Fredward

I would recommend contacting a reputable immigration company in NZ. Rules and short listed skills can change and I found the whole process as clear as mud! Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

By the way, zip lines can put large side loading forces on the stem so something to be aware of if you go down that route Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

The size (weight) of the peice you are rigging and the diameter of the stem you are attaching the block to should be relative. I'd go high if you are unsure. You can rig off of a 2inch peice of of wood if you want, the peice above it will only be small so the anchor will be strong enough. I'm guessing you won't want to go that high as it makes little sense. You shouldn't get into trouble as you are not rigging large bits off of a lateral branch anchor point as often happens in more spreading trees. Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

I seem to remember a scenario in the states recently when a guy died due to a massive failure in a pine tree. His groundies had a friction device attached to the back of their vehicle and didn't let the peice run. It snapped the tree below the climber and he fell to his death. Obviously a combination of factors including size of peice, amount of friction, angle of rope to friction device and probably a defect in the tree. Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

So was the answer that tension forks are less likely to fail? Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

I might price up the 1/4 Stihl cutting gear and see how it compares to the Husqvarna 3/8 0.43. Would love to hear from anyone who has used both. Not having to change drive sprocket would be nice I guess, but in the long run I want what's best for this saw as it'll get a lot of use. Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

And how does it control in the cut with the 3/8? It must be a lot easier to sharpen.. Im sure I've seen 1/4 inch pitch chains on the husky pole pruner, would they be 0.5 gauge then Rob? Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

Yeah ridiculous, at least I can use the bar and chain as a spare for my 540 once I take it off! Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

Thanks guys, I'll try the guys who sell sugi over here, but I'm not sure they'll have it - if not I'll go to Stihl. Does anyone know the part number for the drive sprocket, or is it in this thread somewhere? Excuse my ignorance but whats the difference/advantages of the 1/4 vs the 3/8, if they are both narrower?

Bought a 2511 last week and have been using it this week. Sounded very dull to start with, and was a little sceptical to start with but didn't take to long to open up, must have had 5-7 tanks through it by now. Unfortunately it came with the same bar and chain as my 540xp, I think? 3/8 0.5mm 12inch bar. Very juddery in larger cuts, I have figured out how to approach cuts to make it better, but looking to replace the cutting gear. Talked to my Husqvarna dealer who supplied the saw, explained about the 0.43 gauge chains, he told me he could supply a 0.43 10inch Husqvarna bar and chain.. I asked about the drive sproket situation and he said it would run the same drive sprocket. So does this mean he's talking about a 3/8 lo pro .043 (1.1mm) gauge bar and chain? Is this the one I want or should I head to Stihl for a 1/4 chain and bar? (and sprocket) Sorry all this is a bit over my head.

2mm may be hard to weld depending on type of welder and skill level. Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

I did mine out for 40x40x2.5 for the sides, 25x25x2.5 for the roof. Has a hinged roof so can be folded open too. Has acp panels and is lined inside with ply. Heavier than predicted, strong with chip (doesn't bulge) gets minor dents from tipping logs. Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

Yes I understand Reg's humour and admire him as an arborist, regardless of a difference in approach to work. I do appreciate Reg's down to earth attitude but was surprised to see that he was obviously impacted by someone else's opinion of his work practices! Personally I won't work with people who one hand a saw as I dont want to have to deal with the added risk (as an employer). Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

Appreciate Reg's honesty on the matter, I'm not sure if you really feel that deeply about the subject, it seems as though the blog about being a dummy was taken to heart. I definitely don't think it's necessary to take it personally, and didn't think it was really worthwhile point out some of his short fallings in the second video. We're all adults and can make our own choices about safety aspects in our life. I think how you start out in the industry impacts hugley on how you end up in ten years time. Most of us start out doing things 'by the book' and end developing our own set of standards (usually 'less safe', from an industry standard POV atleast). Starting out with bad practices however is less than ideal. Also Reg I've watched your videos for a few years and I'm sure in one, your line is 'I'm one handing the saw; because I'm a lazy ****er' or words to that effect, but can't for the life of me remember which video it was, even after an hour of looking back through some old videos!! Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

It's an inherently dangerous occupation, but I feel it's foolish to add more unnecessary hazards. I've not been in the game as long as most of you (2years training, 3 on the tools) and I can fully understand that saws were designed for one handed use, and one handed use was standard practice when lots of people learned their trade. I can also sympathise that it's hard to break a habit of a lifetime. I'm also aware that it's slower to use two hands on a saw. There is situations when one handing (not cutting and holding) a chainsaw is the safer option, for me these are rare. To me the productivity issue has little relevance, I'd rather work slow and safe, but for others it seems to be a big deal - I feel the saddest part of the situation is the pressure put on some young guys to keep up by means of using techniques which are now deemed unsafe. I've worked with guys who'd one hand a saw and tell me to never do it, that's better than nothing, but habits do rub off on youngsters. Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

What a joke.. Grumpy old goit.

What happened with the guy you caught? Did he get prosecuted?

I also think it's a great idea to make the trees more ugly, my suggestion was to painted them bright pink.. But then you feel for the other neighbours who probably had problems with the tree but now have to look at it. I think if they managed to catch/prosecute someone, it may deter others, especially after some media exposure. The fact that no one is ever held accountable is little help.

I've found in New Zealand (probably similar in most places) that people either adore trees, or completely detest them. The requests I mostly hear from clients when out quoting tree work are: -Managable (I want to be able to cut the tree back every year without so much as a step ladder) -Tidy (I don't want to see a leaf or twig on my driveway or anywhere near my gutters) So many people would like to sterilise the enviroment totally, until there was only lawn and concrete. Add a possibility of a view into the equation and this is the result. Unfortunately it is just so difficult to prove. I was on a site a few years ago where a large TPO Beech which was planted as a part of a war memorial at a Rugby Club had been drilled and poisoned; apparently becuase it dropped leaves on to the adjacent netball court. I spoke to the T.O who was unaware, but informed me that they had applied for consent to fell the tree (whilst it was still living) but had been refused. They even had the cheek to contact a local arborist to fell/chip it so they could process the logs to sell as firewood for a club fundraiser! Have also seen two Liriodendrons with a gob cut in the front, the T.O had also been requested to visit a property adjacent to the trees where the occupents complained of their view being obscured. But without catching them with a chainsaw in their hands there is little you can do. I struggle to understand how people can purchase properties bordering park/rural outlooks and then be offended when a tree grows next door.

Look forward to seeing that video Steve!

I demo'd a Bandit 75xp the other day with a 38hp(?) petrol engine and it was good. I have a 30hp Kohler air cooled deisel in my current chipper and it sounds hideous.

What about a Petzl Pixa?

I've used washing up liquid and water/broom, washing detergents are designed to break down oils so it does make sense really. I was mortified but scrubbed it for half an hour and told them to get in touch if it was stained, they never did.. I did a quick driveby out of curiosity but couldn't notice a stain, didn't slow down too much mind haha.. I've been told brake cleaner but never tried it. I wonder if this might be more difficult becuase it's had time to soak in?

Im south of Hamilton so might be a bit far away.. You aren't required to have chainsaw boots here, any lace up steel caps are fine. I've imported a mixture of gear in one consignment from the Honey Brothers and overall it worked out slightly more expensive, once duties and GST were added on. And as above, it can be risky importing used stuff, fines for cleaning items (through airport customs) can run into hundreds of dollars.

Looks good, I also looked at that model because of the range, aswell as that seemed to be the popular one, but the BT-S2 had a better waterproof rating. Good idea setting up like that, although always having the mic boom in front of me would annoy me. I will get a 3rd unit to use with subbies, I can set it up (without drilling wires into muffs) just using 1 zip tie in about 3-5 minutes, then cut the tie at the end of the day. It does mean touching someone elses manky lid, which does revolt me. I used mine whilst we were doing some awkward stumps yesterday, it was very useful, especially when we had a couple to do near the footpath as I could tell my mate to stop easily. Only downside to using comms is the clients think you're loopy walking around chatting to yourself. I thought this might turn into another Sena thread - I haven't tried them, and I'm sure the quality is better and the functionality is better, however I doubt it's 6 times better. For anyone who is unsure if they'll suit their work, I highly recommend spending few quid to buy a cheap set. Who knows, if they don't last too well, I might end up with a pair of Sena's.