GA Groundcare

Take it to a local radiator company and they should be able to re core / re manufacture it for you for a fraction of that cost. You can't really compare mass produced automotive parts to the parts in this / the plant industry unfortunately...

The GM Quad Trak is a cracking versatile machine. The swiss army knife of chippers

What is up? May be able to help you...

Also there is a bunch of welding forums you can browse and get inspired..

With mig its all in the welder setup and that does take some time to learn. I know our mig in the workshop roughly where it needs setting up on 2mm metal, 4mm metal etc before pulling the trigger. Sometimes needs a tweak once started but usually there or there abouts. Once setup mig is a doddle. One of the best things I bought was an auto welding mask. Makes life so much easier and you can still see the gun at point of pulling the trigger keeping it accurate with a hand still free. Make sure your surfaces are lovely and clean, no oil residue etc. A "flapper" sanding disc on a 4.5" grinder does a great job at prepping surfaces. Get two lengths of 3-4mm metal, sit one on top of the other and just have a go. The rewards of a good looking weld is awesome.

Interesting extract... I know 100% that golf courses do not have separate tanks for white "road" diesel on their large fairway mowers, rough mowers, tractors etc that have DPF and then a red diesel tank for the smaller engined greens and tees mowers. Rightly or wrongly, the same red diesel goes in everything.

We have DPF in large ground care mowers already and its fine. Really isn't new tech as such and been in the automotive industry as I'm sure you know for years. Just a 34hp emissions compliant Kubota inc dpf will naturally cost more than a basic bog standard V1105T / V1505 Kubota we see in machines today. Most probably wont be aware but GreenMech actually offer a 26hp Kubota V1105 normally aspirated diesel engine in their Arborist 150 and have done for years. Its £1,000 cheaper at retail and wont need to comply with the new regs as it falls under the hp requirement. Its a popular choice in Europe and they don't really understand why we are fixated on 34hp. I've sold a couple to councils in the past (due to budget restrictions) and I bet half the folk if not told the hp would never notice... I think all of a sudden the 26hp Arborist 150 will become popular.... Possibly down the line in 10 years time you might see a 2018 non compliant machine worth more than a 2019 compliant machine as the used buyer will see it as an easier thing to maintain but technology moves on and we get used to it.... We might look back on it like we look back at having unreliable carburettor engined cars and how we now take efi in production cars for granted! Who knows.

Glad we could help. Ash

If the tap has been left and the float is sticking down inside the carb the fuel is therefor allowed to continue to enter and it could start to run into the engine oil giving you the problems described. Change the oil, remove the carb, strip, clean and re assemble.

The tittle of the post is called track idler bearing?

Check the anvil edge to see if its rounded over or is still a nice angle. Fairly easy to view. Check also your blade- anvil gap distance. You will want 2-3mm between them. Re track removal, yes fairly straight forward, jack up the right hand side, remove the grease fitting which on most tracking systems is behind a little bolted on flat plate in the main channel. Then either put a ratchet strap around the whole track and ratchet it up or get a fair sized sledge hammer and knock the non drive end inwards. This will allow the track to become slack and removed by hand. You can then easily get to all the idlers. To re assemble, stick the track back on, refit the grease fitting, grab a grease gun and keep on pumping until the track is tensioned.

Not saying it is this but seen it on a few chippers or mowers in the past when the fuel tank is lower than the engine and the fuel in the line drains back to the tank over a period of time. You go to start it say the next morning, fires up briefly (from the fuel sat in the injector pump) then cuts out as the fuel lines full of air. On second time of cranking fuel starts getting back up to the injector pump and away it’ll go all day if not stopped for a long period of time. Couple of checks you can do for this, if it has an electric inline fuel pump let it tick away for a minute before starting first time or pump the manual lever pump on the side of the injector pump a good 50 times with an injector pipe cracked/ bleed screw open. If it doesn’t cut out on first start you can fit a one way inline fuel valve, they are a couple of quid online and just fit it on the rubber feed pipe near the engine.

It’s still in the price list the 16hp manual start.

It won’t take 6 litres of oil at point of service.

12 litres!? What machine is that?

Certainly don't discount the GreenMech Arborist 200 Craig.

I’d strip the other side out as there is a fair chance that one isn’t far behind in terms of failure. If it is a complete bolt on axle may be your simplest option.

Yep, 2.5-3mm blade - anvil gap. The right thickness sheet steel is easiest way and safest to measure.

If it’s not on a trailer you can get it to tip with large material, but just peg it down if in a back garden. RRP is 4.6k. Trailer from memory just over 1k. If you put it in the back of an ifor williams or Transit make a locating bracket to hold the chipper in place by the front stand / draw bar. If if you are going to spend over 8.5k on a gravity road tow buy an ex demo / lightly used hydraulic petrol machine like an Arborist 130 and have a 6x9 inch with all the bells and whistles!

You can still hitch lock and wheel clamp the CS trailer... Plus you can lock it to the trailer. Throw on the CS with its drum speed is damn good and no problem firing into the back of your chosen chip wagon.

Probably to do with the war time design rear axle / leaf springs!

I'd go CS100 and trailer, it'll out perform as a tow along with the 160mm x 315mm infeed throat and also you can take it off the trailer, push it into the back garden and carry out all required work there whereas the TW will be sat out on the road side....

^ I did something similar years ago in a defender. I had to pull up and stop on a hill in the wet, loaded trailer started dragging the defender backwards all four wheels skidding about 25 foot. That sure tested my reversing skills, luckily the hill levelled out and came to a stop.

Private / domestic clients you a probably right where you are collecting the cash on completion. It’ll be anything with order numbers or account based clients that take an interest.

Judging by the models he’s quoting he is after something pedestrian. Honda pedestrians do like to have their fair share of gearbox issues, if you can afford to, go Etesia.