Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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You ideally need a wider cut than a saw bench to let enough air in, to make it easy to light. Chainsaw happens to be wide enough, found 3/8 worked a bit better than .325 in the first ones I made. He will also disappear under a pile of noodles so you need to allow time for getting rid of waste every few.
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Good job. Keep us posted on how it gets on too.
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Could you help identify this tree?
Dan Maynard replied to Edksakd's topic in Tree Identification pictures
You can call it leylandii, as long as you sound authoritative and cut it down quick. Works for me every time. -
Fair enough if you have tried it, I was just thinking that 36" is top of normal bar range for a 660.
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Watch Reg Coates on YouTube, he's in a Stein Vega. Maybe more of a Ford option, but I really find mine comfortable anyway, more than the Treemotion I tried five years ago when buying it.
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Surely a properly working standard pump should be fine on 36" ? No need for a special upgrade just make sure it's cleaned out etc.
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Should I stay or should I go?
Dan Maynard replied to Ste2021's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Agree, definitely look at that before looking at the tree. -
I reckon we could all club together and help by finding you a few loads of conifer logs.
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I've seen recommended not to use the decomp button on a brand new saw as the compression is a bit lower anyway due to rings not bedded in. You should be able to click it back out carefully with a screwdriver, 241 won't be hard to pull anyway. First day I used my brand new 461 I couldn't start it second go but that was because it needs less choke than I thought and then I had flooded it so I know the sinking feeling. Found video by Donyboy in Canada, pulled it over a few times with throttle wide open to pump air through and that got it to cough and then start. Yours quite possibly is flooded too if it hasn't started, there are various techniques to unflooding - some take the plug out and warm it up as well.
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If the soil is any kind of question then pile it in case somebody else plants another tree in future.
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Well they don't make 'em like that any more, as the saying goes.
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I'm coming round to this view, those garden stumps with rubbish in are pushing me to buy a few cheap chains.
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Talk to the insurance companies, shop around. You aren't the only one, they should ask turnover figures before quoting. Mine includes professional indemnity insurance as long as I'm not paid for the advice, which I'm hoping I never need but is a good thing to have.
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The other thing is, make sure it's only a day - a couple of subbies will cost a lot less than an extra day closure. I've rarely worked on proper closures but I subbied in one recently deadwooding in Cambridge we had three climbers and@Wolfie in a MEWP, starting pistol 9am and get the whole lot done by 2pm so they could open the road before evening traffic.
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Many many trees are at an angle, no hard and fast rule about what angle is ok as trees react with extra wood and roots to balance load. However a sudden change in angle is a bad sign. Looking at the crown I think it has been growing like that for a while as the top third is all fairly straight up. Whether it's about to fail depends on how much healthy wood there is in the base, which I don't think we can see. So maybe, maybe not. Best guess it'll be fine for a while but get someone in who has professional indemnity insurance to have a look.
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Steady on mate, you can't just dive right in with the correct answer - we have to try a few options first. Willow?
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That does sound particularly bonkers.
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Can anyone identify this friction hitch?
Dan Maynard replied to DickDancer7's topic in Climbers talk
It's sort of Knut like at the bottom. I'd worry about the bit twisted under getting a lot of wear but I guess you just need to keep an eye on it. I'm on a VT, just need to get the right number of wraps and then it's bonzer. -
I don't think they do a type C.
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I went Arbotec Pro for exactly this, had to get the long leg ordered in. I wouldn't like to claim lightweight exactly but I have worn them a couple of summers. I wasn't that happy with the fit of Pfanners, ideally try them on but difficult at the moment. Stihl aren't great for length as you have to go up waist size to get longer leg.
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That sounds like NE make it up by region. The wood I volunteer in is also SSSI, and NE have had to approve the management plans which include a patchwork of rideside coppicing that is labelled by year until 2029. We also have dormice, which were apparently reintroduced about 25 years ago. And we definitely whack the hazel stools right back.
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He's done it before though it, keeps an air of mystery like the milk tray man.
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That's cheap, I'd only get half a day for that but the machine is nearly new and teeth always sharp. Most people are going to say £100+ just because by the time you've factored in travel, unloading, loading etc the fact that it only takes 20-30 mins to grind fades away.
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Oooh - suits you sir! Sure there was one where they badgered an older gentleman about his sagging scrotum.
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One idea in the wildlife trust is to leave a few stems and then bend those and peg them down to try to layer new stools. Doesn't always work but if you get a few they are free. I've read it's the grey squirrels taking the nuts before they are old enough to be viable which is meaning you hardly get hazel growing from seed any more, so good idea to layer if you can.
