Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Spikes like harnesses don't fit everyone the same, definitely borrow some until you need to and have a chance to work out what you like.
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Yeah I'm going to leave the jumping from tree to tree until after watching the advanced chapters.
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When mine has done this it's dirty battery terminals or loose battery terminal bolts.
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I made some out of cedar, as I had some which was a bit knotty and apparently is rot resistant. Only a year so far though so can't vouch for durability yet. Researching was easier to find info for deodar as everything American comes up with Western Red Cedar.
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Least it's not raining and cold, nice green wet slap across the face wakes you up.
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But if SBRR went from 100% to 75% they would neatly collect cash from exactly the businesses that got the grant. I am reminded periodically of Mrs Thatcher, and her saying it's not government money it's taxpayers money. It all comes from us one way or the other so if the government are giving an advance it'll need paying back.
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Branches in the way means branches to climb on. Push through.
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There's an old saying "an inch is as good as a mile in the right direction..."
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This is the spur, I'm going to buy the Schultz effect and look at SRT seriously while I have a bit more time.
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I had some Scots pine like this, the stuff that was unsplit took in a mouldy look down through the timber. It burnt fine though (once dried), seemed more a discoloration rather than decay of the wood structure. I don't think there is much you can do apart from get it split and dried as quick as possible, once it is dry any decay will stop anyway. Perhaps the ideal is to spread it out more so it gets the sun but that would obviously be a lot of hassle emptying the ibcs. Can't remember the exact thread but someone on here posted a research paper about commercial forestry use of Scots pine as a crop and the blue mould tendency was one of the major barriers.
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Patrick, Educated Climber website/channel is also worth finding. Good knot tutorials.
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I owned a Marlow rope, used it dismantle a tree with chickens living at the bottom, in the rain. Never could get the smell of chicken shit out of the rope. So yeah, I don't like Marlow ropes either. XTC solid choice.
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I would have said our arb rope is generally kernmantle though, the word comes from German Kern=core, Mantle=sheath. As opposed to older style braid or twisted rope.
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I've only briefly used a Spiderjack, had a couple of hours on a zz. I definitely wouldn't rush to the Spiderjack if you can't try one first, they are definitely love or hate (I didn't love it). Using the zz was ok but didn't persuade me to give up the hitchclimber. I'd wait, the chance to try them will come along.
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Switch from years of petrol to aspen will leave the rubber hard, that's a known issue due to the effect of the petrol. Afraid it possibly needs carb service.
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Scots pine a menace for mould. Is it recently felled? Nice sugary rising sap not a help.
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I would email the manufacturer and ask for an official opinion. Maybe they won't answer but worth a try, it's a safety question. Ideally you would have a small torque wrench and check the bolts periodically, taking them out and in isn't quite the same.
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How big is it? I'm finding it difficult to get a sense of scale. If you can't move the arm to put it on a pillar drill then may be a case for mag base drill. You can hire them if you don't have access.
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Good choice. Dolmar/Makita 7900 with 20 and 24 inch bars will be the answer to your next question. I've just seen FRJones have started to list them.
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15 minutes per bundle?
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I don't think a bit of surface mould will be an issue, maybe turn the pile over to bring the worst ones up to the top while you are putting the pallets in. The thing is that around a third of the weight (up to half for some woods) that you have put in the shed is water. If you think of it as several bathfuls that's got to get out of the shed then you can see the need for ventilation. Possible the existing vents could be ok if they are opened, you might have to force the airflow though. Does it smell damp? If there's really no choice on location, maybe some small DC fans would be good, that would be relatively cheap and quiet so could be left running all the time. This is what people have to do with kilns.
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If it's dry it's dry, can be less than 9 months if it's hot and dry weather. Cedar is just fine from what I've burnt, quite light once it's dried out. When you say seems to go ok, can you see it hissing as the logs start to burn?
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I've only used the ZT at work once and had to be real careful to avoid slipping the belt, apparently the tensioner is a weak point. Has he done anything to the tensioner, may be that's the root cause?
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Welcome to the forum. I reckon polyurethane without sanding is a waste of time, and sanding enough to completely strip the varnish so that you can successfully oil to fresh wood would be quite a big job and maybe difficult to get looking even colour right to the edge. I'd go for option 2 and see how it goes. Only potential problem I can see is where the current varnish looks pale may be lifted, unless you remove the old layer then the new varnish will just sit on top and still look pale. May need more sanding than you think.
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I have a 36" low-pro which I ran on my 365 before conversion to 372. Maybe it will go faster on 385 but because it's only cutting say 28" it is within range of the 70cc saw. If I remember I was working off the saw/bar combination on RobD where he suggests longer bar possible with low-pro. I just haven't done enough milling to justify to myself buying a bigger saw.
