Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Like to know others thoughts but I think they'll sprout like mad.
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Suck through your teeth and say 'be one of the hybrids, that, very difficult to identify as so many options'. That's my usual plan anyway. Or just call it grey.
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Is that a cam cleat? Chandlers might be a source eg Harken Cam-Matic Cam Cleat | Force 4 Chandlery WWW.FORCE4.CO.UK Harken Cam-Matic Cam Cleat. Available to order now with Worldwide delivery. Harken Cam-Matic Aluminium Cam Cleat Harken ball-bearing cam cleats hold lines securely and release instantly for easy, precise trimming - even under the highest loads.Cam Cleat F
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Crikey. Luckily you're under B for Barnsley, they'll be a while getting to M.
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Need to get into selling the habitat idea more, there's no good and bad just different ecological niches. I'm a big fan of not having to move wood that doesn't need moving.
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I went with the company TruTrak, monthly about half a lot of the others. There seems to be a few manufacturers of the actual equipment and then loads of people reselling and adding the tracking service. It's a balance too, I figured not spend top dollar on the tracker and then spend a few hundred on chain and ground anchor, and wheelclamp. Motorcycle security people do chains you can't bolt cut, and take a while to grind eg Pragmasis 19mm.
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I am a member as we joined up in my engineering business. It does look like you get a lot but we haven't actually used many of the services, no.
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Quick question - best E2E for hitch climber set-up
Dan Maynard replied to daltontrees's topic in Climbers talk
Depends how heavy you are too, I find the knut binds but VT just right. I've also used the 9mm Marlow Boa, current 10mm Yale silver Streak. Also have some Teufelberger Sirius, which seems a lot more slippery till it wears a bit. As gand says you've got to try a few but I think I cut mine 1.2m so buy 2m of each. -
My JoBeau is air cooled, ducting round the engine is a perfect chip trap and even had a fire round the front spark plug in the first hot summer I had it. Made a little house for the engine now so the chip doesn't fall on it.
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I'm pretty convinced they have no idea how many firewood producers there actually are, and if everyone tried to register in the same year they could not cope. I just don't see the system being workable in the real world of people like me who sell a few loads here and there. Surely someone is looking at the number of producers registered and wondering how all the people buying wood stoves are managing to fuel them?
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I really like Patrick at https://www.educatedclimber.com/dr-ed-gilman-teaching-series/ Depends if you like watching or reading, Ed Gilman also has a 600 page book which is basically the same material. Lots of his videos are great, even starting with what knots to use to send stuff aloft.
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Sell the 390 and buy a 592xpg.
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Suggestions for use of pine
Dan Maynard replied to detritus21's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
A load was sold out of our local wood, no good for timber but I believe it went for shavings for horse bedding, somewhere up near Grantham. Apparently worth a bit more than biomass. -
Maybe while I'm on, those NPTC courses are all about using the equipment and not much about trees. It is good to read up about tree I'd, tree growth, pruning, fungi etc as well because otherwise you find out how to cut but not much about why or where which are also obviously important.
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If you have funds and time then I would do what is widely known as CS30/31, that is a 1 week course in saw maintenance, cross cut and felling trees up to 380mm (quals have been renumbered but most people seem to know the old numbers). It's a good fun week, it's the starting qualification for everyone, and once you have that you can use a chainsaw on the ground on site so are much more employable. Then get yourself some boots, trousers and helmet that fit and you're good to go.
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Pretty sure I did mine in A's. 261s seem to be a bit thin on the ground at the moment, more 550s showing in stock.
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Have you done any tree surgery to get experience? The change from IT to tree surgeon is pretty brutal on the body if you are not fit. Maybe take a one week felling and chainsaw and then do some work, get your strength and fitness up before trying the climbing etc. Lots of people advertising for ground workers so should be possible to get some days if you ring around.
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To be fair I haven't tried the neat freak but I just haven't found dangling lanyard a problem that needs solving, it drags through after me. Anything that creates a loop seems to increase chance of it catching on stuff.
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Guess that's an 8 foot sheet?
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Hate to say it but the most important layer is just underneath the bark. In the second photo it looks a bit like brown patches on the front and also lower down, which are not a good sign. How is the leaf coverage on the tree? Can you take some photos from further back?
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Top of this lime was a bowl of mush, was topped really rather than pollard so just initiated severe decay.
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I pulled one of those out of father-in-laws garage when we were clearing it. Had a quick go but I'll stick with my Bahco P34, I find they are strong enough to cut through branches so don't get stuck, and they are telescopic so I have a longer string when the pole is longer.
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Second for foot and HAAS, just add if you have a hitchclimber pulley then the HAAS elastic clips in to a spare hole nicely. Never felt the need to add hand ascender as that would be more gear clinking around.
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If it fits in the chipper it's going in the chipper....
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Well, I just file everything to 30 degrees whether Stihl, Oregon or old Husqvarna chain (which I think is Oregon anyway). Got some Oregon EXL recently which comes ground to 25 but the limit marks on top of teeth are at 30, so I went for 30. Just looks right to me now. I don't know what wood the saw will be cutting next when I put it away so no chance to alter for hard/soft woods, that might apply more in forestry I guess.
