartwood area will be massive.
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The form on a standard M10 X 1.5 tap will be exactly the same, so this can work as a scraper. I've done something similar on a 0.5 pitch on a cycle rear wheel, obviously that was aluminium and not as deep so I could see what I was doing.
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I've cut slots into a bolt with angle grinder disk before, works really well for cleaning up rusty internal threads. I guess depends how bad it's mangled up, maybe worth a go?
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Yes, you can get the 1/4" parts from RobD at chainsawbars. I found that actually Makita make a 1/4" version and that's the sprocket that Rob sells, you can use panther or apparently possible to fit Stihl bar with slightly different chain length. I think it's an essential conversion as the finer cut is so much better for pruning. Not sure I would say it makes battery last longer, I've only ever used 2 or 3 on conifer hedge whacking so wouldn't have said it was a problem. If I'm dismantling then I use the DUC256 as more capable on bigger stuff.
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dolmar 120 super (68cc) chainsaw (watch video of saw running) WWW.EBAY.CO.UK The saw is a genuine low hour saw which starts and runs like it just left the factory. all original, original cylinder piston with tons of compression. it will start 1st pull when warm and go straight into tick-over and ticks-over up-side-down as demonstrated in the video. And would someone please buy this so I don't keep looking at it? Would be @DCS6800i ?@shavey ? He's also selling a 288XP which looks pretty good nick.
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Now Husqvarna have stopped the 365 II think Makita EA7900 is the cheapest pro saw that'll run 20" easily, is a bit over your £500 but will go bigger bar too if you need it. I would prefer that to a 441 any day. 461 also a cracking saw, look at the bars and chains on offer as that can add up. I just bought a secondhand saw and actually needed new bar and chains when I got to see it close up - another £100+ out of pocket straight away.
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There are some diagrams in Beraneks book. I don't see a reason for it other than you've already cut the gob and then you notice something to miss so try to steer it round a bit. Otherwise why not just cut the gob pointing the way you want it to go? Not something for me.
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Stove as main heat source
Dan Maynard replied to Dazza95's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
You do open the upstairs doors though? Don't want the thought of another arbtalker by the fire in his undercrackers. -
No, Dutchman is where cuts don't line up one end of the gob so effectively the horizontal cut is a bit deep.
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The good thing about the Predator 360 is the turntable, it is easier to spin that than most small grinders which lock one wheel and roll the other back and forth in the grindings. For this reason I think it's the best one to have if you're getting a 13hp pedestrian. The handle also folds in so you can get it down narrow passages. I've used the 460 for a day, I found the extra power over the 360 noticeable and the motorised drive saves a lot of shoulder and back ache. If there's room I would hire that every time. I think the bad thing about Predators is the build quality isn't brilliant, they are cheaper than for example FSI and I think to an extent built down to the price. All depends how much you're going to use it. I'm happy at the moment with my strategy of hiring the best machine for the job and letting Ben Burgess worry about the grinder breakdowns.
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I think with dead or rotten you have to plan as if the hinge could just snap and lose control, because one day it will and you don't want that to be a surprise. Stack everything you can in your favour - side guy lines, remove weight by taking limbs off (polesaw), assess the rot, winch rather than wedge against a lean, use the most sound wood might mean shallow gob or line hinge up with buttresses. Every tree needs a different plan, I don't think there is a special cut or method which will make that hinge secure again. It actually sounds as if you're well on the way building up experience, which has taught you to be cautious as these are unpredictable. I've had ash snap and fall 90 degrees to the hinge, but I was 30 metres back on the tirfor handle and there was nothing in the field for it to hit so no worries. Only thing I didn't want was the tree to go backwards into the brook, so the winch had that covered.
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150 10" 261 16" 461 25" If it really had to be just 3. Probably exhaust and timing mod the 150 in this set whereas I haven't bothered with mine as I change to 201 if I want more power.
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You're all bad people talking about eBay. Last time on there I bought a 9010, must resist now....
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Help will removing conifers cause heave?
Dan Maynard replied to Millie1976's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
A few houses in the street having some subsidence over 80 years isn't too bad. Don't panic would be my suggestion. Having them ground out isn't going to make a difference to the house, it will just cost a few quid. Surprised they didn't offer a price when felling them. They will rot down eventually but 12-18 months sounds a bit optimistic, I'd have thought at least a few years. -
One other idea, there's a chap I did a tree for who runs a lawn treatment company. He offered to take my cards round as people ask him about trees but he doesn't do them. I would taken him up but not got time to deal with the enquiries I do have. Who do you know? It's good to make sure all the people you know are aware of your venture - start of the word of mouth network.
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I had a reasonable amount of work off bark a few years back, I liked the fact there was no commitment on my side but just pay when you want some leads. I found if I was nearby and could give a quote more or less on the spot and do the work very soon then I could win the job. Had the odd gem - one lady had me back for more hedge work and then a few months later her best friend rang, that sort of thing. They used to put out leads nobody had responded to for 1 credit after a few days, and leads were usually 3-5 credits. Now seem to be 9 or 12 credits quite often which is a bit too expensive in my opinion..
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It would take 20 years if virus spread was linear, but it's not, it's exponential in the early stages.
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It's all right, doesn't need one as it's got no chain.
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Ah you may be right. I was thinking there's more air in between brash than chip, it gets smaller when you cut it up.
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Removing the roots of a beech hedge
Dan Maynard replied to jcampbellsmith's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Hired in chipper, bet you. -
Got to be a Facebook add 'free firewood, just needs cutting down'. Should have it sorted in no time.
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There's a factor here of shape, otherwise woodchip would be very light.
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I think nearly any tree grown in a dense patch like that will go tall and thin, it's about the light. I'm thinking of field maple, you see it roadside go pretty bushy round here when it gets light all around. Would be good firewood, and coppices well - but in woods it will go tall and straight. I'd go hazel, then when it's all cut to the ground you get a useful crop even if it's pea sticks and basket weaving, and in 5 years there will be some log size pieces.
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Do you ever look on Yell for anything at all, ever? £90 x 12 months seems a lot to me, like Steve said better things it could be used for.
