Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Stihl 161 T or Husqvarna T535iXP cordless top handle 12"?
Dan Maynard replied to Slad's topic in Chainsaws
Not at the moment. New saws are bound to come out though, over the next year or two. -
I've tried circular saw, not good as the blade pinches and kicks when the pallet moves around. What about reciprocating saw? This blade even says pallet on it. Reciprocating Saw Blade Wood & Metal WWW.TOOLSTATION.COM Cuts thick sheet metal, solid pipes, profiles and wood with nails. Working length: 128mm.
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Does say "for surplus reasons" though - not normal price.
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If you're north of Oxford then Towcester shouldn't be too far? Have a look at Brampton Valley Training, they've been very good to me. Training & Assessments - Brampton Valley Group WWW.BRAMPTONVALLEYGROUP.CO.UK Wide Range of City & Guilds and Lantra Awards & Qualifications Brampton Valley Training & Assessments is an independent training provider based in South Northants, in the heart of England. We specialise in Forestry, Arboriculture, tree surgery and other land-based training. As a leading Lantra Awards & City & Guilds (NPTC) Approved Centre we can offer ...
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Stihl 161 T or Husqvarna T535iXP cordless top handle 12"?
Dan Maynard replied to Slad's topic in Chainsaws
In defence of the Makita, the 36v is not slow, it's similar weight to the ones you listed and i think a bit cheaper. The Makita 18v is slower cutting but much lighter than anything except the baby battery Echo. I like this system because the batteries are the same. If you want to cut fast and do dismantles, and have no other tools to put the batteries in yet, then the T540i is better than the Stihl. -
I'm still not perfectly clear Makita are stopping absolutely all petrol or all petrol in the garden tools range (ie not those forestry saws for which there is not going to be a battery equivalent). Likewise I've seen the notification on Makita site but not Dolmar so maybe the petrol saws will continue in red. Fingers crossed anyway.
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Is that down De Freville Avenue by any chance Ed?
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Sounds like you need to get a reputable local tree surgeon in to have a look, fairly soon. They shouldn't mind dropping by to give you an opinion on how urgent the situation is. Whereabouts are you?
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Agree with above, with so much of this side dead the roots are most likely compromised on this side which is bad for stability. Would it reach the house if it falls that way?
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Just stop emptying the ash, it will build up over the grate. I only take ash out of my stove every couple of months, it melts down with a good hot fire so builds up very slowly. Then take most out but leave an inch or so in the bottom.
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I found that about apples as well.
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Thinking about it you can possibly get a sprocket at L&S because there is a 1/4" pitch option direct from Makita. Only other thing I would add is don't buy the Makita chains because they are safety chains with bumper links, can't cut on the tip or bore so a right pain.
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Panther 8" bar from@RobD at chainsawbars, yes and sprocket which is on his website but tricky to find. Some have said the Panther bars don't last but it's not heavy cutting and has been fine. Its the same mount as Echo2511 so you can fit a MS150 bar with a little jiggery I believe as people seem to do that with the Echo, there is a trick with chain length either one more or less than the Stihl.
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There was a special offer, bought the 36v saw with two 6Ah batteries and got two 5Ah batteries free. Then I bought the bare 18v saw as so cheap. I swap them around, haven't really noticed faster cutting on the 6Ah. I also put 1/4 pitch bar on the small saw, much smoother for small cuts say around an inch, usually use the bigger say for dismantles so suits the 3/8 it came with.
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It's flowering rather than fruit, not sure if that makes much difference. Still feel it's difficult to quantify the risk, I guess we need to do loads of trees and count cases of silverleaf, but of course nobody wants to be in the experiment just in case.
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I have been asked to reduce a pair of cherry trees in a garden. Will be a light reduction, no cuts over 2". All the books say not to do this now because of risk of silverleaf fungus, now it's been a really warm autumn so I think effectively summer is extending, my question is how big is the risk of silverleaf infecting the trees? Do I refuse the job till May? I searched back through the forum but mostly found references to cherries and plums in orchards or growing for fruit.
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I use the 18v Makita on reductions and hedge work, cuts up to say 2" nice and fast but over that it's slowing down. It's great because it's so light, but if I'm dismantling a tree then I take up the 36v instead. Depends what your balance is, the 36v is happy cutting 4" but you will use battery if you do a lot.
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I saw that, may time to get the triple ladder out.
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Do you store it either brim full, or completely run empty? It says in various manuals to do this, a smaller volume of air in the tank is better to reduce water absorption but we also had a thread once about how topping the chain oil after use reduces leakage. My theory heat whilst running warms and pressurises the tank, topping up releases the pressure and you add cold fuel. Saying that I don't think any of my saws would actually be flooded if I didn't top them up, that includes a Makita and two Dolmars.
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Stihl 024 and Husk 245(?) both with same issue.
Dan Maynard replied to organic guy's topic in Chainsaws
Pop the exhausts off and check for scoring, quick test. -
I never heard of that. Pop-down piston has a certain ring to it.
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Maybe, and maybe the worst case is to spend time thinking and arranging work at risk of making or losing a few quid, it's just a business vehicle and you are not in the business of motor trading. When I bought my last trailer I just traded the old one in, could have sold it privately for more but considering time invested, tyre kickers, people I don't know poking round I just thought best get shot, deal done same day and move on.
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When I bought mine I was amazed at what bag of bolts would be for sale at 5k, no project landrovers for 1k any more. I would guess with fresh MoT yours ought to be around 10k. Could be worth looking at seats, mine had brand new seats in and amazing the difference it makes to the impression even when everything else is 15 years old.
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This is brilliant, so much variation that I didn't know existed. Thank you.
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Oregon, Stihl, Englebert Strauss all so basic versions of trousers around the £100 mark, I'd get some of these which are a reputable brand. Chaps are so easy for the saw to pull round your leg and out of the way they are completely useless in my opinion. Also, sell the 660 and get something smaller and more manageable, it will be safer. You don't need a 36" bar to cut firewood even if the logs are 36" to start with, an 18" bar cut from both sides or cross cut then rip blocks from the end of the log will cut pieces you can split. A 261 or 550 is much better saw to start with. And lastly even if you are not doing some training course at least find someone who really knows what they are doing to show you the basics.
