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Macpherson

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Everything posted by Macpherson

  1. Thanks, I really like your thread, it`s a wee photo insight into somewhere else, nice pics, cheers.
  2. I think that if you want to find your own formula and method for treating timber that`s going to last in the ground that`s fine, but half the battle has to be using imported slow grown northern European spruce or whatever, as per scbk`s post on the first page, rather than any of the shite grown here, it`s about twice the weight stick for stick and imo good to work with compared to the FC weeds that pollute our hills that are good for FA but pulp...........oh yeah, and hillside erosion.
  3. yep, reckon it is, good price too.
  4. yeah Spud, any nikasil bore I`ve done has been with wet n dry / oil, I`ve never tried the honing tool in a blind engine cylinder although I do have a smaller version with two prongs, very good for reclaiming master cylinders, I take your point that a light touch is needed. cheers
  5. Yep, agreed, and even on a cast iron cyl it`s real easy to take off too much so unless it`s just a quick glaze bust a mic is probably needed, cheers
  6. Yeah, Iv`e deglazed using the flexi-hone for many years, fine on a 4 stroke, but putting it into a 2 stroke cylinder at enough speed to do anything will probably cause excessive wear on the tool and the cyl as it hits the edges of the ports, and to use the expanding 3 hone tool you really need to be able to pass it through the cyl to almost the centre of the stone in each direction in order to get an even honing result, not possible on a saw as you can`t take the head off. so it`s a fingers job, it`s only my opinion.
  7. You need to shake them up as the solids settle, used both, no complaints, obviously no comparison to the real stuff but seems to last a few years before it needs another coat, £8 a gallon
  8. Hi, i`ve used it for outside timber a fair amount, same stuff from toolstation, seems quite good, dries in and the stink goes away quite quick, I would think it`s better than smearing your work with dirty engine oil but not as good as the real thing as has been said. Prefer the light flavour myself, think it looks better, cheers
  9. Hi, if you buy a gallon of good quality pure tung oil, which is, [or should be ] the main constituent of all the named products, you won`t go wrong, it`ll make up into at least double when thinned, it`s well worth having on the shelf and is a joy to work with. imo. cheers. Aye and try it with real turps rather than the usual shite
  10. Yeah, rain bouncing up from the ground can make a right mess of your beautiful work in no time, specially if it`s muddy, as soon as mud touches nice new wood it can leave horrible stains, cheers.
  11. Thanks Codlasher, I have a similar project, very useful info on the different timbers and as for the fixings, there`s nothing spoils the job worse as it silvers in than the black staining from iron nails. cheers
  12. Big combi ladder for me, if it`s windy you can loop a rope round it to hold it in place, or extend the stablising bar with a 3"x 2". I`m gettin old too !! cheers.
  13. Hi, google auto electrical supplies and type in "HT connector" it`s a bit clumsy but might do, cheers
  14. Hi, try googling Intra laboratories, they were mentioned by someone on here recently, they sell borax powder by the kilo, and have mixing instructions and concentration details for different applications, also quite cheap. cheers.
  15. Hi, when I got the granberg grinder I did notice that the stones were accurate and good quality compared to some others i`d used, it`s fine with the thread , the diamond ones are on ebay. cheers
  16. Yeah, sorry, can`t find it either.
  17. Yeah,a possible 14,000 -zero in less than 1/2 a second, I doubt if the brake band is the only part that that suffers.
  18. Hi, you should be able to download it as a pdf, cheers
  19. Personally I prefer the teeth to be at least hard enough to ruin an oregon file in no time, after all a saw chain is the only cutting tool I use that is soft enough to file, for example, I wouldn`t want a drill or a chisel that could be sharpened with a file. Imo I don`t think a dremmel type grinder is capable of overheating the cutters, whereas a bit of care is needed with the disc type. Cheers
  20. many older engines had a roller on the drive side and a ball on the other which held the crank in the correct position, however that`s irrelevant when it comes to the 560xp. It remains a mystery !!
  21. I take your point, in many failures there`s no way of telling what happened first but over my time i`ve replaced many bearings due to the state of the cage even when there was no apparent excessive play, not just plastic but bronze and steel also, particularly in a crankshaft situation the cage gets it where a ballrace has been used to control endfloat for instance. cheers
  22. Oh well , just a thought
  23. Hi adw, I take your point , and would agree with the probable reason for bearing choice, but I have also seen the various ways that they can fail, mainly in motorcycles though. Hi njm ,It would be interesting to know the condition of the cages in the failed bearings ie: worn out, melted, roasted brittle or what ? I wonder if the brake being flung on at speed could be responsible for the transfer of a shock load or kick through the crank delivering a "knock out blow" to the weakest link, the cage. cheers.
  24. I see your point, but it seems that a lot of these saws aren`t lasting long enough to get minor this or that`s to mask, and the observant operator is being tricked by the AT when the situation becomes critical, at these engine speeds in a lean burn engine, there is really no margin for error.........imo
  25. hi paul, if it`s any consolation, I had a similar hand injury-operation 30+ years ago, don`t worry you`ll get it back, just get it moving as soon as you can. Are you right handed, makes things tricky, cheers

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