adw
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Everything posted by adw
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Or the drum bearing.
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Hope it works better than it looks, i will post a picture of the correct tool.
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Not same as the 630 but would fit as long as they have the self tapping screw thread not the m5. Be awre this will increase vibration.
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372 carb on a 390 works? i certainly learnt somthing.
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Carb off a 372XP onto a 390????????why???? the saw would have been supplied as standard with a 7 tooth rim
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Correct there is no Husqvarna equivilant, it was an out and out Jonsered machine, a bit square looking but a cracking little saw, they did a micro prosessor version, not there finest hour, can mail you a parts list if you want.
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A hole in the front of the crankcase is impact damage, not warranty, i would be amazed no matter how much you kick up if they accept that under warranty, the 372XP has been around a long time and is a very strong saw, any machine that suffers impact at the front is going to break somthing, this was not just a twig to do that damage.
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Always used the flex hone with good results, no need for wet n dry/acid or any other chemicals, the flex hone will remove the alloy from the piston and cross hatch the the bore, we have recovered hundreds of cylinders like this.
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Dont use this type of hone, you need a flex hone, they look like a christmas tree wiith lots of carbon balls on the tips, you will not remove groves in the cylinder, however it will remove any alloy transphered from the piston, the lining on the cyliner is nikasil all you can do is polish it not over size it, the odd pitting in the cylinder is quite good for oil retention, but you want no high spots.
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If you can pick up a s/h 353 fantastic saw bullitt proof, HSS still hire saws, they have a fleet of 545 AT machines, go hire one for the day to try.
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There is no base gasket on the 455, there are two rubber seals which could be re used, are you sure this thing has seized? they are quite prone to gumming the ring in ( due to the back of the piston running very cool due to the X torq cylinder ) i can mail you a workshop manual if you wish, the design of the saw means the crank is sanwiched between the composit crankcase and the cylinder base with the bolts up through the bottom.
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Most electromagnetic clutchs fit onto a straight shaft not a taper, so once the centre bolt is out it should just fall off, it will have a key way, it is always a good idea to copper slip the shaft when re fitting.
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560XP and 550XP saws that will not idle usually means they are low on compression, i would be checking piston scuffing or worn piston ring.
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Blocked fuel filter in the tank
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There is a special tool to remove the gear pt no. 530031136, the gear is a resonably tight fit however you do just drift it back on, up to the shoulder on the crank,using the tool, do no heat it up, if you just use a drift and not the tool make sure it does not damage the gear.
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576 Auto tune module pt no. 510115802 £61.45 plus vat
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The only grey ignition unit is for the Auto tune saw, you cannot fit the 372/365 unit in place of this one.
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Its not in the manual because you should not have to do it, it should retact without haveing to kick it.
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The Walbro carb is marked on the side of the body with its model, there was also a change of fuel hose as the original could get flattened when the machine was moving on the av springs which would lean the mixture, the new hose is shaped better to stop this happening
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No, the 440 has .325 bar and chain not 3/8 low profile, and the cylinder is ported differently so 435 1.6 KW 440 1.8 KW.
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Doesnt sound like a spring issue, more like a pulley issue, or the starter cover itself, if the centre post is off center it will jam on the pawls.
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Yes it will go straight on pt no, 501388201 you will just need a bar nut then
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If you have a spark, and fuel on the plug, and it still wont fire, you need to check the flywheel key has not sheared knocking the timing out.
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If the muffler has broken up it is pretty certain a portion of the baffle has been drawn into the cylinder, bite the bullit and pull the cylinder off, its the only way to check, if it suddenly frees up and you start it you will be looking for a new pot & piston.
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I feel there is nothing wrong with the bearing, the cage is there to keep the balls apart, if the cage breaks up it is because it was the way it was fitted ie stressed and loaded up, when you rebuild and engine and do the final tighting of the crankcase screws you need to give a tap on either side of the crank ( copper hammer ) to releave any side loading.
