Arrozdoce

I really like that number 1 rule

Work desktop design/image machine 24" screen running linux. Or just the shamesung phone with the forum app. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app

Of corse it is possible to use a pulley with a loop. The only limitation is: you can only use a prussik (french) hitch or a swabish with a loop cord. I would recomend a swabish, tie a prussic in the end of the lanyard and then remove some bottom coils.

Shoe laces?! or some small diameter cord from hardware store. Does not need to be PPE rated. The only force it have to handle is to "break" the frition hitch and push it up. For that kind of system you can even use a mailon or a small binner in place of the pulley if you dont have a pulley: [ame= ] [/ame]

Like steve said. Consider a hitch climber from dmm or a stein skywalker. If you will climb for couple of time it is really worth and you can try a lot of diferent things in the future as you get more skill and knowledge. For the friction hitch I would suggest to try a swabish as a evolution from the prussic. The swabish is very safe and will release easier than the prussik, therefore will be smother to tend. Later you can try a distel, nice release, simetrical hitch and still prety safe/reliable. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app

Got some sirius 12mm for riging. Very easy to work with. Nice stuff. Should had bought some more to make a pulley or ring adjustable saver. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app

I forgot, if you have trouble pushing the hitch you should try a auto tending method with a simple pulley or even a small carabiner. Then you can also use a o-rig system whitch is great for the problem you said. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app

By prussik loop you mean for the friction hitch in your main line? It depends on lot of factors like rope diameter, friction cord diameter, hitches you use (simetric/french prussic?), if you use tending pulley or not... Usualy for 12-13mm rope is sugested 10mm cord but I found 9mm or even 8mm can work same or better depending on how you setup the friction hitch. My sugestion is to get a long piece of 10 9 or 8mm, and make some fishermans and try diferent sizes. Marlow boa is a good and cheap cord to play arround. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app

I've done that a couple of times and never got it stuck because choking. But you have to install it correctly: the big ring side allways go OVER the small ring side. There are some good videos explaining that: Like WesD said, if you can get a multisaver/ajustable is perfect but if not I would go for the srt choke solution, way simple and easy (in my experience tho, i cant judge the tree and situation you are working on). btw, worth to watch this video explaining how to setup and move/retrieve srt and double wrap the lanyard to re-install the main line. Feels a lot safer. Sorry but i don't know how to post videos, i even search in faq but no result.

Iḿ not sure but seems you can't choke the ring-ring saver on the stem or you can't touch the ivy? You can clean (or not?) a bit of the ivy in the stem just to choke the climbing line (alpine, alpine+mailon, alpine+carabiner, bowline+backup), leaving the tail long enough for retrieving or attach a throw line to do the same. Descend srt with a 8 or a HMS biner with a prusik as a back up "brake" just in case you need both hands or something happens in the descending. Which is actually something you already described Adding a ring, mailon, carabiner or pulley in the choking knot makes the retrieval easier.

Less friction? Less kickback? Possibility to cut with the "top" front side of the "bar", on acount of push the chainsaw to the branch, more distance from the cut, chips flying down instead of back? I put a ? because I'm not sure about the reasons. Nice concept tho. You never know till you try

I have some of this in my shop. Did some woodwork with that and love it. Very beautiful color with well defined and visible rings.

I could not agree more! All the limbs you leave in the tree, apart from the fear/psychological factor, they act as a dampener while top is rigged down. About the zipline and side loading, I never saw doing this but I belive if used a pulley on the top and placing a rope for each side of the tree making 2 zip lines (with same angle both), the load would be mostly vertical in the tree (depending on the angles and pulley friction ofc.

Makes sense. Thanks a lot. Some manuals from the manufacturers explain to not to expose ropes to heat/cold and moisture in the storage but nothing about knots. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app

I'm kind of recreational climber, doing some occasional small tree work, I apologise for writing something misinformed/wrong. I think I'm missing a couple of factors there still learning, a bit gear limited tho. btw, some dumb questions I have, seems the right thread. It's about care and storage. For instance, a small rope used for lanyard with a prussic and a distel with pulleys, and a fishermen's in each end with a carabiner, for storage should I untie all the knots? frition hitches and termination knots? It's ok to hang the harness in a dry place with the lanyard hanging on there "ready to work"? ty in advance.

I love these ...as much I hate those dumb, "empty" quotes with a meaningless picture with 14 filters. Ahh I finaly found, a bit old but very related to the forum

Sorry, I didn't explain well maybee. When I say avoid o-rig I mean those situations where it will have some drawbacks. Don't get me wrong, I find the o-rig very useful in some situations but it have some disadvantages like making unable to attach a second climb system/long lanyard in the midhole of the hitchclimber. I was doing this some months ago and it just "drags" the friction hitch side of the drt system, very awkward and unpractical. (Just my opinion tho! I'm still a newbie trying new things)

I find myself using footlocking a lot in drt (just like insrt). Helps with the slack tending "problem", avoiding the use of O-rig, for instance, which have a lot of downsides most of the cases. Or just use foot ascenders, sometimes looks like foot ascenders are restricted to srt use I know drt is slower because of the 1/2 ratio (distance traveled / ropepull) but is also easier. At the end also depends on the size of the tree and the time you have. Is there any problem with footlocking or footascenders in drt? looks like im doing something wrong. lol

I was going to write that I've tried it with a choking simple ring-ring saver but is very limited. That belay/descend kit is awesome but for "part time" works, once in awhile, I use a running bowline or a alpine butterfly+binner to choke the rope SRT mode and a HMS biner with munter hitch as descender (with a friction hitch as backup). I need a 8 or a rope wrench:blushing:

Every time I see this topic on the unread posts I jump of the chair. The curiosity is killing me.

I was going to ask the same. At least for wallnuts and chestnuts ("sweet") could this rube be applied?

Hello! Thank you for noticing and for all the PM help btw Yes I am from Portugal, I lived in Lisbon but after some years I came back near my hometown in the most north west area. I do this treeclimb thing mostly because I have fun climbing and because once in a while I do small jobs in tight places but mostly in my own propertys. Is good to know that there is a treework company in Algarve, I know there are one near Gaia and another in Porto which born from the need to take care of the Serralves garden/trees. Long time ago they contract a english tree surgeon to make and teach a portuguese team. I don't know about much more companies. On the other side I do know a lot of bad pruning cases. A common practice of the local governments about the public space's trees are to just top the trees and leave almost just the main trunk , makes me sad everytime. In a extreme case, in my hometown, there is a big park near the river with lots of big platanus trees were I remember to go play after school (-+15 years ago), 6 months ago I found the trees missing. After asking a friend that work nearby who told me "some limbs were falling and was dangerous for people and the parked cars". Probably dead limbs because those trees were never pruned/cleaned. So sad. edit: sorry for long post and bad engrish btw my forum name is a famous portuguese desert.lel

Can I ask what diameter cord and crab you using? I use 12,5mm safty blue with 9mm or 10mm cord, I saw somewhere using one eye/fisherman between the pulley and other outside but I'm afraid the rope can rub on the fisherman knot. That's exactly why I am considering a skywalker or a pinto, to use like a second line "reduced" to a single crab/atachpoint.

I have a CG fasfit ones that I love for some jobs, never climb with them, guess I have to try. Otherwise I used a mechanix most comon one, "originals" model and is perfect, only problem is they wear fast and the sticking is kinda weak. Common nitrile work goves are just the best price/durability/confort and still give nice dexterity. Also the ones with a more rubber worm textured coating have a lot of grip that, even with a tight fit, sometimes they got caught between friction hitch and rope . The bad side is having them for more than 1 hour, makes the hands completely soaked in sweet.

Hello all, im considering a pinto, a stein skywalker and a simple pulley (moving cheeks) for the lanyard/work position/second climb line sometimes cliped to the hitch climber. I use hitch cord with fishermans knot so I'm afraid the eyes will not fit inside the pinto that's correct? And if I use the fishermans eyes on the side of a pinto it probably will take a lot of space in the carabiner and press the pinto sideways were I should use the pinto spacer (more gear, more € and more bulky setup). Anyone had this problem? A fixed cheeks pulley will have the same problem? Ty in advance