Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Perfect! You're not "going to the pub a lot" , you're "doing design research"
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Bahco triangular bowsaw won't fit in my sawpod very well. The zubat isn't designed to be sharpened either, hardened teeth. As a climber my silky does a lot of reduction work, haven't worked it out exactly but many thousands of pounds per blade. Don't tell Silky but I'd still buy one if they cost twice as much.
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With a bit of luck the inside of his chainsaw wrench is rounded out and there's nothing wrong with the saw!
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If you send the notification in by email then they basically have to enter it in to the planning portal to get it on the public record with everything else, so there will be a clerk trying to answer exactly the same questions as if you filled the online form.
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And how many of them had sump pan corrosion? Case proved.
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This is all shocking, chassis corrosion is a solved problem, shouldn't happen on any modern vehicle. I've a 14 plate Volvo, not a spot of rust on it. Don't mind taking the 110 to have chassis waxoiled, sort of expect it.
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That's it, my Mrs got it for Christmas. I didn't find myself absolutely agreeing with everything he says about trees so not sure it's a completely reliable source but it is an interesting read.
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Plants are sensitive to chemical triggers, I guess alive or dead should be really easy to tell from water content or how much water vapour is around the plant so yes absolutely plausible it responds to the host being dead.
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In a word, bonkers. How does that make sense? All trees have roots made of wood, they all eventually decay.
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As a Landrover owner I can say if your sump pan is rusting then quite clearly you're not leaking enough oil.
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I have read it starts off growing away from the light, which pushes it under the tree canopy. At some point in maturity it switches to growing towards the light, and then climbs up and away. I'd have to find the source again.
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Personally, I think an 18" bar is too much for a 45cc saw as that's only 2.3kW so it will struggle especially in beech. I call it the @Stubby rule, sure he didn't invent it but anyway divide cc by 3 is a good rule of thumb for the bar length it will run confidently. 20" is enough for a 60cc saw, if you are determined to have 24" then better get 70cc but it's a much bigger and heavier saw to handle. I can't open your pictures but a 60cc saw on 20" is a massive step up in power and cutting ability from 45cc. It's tempting to get drawn in to a bigger saw just in case you need it but really you want to be using the smallest saw which is productive, lighter is less tiring and easier to control therefore safer.
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I think Bahco are good but not as good as Silky. I do think the answer is none, get a Silky.
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They do here if they think it's not commercial waste, so strictly if you're home cutting your own firewood it's fine but as a business you can't. They've recently clamped down tight on the commercial waste thing here, which seems ironic because the harder it is to get in the recycling centre the more rubbish gets dumped in the fens.
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Absolutely spot on analysis though imho.
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My reflection is that I'm still not totally sure how much it was actually about the ivy. Why did he even come back to revisit this when he got the same response a few months ago? Guess we'll never know.
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If you put an @ , you can tag the name and he gets a message. You can also find him as AJS Chainsaws, I think he means he's got a bar and chain for sale which to my mind you might as well buy because it will definitely fit.
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Competitor chainsaws can exceed 25kg? More research needed. I think you'll find the terminology you need on the English websites of the chainsaw companies and they'll be happy you are reading it. https://m.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Products/0100/Chainsaws-and-pole-pruners.aspx https://www.husqvarna.com/uk/chainsaws/ etc
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Stop grumbling, it's stopped raining!
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Treemotion promotion at honeys apparently, sure you have the email too. I haven't checked the pricing, sometimes people quote the percentage off RRP which makes it sound amazing but actually nobody sells RRP anyway.
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Copper Beech next to house extension - viable??
Dan Maynard replied to LalaBarr's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Yeah that's a good point, you don't want it to become a planning condition to maintain it. -
Copper Beech next to house extension - viable??
Dan Maynard replied to LalaBarr's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Agree. Only other thought is you could keep it while the extension is going up and new tree getting established, but it's already too close to the house anyway. -
I would focus less on bar length and more on real world cutting performance. Husqvarna 562 is a massive step up from that little Echo, because it's a pro saw and then because it's 60cc it will cut 2 or 3 times as fast. Put an 18" bar on for everyday use, buy a 24 for occasional cuts where it's handy. You'll thank me every time you sharpen.
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What do you want to do with the 24" bar? I think you'd be better off with a 60cc saw and 20" bar, much more usable and to be honest the lighter the saw the better. I just suspect as a non pro you won't use a 70cc saw all that much, it's pretty physical thing to use for long.
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I wouldn't go above 24", it's a 70cc saw after all. You can cut 2 foot cubes of wood with that which are plenty big enough to handle, there's not really that much point putting a 3 foot bar on and cutting rings in one when you can't lift them anyway. I saw a test once using a Husqvarna 395 with 32" bar, cutting 15" rounds. Two side by side using almost the bar length took more than twice as long as the single round time, so the quicker way to remove wood is with a shorter bar. I believe it's because the saw rpm are higher, cutters engaged better, and chip flow easier.
