Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Top one could be birch as well, young branches are dark.
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It's not what you want to hear but it needs watering really to get through the first summer. This is the most difficult time for it because the heat increases, rain decreases, and roots are not well established. Can you get there with a caravan water roll type thing? A good soaking once a month would be better than nothing.
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If you are watering it, how much are you putting on? If you dig down a few inches (not too near the tree) is the soil damp? It's got to be a good soaking to get down to the roots, maybe scoop a bit of a hole and pour several buckets full there - people are often surprised by how much water is needed.
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Before we had a dog we used to have a bowl of cat food down in the kitchen, the chickens found it once and from that point on they were always trying to sneak in the house any time the door was ajar. Got quite long memories too. They're now fenced in away from the dog so no longer a problem.
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And I wouldn't get the rope guide as I prefer a multisaver, but either way that cambium saver is limited. Having said that, I'd take a step back and ask why choose a set if you don't know what you need - is this for starting out, rec climbing, to take on a course? The Treehog to me is the most uncomfortable harness I've ever sat in so not a great starting point in any case. Take time and work it out, rather than buy a load of stuff that's not useful.
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.. and second as said above, keep your ear out on local ads / village FB etc. We've got quite a few hens that way and I've also helped move chicken runs which people had got and didn't want any more.
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Ours are in an old shed, I made a bit of a nest box inside. Honestly they aren't fussy about your woodwork skills so just crack on and have a go, you'll get better with practice - it's about being self sufficient after all. The roosting rails in mine are stood on metal bars, when there's a touch of mite I just chuck them and cut a couple of fresh ones rather than trying to clean the wood.
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I've got K&N air filters on my Spitfire which are washed and then oiled, agreed the point of the oil is to make them catch the dust but obviously lot less of it around there.
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Jam
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The NPTC certs don't really include the tree biology that is in the ISA cert. I guess more equivalent here would be level 2 arb.
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I wondered how they work for this reason, I think the tooth geometry is completely different so the sharpening can be done from the top, and because it rubs on the way round the sprocket the raker will stick out and have a chance to be lowered to match. I've not used one but guess it's better than a blunt chain, so for domestic use taking the skill out of sharpening may be worthwhile.
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Mind you, he never has to struggle thinking of present ideas for his wife. Only thing is when she takes hold of the heavy gun shaped parcel she's a shrewd idea what is under the wrapping paper...
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East Anglia, south west corner of Cambridgeshire near to Northamptonshire.
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Most around that field are fine but an older one on the other side isn't looking well - but is that just drought?
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Right old mix round us. This is fairly normal...
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I was hopeful they would sell the Dolmar brand off. I think in reality they haven't invested in enough new chainsaw models over the last 10 years so got a bit left behind.
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Checked that, it's called synthplus but is actually semi synthetic. I'm sure it would be fine, the thing to avoid is usually bio oil because it dries and leaves hard deposits when not used for a while.
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Another property is the change in viscosity with temperature, you will also hear older people talking about thinning down the chain oil with diesel when it's cold. Don't need to do it this with the Stihl synthetic, I think it's pretty consistent hot or cold. Certainly after some years running it I don't suffer excessive bar or chain wear so I think it works just fine even if doesn't have initial appearance of syrup.
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Copper beech tight fork/union question
Dan Maynard replied to Twentyeight Trees's topic in Tree health care
OP didn't say he removed it, but that it has been removed. Slater's the bloke, yes. I'm still not completely on board, I look at the ash trees round here with tight unions and I don't see any natural braces at all. Maybe the theory works better in beech but we don't have much of that. -
You need @outinthewood , although he's been running 592 recently.
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Tempted to buy one of these while I can https://www.fastfix.co.uk/makita-ea5000p45d-50cc-petrol-chainsaw-45cm.html
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Are they still making them though? Stihl are in short supply and more expensive too.
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Blimey, I'll have to come over to Suffolk-shire with a few cans!
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I think you can use a rope, the most important thing is what you tie. I see a lot of washing lines where the cord is around the stem several times and then tied off so there is no room to expand, better to use a running bowline or similar and it will just slide as the tree expands.
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@shavey are you still selling Dolmar saws? Makita seem to be drying up, thought they had stopped production now?
