Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Personally I wouldn't run the red in the new saw, even if you have 4 litres that isn't much compared to the cost/value of the saw.
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I run ultra, after working out it mixes with 250 litres of fuel and what that costs, the percentage increase on 255 litres of fuel isn't so bad. Also, that does a lot of trees for me. I have heard it said theres a fuel stabiliser in there - hard to find any details though. Is it just shelf life, or does it do anything to ethanol? It has an E25 symbol on the pot, what does this mean? Thinking maybe as a dealer you get a bit more info?
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Are they good on a 36" ? I've a 9010 which I would have said best Makita for that length but I don't have a 7900 to compare. Otherwise the Stihl 660 seems popular, Husqvarna 395 prices I guess will come down a bit with the release of 592xp.
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If it's a small firm then there's everything else to do as well as pay you, maybe the admin all gets sorted once a week. To me I wouldn't think 7 day payment terms unreasonable, although when I have subbies myself I do try to pay on the day.
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Bet they won't tell you which summer either...
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Dickinson's in Byker, Newcastle might be another option. They have resoled boots for me before, may be able to do that. Edit resoled not resolved. Not sure how you'd resolve a boot.
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I forget to turn mine off sometimes and then spend a few days being disturbed in the night by a funny noise before realising it's the compressor again. Have recently bought an Energenie plug which turns on for 30min when you press the green button, so now even if I forget to turn the compressor itself off it will not come back on. Cost about a tenner.
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Currently have a cracked screen on mine from doing this. In the van current safe place.
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Yes, I'd quite like to grind the stump now to find out what the roots are actually like - I suspect mostly dead.
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Easy split with 6t.
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Mine has a two stage pump, as openspaceman says it means it moves fast with no load (especially return stroke) and slows when it hits resistance. I think ultimately as mine is a single phase electric drive I'm limited by power, you can do different stuff if engine driven like I guess the intensifier.
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And the near the top you wouldn't know there is a problem
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Part way up the stem there is more sound wood
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I was a bit shocked, there is a strip of healthy wood at the top - otherwise all punky.
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What other qualifications/tickets should I do?
Dan Maynard replied to Treepigmatt's topic in Training & education
In your position I did rigging, and I'm glad I did. Has made me much more confident in setting up and rigging, which then helps with efficiency and safety so has to be a good thing. I think next is felling medium tree ticket.- 1 reply
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My splitter is only 6t, it splits 95% of what I throw at it. It won't smash up huge knots or real knarly euc but I just throw that away and split something easier. Ordinary reasonable straight grain woods like birch, ash, oak, pine it's just fine. If you get a bigger ram the force can be higher from a certain pump, but the movement will be correspondingly slower as there's more cylinder to fill.
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Also a hangover measurement, as in "my tongue feels rough as a badgers arse this morning".
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Sure, I'll try to remember to photo it. I don't know if it's hollow hollow or just so spongy soft it sounds like that but definitely not strong solid timber round that side.
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Also look at the rest of the tree, I've found some similar on a Lombardy pop last week. All the branches down one side are dead, it sounds hollow round those brackets and you can push a key two inches in to the wood around a third of the base. By this stage by my reckoning it doesn't matter too much which species the fungus is. Chap called me because neighbours worried about how tall the tree is, upshot it's coming down next Saturday.
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Somebody's got to be on the team, could be him ...
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I've heard of cooling chain causing damage, but must admit I'm not obsessive about checking. This is from MS261 manual.
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Me three
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Is it bunged up inside? I keep thinking can't see inside and surely must be cooling air ducts which could have sawdust in.
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The old Dolmars are heavy, long stroke so masses of torque, most saws nowadays have gone for faster revving but less torque. If you can find a secondhand Stihl 461 that's a good saw, otherwise shavey may sort you a Dolmar 7910/Makita 7900 depending on your colour preference, or various online dealers do Makita. Sachs corp sold Dolmar to Makita in the 90s so the pro saws are still made in the same factory in Hamburg, to be honest they haven't modernised the same as Stihl and Husqvarna. I would suggest that's better value for money than a cylinder for the 123 because other spares are in short supply too so it's becoming a bit of a collector's saw rather than one to rely on. In your shoes I'd probably go 7910.
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Stihl reckon they changed design to cope with E10 over 18 years ago, haven't been able to find such a statement from Husqvarna except a US blog from 2011 saying all current products are E10 compatible so it depends how old your 365 SP is. I would think the xtorq 365 would be ok though. Advice for not keeping fuel more than 30 days still stands, I always fill tanks end of day too as reducing air space is a way to reduce water absorption. When I say old saw I'm talking 1994 Dolmar so I'm pretty sure E10 is risking it in that.
