Macpherson

So whether battery or capacitor would the charge controller supplied with the original solar panel kit not do the job ? Just presumed that would be it's purpose, cheers.

Hi, nothing very Tesla I'm afraid for the time being... I've got access to a ready supply of s/h car batteries many of which may have been replaced unnecessarily and can last years just running lighting / fans, etc in a 12 v system. My old workshop ran this way for years and although I'm not off grid, I plan the same again in my new place especially outside lighting, my electricity use is small and I don't want to add to my bills, so this would seem the easy way to go, cheers.

Hi, you don't say what type of timber you want to protect, but prior to any coating of oil, varnish etc.... I always coat wood, whether seasoning or finished, with this to prevent blue staining and attack by pests, it's cheaply available on the usual auction site and 1 kg of powder dissolves to make 5 litres of solution. https://www.borax.com/markets/wood-protection-biocides/ There are many threads on here recommending various different products for sealing timber against the weather, I usually use my own concoction based on Tung oil, cheers.

Hi, interesting thread,..... I'm putting together a similar system to you to keep batteries charged for off grid power, I rarely find anything on Amazon to be cheaper than ebay, cheers. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20W-solar-panel-kit-with-controller-for-camper-caravan-boat-20-watt-charger/122630270712?epid=16015680039&hash=item1c8d556ef8:g:EJgAAMXQwwlSABHG

Yep, I was also interested in reading what folk had to say on this subject as I've been looking into it for some time, hopefully the conversation will get back on track,.... there's a few on here that wreck any thread they comment on by talking complete shite .

lovely job, cheers

Tip of the bleeding iceberg mate,.... you'll live longer if you stay away from anything your GP want's to sell you.......oh!... yeah ..and the cost's already covered by your taxes... How many in house of lords have shares in GSK etc...Sickness and ill-health is probably the best place to put your money at the moment...By design ?

Aye, the problem of plastic pollution is massive particularly in the oceans and recently highlighted on Blue planet II.... I thought this guy's idea could be an interesting alternative approach to encourage a change in attitude for many of the poorest communities on earth. https://www.ted.com/talks/david_katz_the_surprising_solution_to_ocean_plastic

What about a net barrier..I don't know how fine It would need to be but various net sizes are available, I've used this for other reasons but cheap enough. Or maybe paint the edges with thick melted wax ?...cheers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2M-X-20M-Green-Debris-Netting-Scaffold-Garden-Screen-Crop-Protection-Windbreak/352093256217?epid=1113496351&hash=item51fa64ba19:g:qk4AAOSwdU1W87ls

So are they attacking the living tree when it's healthy.. or as it ages and perhaps has damage / rot.. or once it's felled ....and do they go for milled timber that's stacked ? I'll stick with the wasp, I'm pretty sure it can't push an egg through the bark unless it's soggy, ...they love Sitka....soggy weeds

Yeah, had to google longhorn beetles, I don't think we get them here......very similar mo to woodwasp... the larvae get all through the sap wood so in a log of say 18" diameter 4 - 6" can be lost, the last larch I milled was riddled with 1/4" burrows and hadn't been down for very long. While I'm happy with the way that borax cheaply acts as a pesticide and prevents staining and mould.....if applying it topically I can see that it probably wouldn't have much impact on any pest that manages to get past the surface...or is already in there, having said that, I don't think any of my milled timber has suffered after it's been stacked... cheers.

Pity you hadn't said this earlier,.... still wouldn't poison them.

Yeah thanks...... I meant just turn it back a touch from the point that it becomes overly rich to just when you get good pick up when jagging the throttle with as little lag as possible. cheers

Hi, it seems that your heading in the right direction, probably worth stripping and cleaning the carb, not difficult.... but if you've not done it before take pics of each stage with your phone just to make reassembly easier, try not to damage the gaskets [ sometimes they stick to both faces and can get torn ] a stanley blade can help with this. When you find the needle valve there should be a very fine mesh filter in the hole on the other side of the casting from it where the fuel feeds in .... need to watch you don't lose it or blow it away. If you just want try an adjustment, the starting point for both L and H screws is 1 turn out according to the manual I sent you. .. it makes sense to take note of where they're at before you start by screwing each one home while counting how much it turns... this way you can always get back to your starting point. Make sure the saw's warmed up before you start fiddling and also it's good practice to only make 1 adjustment at a time so you get an understanding of what's going on. The ' L ' screw is your first port of call, generally speaking you want to adjust it to the point at which the engine runs fastest and then turn it in just a touch while adjusting the tickover to suit, also make sure the air filter is clean before you start.... it's primitive on these old saw's and I've found that it clogs quickly sometimes..... good luck.

Hi, just once to prevent mould / blue stain, I also recon it's important to brush off any dust first as that goes black quickly. As far as the wasps are concerned there attracted by the resin, mostly to spruce / larch and douglas up here. Although they're to be seen around stacked timber I think they're probably laying in the logs before they get milled if they lie about too long. It was info from other folk on here that put me onto this stuff in the first place..... and although It pays to be cautious when using any substance.... eye protection / gloves... I'm not qualified to dish out safety advice but there's loads of stuff to read online about it...I prefer to brush it on or dip if practical rather than spraying......Lovely maple boards by the way. Cheers https://www.borax.com/markets/wood-protection-biocides/

Nature will do this for you In the natural life cycle of any woodland, why would you want to try suddenly invent ancientness or speed up the evolution of a wood by taking down healthy trees...... apart from anything else standing dead or dying beech are a danger... And from a SSSI point of view .... I take it that Monsanto has guaranteed that the glyphosate won't transfer to the fungi, lichens and other inhabitants.... flora or fauna of the SSSI ?

Still curious....to what purpose ? are the beech already suffering from something ?

Hi, just curious ..what is it your want rid of ? ......

A loss for sure, but the hairs went up on the back of my neck when I heard that the 14th march was Einstein's birthday

If you want to create a standing deadwood hazard...... just add grey squirrels and you'll not have to poison anything..... you'll just have to add time,... which apparently nobody's got these days.

Hi, I had a similar problem with larch and woodwasp larvae, 1 kg of this mixes into 5 gallons of water, I now brush it on any timber that I mill and let it dry before I stack it, mainly to protect against blue stain which works great but it's also got insect repelling properties, I don't know about longhorn but once the timber is stacked It would be real easy to retreat the bark as much as you want and it costs next to nothing..... cheers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Borax-Sodium-Tetraborate-Decahydrate-99-9-Lab-Grade-500g-1KG-2KG-5KG-10KG-25KG/321094621563?hash=item4ac2bb197b:m:mpNzfokOBvQTL1AwYsJjjnQ

In a nutshell.... but probably worth a carb clean, best of luck.

Hi, I use a 012 of about the same age as my firewood saw, it's very similar, I bought it second hand about 25 years ago, and apart from a go at the fuel system and repair of wear and tear items it been reliable....and it's been thoroughly tested ! These wee saws 45 and 36 cc have an intake reed valve which helps them punch above their weight and although old fashioned they're fairly solid . Stihl can still supply most of the parts, and a dealer can get the saw upon the screen, the service parts aren't too expensive ....I don't know the condition of your saw or whether you're handy with stuff... but I've found that over the years these wee saws quickly passed into history and have often few hours on them and can be an easy fix...of course the opposite could be true, but a carb kit and new pipes may work wonders. Don't know if you've already got this info, the spec, all the part numbers and the workshop manual which seems to cover the lot....which isn't always the case. cheers. http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/729d1985b8c9fa8f88256ba20049cef7 http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/009010011WorkshopManual.pdf https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/009/

Hi, are you thinking of something like a motorcycle chain guard... if that's what your after it would be real simple to make out of a bit of flat bar and just drill a couple of holes in the bar to mount it, cheers.

Hedge are hogs getting disappeared by slug pellets. Is the wee woman along the road who puts the pellets down to stop the slugs getting her flowers any less culpable than the bastard who puts out poisoned bait for the buzzards, or marine harvest's sea lice factories, farmers chemicals or the endless FC deserts, or....or...or. Imo it only takes 1 poisoner in any area, whether, unwittingly, deliberate, or corporate to tip the scales of any delicate balance and reek havoc on any of the species [ Flora or fauna ] that are managing to adapt and survive.. or even thrive along side the desperate destruction pollution and and waste of human activity. As far as I can see stupidity is rife these days........................................rant deleted..could end up a drink related derail ...cheers,,.....hic anyway up here they've been spruce martens for about 80 years !