Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About EdGreen

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I don't get why, if I have done some work myself, I would be charged more? I have piled it on the ground and will take it out to the chipper once I get the go ahead. Doesn't really seem logical to me.....
  2. Hello guys, I trust you're all well. To answer couple questions: 1. No this is not a windup. I just have a different way of doing things, and am willing to tackle jobs most people would not. Higher risk tolerance I would say, higher levels of stupidity some of you would shout back, but hey-ho 2. There were no pigeons or squirrels nesting on the tree that I had worked on. Could have been, grateful for the FYI 3. My only outlay so far has been a £70 Oegon pole saw and £6 on some chain oil. And yes, I stood on the shed (I built it, roof is 18mm OSD3, it is solid), and whatever I managed to reach off it, I cut with the pole saw, before going up on the ladder and using an old corded (yes, corded), reciprocal saw 4. Reason I didn't cut the branches all the way back is that used them to hang tool on as I went up (loppers, for example) 5. I managed to get a good 25ft up, using the branches that I cut as a sort of a ladder. Very slowly, very carefully. It is not that bad 6. In any event, what I had cut and chucked down occupied a bit of space. And I haven't gotten to the thickest branches yet. In this regard, I have asked for a number of different companies for a quote to see what they say. If it is more to my liking, I will let them do it and will help with dragging branches to the wood chipper and so on. If it is still more expensive that I am able to afford, then I will start a new thread asking for PPE requirements! ;)
  3. Hi guys, I thought I'd return to update and / or amuse you. With a 6.5m ladder, and a cheapy Oregon pole saw I made some decent progress. I managed to cut branches about 2/3 of the way up. I cleaned up a good portion of the trunk: CCC IBB.CO Image CCC hosted in ImgBB And those of you who said the branches don't look like much when on the tree, but when you get them on the ground, its a different story 😲 are absolutely correct! BBB IBB.CO Image BBB hosted in ImgBB One key issue is that the tree is leaning at an angle. I tried to demonstrate how bad it is by hanging a cam buckle off a cut tree branch end, as close to the trunk as possible AAA IBB.CO Image AAA hosted in ImgBB Serious question - when I am climbing up it, given the lean, what is the chance the tree could topple when I am near the top of it? I'm not massively heavy, 11 stone, but still. In heavy wind, I noticed that the soil around the tree moves slightly, which suggests to me the roots aren't very strong or well embedded into the soil. If the tree was solid, I wouldn't have much of an issuer climbing it, but given the fact this one is a leaner and seems to move at the bottom in heavy winds is a bit of a concern. View? In terms of PPE, when I go up there I have a helmet, goggles, rubber gripper gloves and a motorbike suite made from cordura which I bought at a car boot. Not the same as your gear, appreciate that, but it is better than ordinary DIY clothes. Any tips appreciated. I definitely have lots to learn.
  4. Here we go: The green one is leaning the most, that's the one I'd like to try and chop down to about 10ft high or so. The others need topping. It is not possible for me to top the others, but I can definitely have a go at doing something with the green one. Might even have a go tomorrow and update you as long as I don't end up in A&E. 😂 No chainsaw, promise.
  5. Hi guys, thanks to all for your replies and comments. Judging by what's been said, I think I will put off buying a chainsaw for the moment. What I plan to do is climb up as high as I my ladder will allow (T bar stabilisation at the bottom and ladder tied to the tree at the top with a 400kg rated cam buckle). Cut down branches with a sharp hacksaw or bow saw (I have both of these). I can probably get about 40% of the way up, at best, it is one heck of a tall tree. Once I have done the above, I can reassess the situation. My only questions at this stage is how would I climb beyond the top of the ladder? Tree climbing spikes look expensive and they will also damage the tree. I am guessing climbing by hanging onto the thickest of branches is a no-no? One of the leylandii is at a lean angle of about 30 degrees as it has been displaced and stunted by some of the others, that one I will chop down to about 10ft and just leave a massive stump in the ground. The others - let's come to those once I done the smaller leaning one! 😆
  6. Hi Dumper, I thought about that, so have borrowed a Bosch branch shredder, I appreciate it won't do much to anything over about 2" in diameter though, will have to cut that up manually.....I guess I need to go for the rear handle saw after all?
  7. I did ask a firm, they quoted £1,300 or so to top them off. Unfortunately I can't afford that from a financial point of view at the moment. I don't know if that is a good or bad price, but I live near horrid London, and usually if you're in or near London, a premium seems to apply to everything. As far as chainsaws go, I was under the impression that the benefits of the top handle saw is that it can be used one handed when up a tree, but should not be used one handed when on the ground (should use a rear handle saw when on the ground ideally)? In terms of tying the ladder, I plan to use heavy duty cam buckles with a break strength of 400kg (made in UK, great quality). Any suggestions on how to tie myself to the tree, welcome!
  8. Hello folks, I have five extremely large leylandii trees out back, which have never been cut back since being planted around 40 years ago. You can imagine how overgrown they are! Neighbours are complaining light is being blocked, so I need to sort it. I've recently been made redundant, so cannot afford the services of a professional. I am in my late 30s, fit and healthy, not afraid of heights. I already have Makita kit for DIY, so it makes sense to buy one of their electric saws. Question is do I go for a top handle model or a rear handle model? I read the advantages and disadvantages of both, but wonder what's more relevant in the real world. (A) = rear handle model https://makitauk.com/product/duc305z 1,100 watts 5.3kg weight with 2 batts 30cm bar (B) = top handle model 800 watts 4.7kg weight with 2 batts 30 cm bar I have a commercial 7.5m ladder with a stabiliser T bar at the bottom, which I will rope to the tree. Plan is to go up the ladder, cutting off various branches on the way up (have watched various YouTube safety videos and the dangers of branches springing back, not wearing the right PPE etc. so not going into this totally blind), once I get as I high as I can I will see if I can top it off. Once I get down, whatever I have cut off will need to be cut into pieces to take down to the tip. With the task in mind, which of these two is the better option for me? Thanks in advance! Ed


Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.