Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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This is exactly the type of article that there are lots of, short on detail and not exactly right in everything that's there. You can tell that because they contradict each other in details. As far as I know the higher RON doesn't require higher compression but it can stand higher compression without pre-ignition (also called pinking or knock), this means you can either build the engine with a higher compression ratio or use more turbo boost, and get more power. In a lower compression engine the high RON petrol will burn when the spark starts it just like the lower RON petrol does, it's just a waste of money.
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I've used my Makita in light rain but I don't really trust it. I think the Husqvarna has some rain rating and looks like Stihl do too. Can You Use STIHL Cordless Tools in The Rain? - Radmore & Tucker (radmoretucker.co.uk)
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I would like a proper explanation why this is, I can understand that super is no advantage but not why it should burn hotter if nothing else changes.
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Not really overheating, just find that less weight on the knot makes it tighten less and so smoother to use. Descending like this seems smooth and progressive, I have tried zigzag with pulley at top a few times and find it very on-off which I don't really like. I think some of this is me being 110kg plus kit. Also when pulling up on arms, friction at the top is helping my left arm hold me up while I take up slack with right - so it's not always bad.
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Low Impact Forestry Ltd, covering North Yorkshire and the North East
Dan Maynard replied to IronMike's topic in General chat
Ah, understand. No good asking if you'll be selling one soon then.... -
Low Impact Forestry Ltd, covering North Yorkshire and the North East
Dan Maynard replied to IronMike's topic in General chat
Is that an upgrade or will you be employing another driver, to run two? -
If you're MTronic Stihl say it's fine up to 25% ethanol. Watch the storage time though, 30 days is more important or the ethanol will be absorbing water I think my chipper will be a problem though so sticking to E5.
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As well as softwood, I've made them from lime and poplar - they work ok. Cherry was rubbish.
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If you're on Hitchclimbers then the best cambium saver in my opinion is the multisaver from Teufelberger. The pulley type ones may be excellent on a mechanical but with hitch you are better off taking some of the friction away from your knot. Throw line is one of those things, I don't use it often as prefer going up ladders but when you need it nothing else will do. Make a list of non essential things, to collect as you go along.
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Trailer people haven't been able to keep up for at least a year already.
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Fair enough. I have Yale XTC , which is good in the Ninja.
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If you mean drive through then yes, I meant as a secondary layer on the outside of bars or similar to stop that happening. I did hear a story of someone who has his roller shutter rammed a couple of time and got fed up, "happened" to park his forklift just inside it one night, never got rammed again...
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Oil soaked rag is apparently traditional in Sweden. I have used a firelighter pushed down into the cross, my scouts had to build a very small fire on top.
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The better wireless house alarm systems will reach the garage, I've a couple of motion sensors in there. Mine are also in an Armorguard box which is bolted down to the floor from inside. The guy who fitted my steel roller shutters reckons they are much better than up and over doors. One of his customers sells motorcycles, once he fittted these shutter to doors and windows the thieves resorted to making a hole in the wall.
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Advice re 3 trees in our garden
Dan Maynard replied to kingfisher46's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
You just end up with plastic pollution at the end, but if it's your own garden the pull them out after a few years when the stumps have started to rot. -
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With a bit of luck people will start burning leylandii.
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Harken make the Jetstep for Notch, they also sell it as a Harken Ninja which in my opinion is a much cooler name. The massive advantage of the device is not being kinder to the rope, but that it takes very very little tension to pull the rope down through. That means it starts working only a few feet off the ground, whereas other ascenders either need a good length of rope or somebody pulling on the tail. It takes a bit of practice to get used to, but I think you'll find the foot ascenders to be a good thing as reduce the work required from your arms.
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I can. Last Hitchclimber recall? I do have a HAAS though, it's a good bit of kit when the tree is big.
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I don't think I've seen one much taller than that anyway, seems to me a bit like blackthorn in that self destruct when it gets too big and resprout from base.
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Interested, keep thinking bench grinder for those nail/long chain incidents. I was thinking Stihl make one too but that's about £700 so way over.
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I've never used a manufactured one. It is going to depend who makes the rules where you work, but there's nothing fundamentally to stop you knotting yourself as long as you are competent. Judging competent is another sticking point in some sets of rules.
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If the engine is running but the chain has stopped then your clutch must be slipping, there will pretty soon be signs of heat and blueing. What bar length? Are you letting the engine slow down before it stops?
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Need a video of it pushing a tree. I like that you can quickly take up the slack on the chain.
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Thanks I appreciate this but would be a strong 2 hours drive so hopefully I can find one nearer. Supply seems to be an issue, parts and engine shortages.
