Arrozdoce
-
Posts
78 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Arrozdoce
-
I hope they develop a SRT version of the double gate binner. Just imagine SRT dangerous = DRT dangerous x 2 twin gate biners = 1/2 dangerous Therefore =» SRT x twingate binners = DRT
-
Cool video! Looks like a nice place and a nice job to do.
-
Ty for your input. I will check the 36 echo at a local dealer this week. Still, this makita is too cheap [ame=https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00MPXRIY6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AT7YVPFBWXBL]Makita EA3110T25B - Motosierra De Poda Motor A Gasolina 30.1 Cc: Amazon.es: Bricolaje y herramientas[/ame]
-
I just found this thread and thought about post here instead a new thread. Does anyone have experience with a Makita EA3110T25B? Is a top handle, 30cc, seems light and the price is very low at some online stores. Is the same model as the Dolmar PS311TH. I'm getting fed up of my heavy, unpowered, old and beaten up chinesium saw with "autoUntuned" carb. Starting to have some small contract jobs around here and don't want to fail. Should I save for a husky/sthil instead?
-
Going down means using that friction energy to recharge the battery. Infinite energy. Lol Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app
-
I can agree with that. New england safety blue type is fairly easy.
-
I spliced a used yale xtc (tight cover even when it's new) that was a pain. If I remember I attach the tail to a fix point at bely hight, attach a carabiner to the eye and to the belt. Then hammer the cover with a plastic mallet and/or massage it to the sideways before pulling it. Used ropa + tight cover = pita, but not impossible ofc edit: found it better to give "pull strikes" after massaging/hammering the bury than just "straight pull force", hope it makes sense.
-
I also find the thinner ropes harder to splice, not much but it is a bit tricky. For instance, a 12mm sirius is easier than the 8mm sirius cord. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app
-
Thanks a lot! Keep the good work. I ask because I can't decide if I really need the pulley saver or just the rings. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app
-
Cool pictures. Can I ask 2 things? what is your minimum diameter to have your Tie In Point in a dead tree like that? Can you share a picture of your friction saver? it looks like a pulley saver but with 2 small rings instead of the pulley. looks cool.
-
Okey I just found something In the samson instructions for 16 strand, in the end, for tapering the core and cover tail they say to start the taper at 6" 1/2 from the end. In the teufelberger 16strand instructions they say to taper at 1 fid ( 10"1/2) that's 4 inch difference. I think the samson instructions leave the core and cover tail overlapping a bit more.
-
Thanks anyway. I think I will measure and taper like in the samson instructions again. I stoped in that step. A bit used XTC, what a nightmare to do the crossover. Used ropes no more
-
One small question: Can you guys share how to made the last taper in the core and the cover strands in 16 strand rope splice? I did 16strand splices following the samson pdf's, one got a small "bump" in the area were the tapered cover and the taper core sits, meaning they still "overlap" too much. I can't see it but sliding with the hand I can feel a small bump. I'm starting a xtc I had for a strop and I'm thinking about the samson instructions: there is 11" for the cross over, were core and cover tail overlap, then for the taper they say to taper 6"1/2 from the exit point. That's what people using? Sorry for bad english.
-
I have a 40cc small rear handle oleomac (same as efco). It is a good saw but does not seems reliable like the big brands and could be a pain to find spare parts. I only got it because of a good 2nd hand deal. I used a old top handle (35cc) and it seems ok. I like to check the non-big names everytime I need a tool or somehing the problem is what some people already posted here...they cost the same as "better" saws so for me is a no. On the other hand you can get some makitas/dolmar top handle sub €300. Have to check it someday. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app
-
I never spliced boa but I made a couple ones in a similar rope. I can say the sirius construction (I spliced the 12mm rigging) is easier. And usualy the bigger diameter rope are easyer. Try a piano wire or something like that. I use cooper wire and enven in 16strand it works fairly good Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app
-
New Harness, for occasional use so on a budget
Arrozdoce replied to drinksloe's topic in Climbers talk
I am also considering the treehog copies because of the price mainly. I read a lot of opinions but they diverse from "very hot/uncomfortable and need retightening" to "very good, comfortable and durable". A bit more expensive but very good looking is the singing rock, check it out: https://freetree.de/Singing-Rock-Timber-II_1 I'm gonna follow the thread because I'm looking for a harness too and I don't climb very frequently just like the op. -
Is your saw/scabbard hardly used? It falls when you lean back? or you use it in your leg? I've been using a samurai saw for just a couple of months and never experience the saw sliding out of the scabbard.
-
If it is just 6months old, not even daily used, and its not a disposable item with cheap price and unknown brand, I think the warranty exists for these situations. Unless you make those cuts accidental dropping a chain or something on it. I would check with the store were you bought for sure. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app
-
Fabricating your own lowering device
Arrozdoce replied to colwoodlandcare's topic in Rigging and roping
Lol! I woul pass that only if it is a oz rally wheel [emoji38] Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app -
Fabricating your own lowering device
Arrozdoce replied to colwoodlandcare's topic in Rigging and roping
Hello all. I just finish my first one. I used some bits I had in my cave just like a test. Would this work fine with a rust protect spray paint? Or is worth to galvanize it? Any one tried? My plan is to make a stainless one but kind of expensive. Ty in advance Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app
-
1- a rigging rope (sirius super good, cheap, easy to splice) 2- a nice crotch over the piece you cutting (a small/medium pulley or rings) 3- a fat groundie It depends a lot what you usually do.
-
Things that you don't know the answer to thread
Arrozdoce replied to eggsarascal's topic in The Lounge
Why my friction saver only get stuck past 5pm? Does it have something to do with the butter toast? Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app -
AvE is the man I'm not the abuse type of user, and i think the main factor is how you use and how much time. I find the bosh stuff a bit overprice. Metabo hilti and festool are very expensive, only if you use the tool all day professionally. With that said sometimes is hard to find the long lasting stuff but still not much expensive which is what I usually look for. I really like makita's and how smooth they are, means a lot for what I do. I had a couple of dewalts in a past, 5'' and 9'' and I prefer makita over them. I found them very different from dewalts, hitachis, bosh. They also have decent price and seems very reliable. Hitachi's are a bit cheaper but still good tools imo.
-
Hi all. Just did a e2e splice other day in the teufelberger softline 8mm. Was kind of hard to make the final step, had to repeat like 10 times hitting the splice with a plastic hammer. Anyone knows what would be the minimum lenght of the cord between splices? I end up with a 70cm/28inch cord. Sent from my GT-I9082 using Arbtalk mobile app
-
best tip ever
