SteveA
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Everything posted by SteveA
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Hi Jon, yeah must say I was a bit miffed, but it did start fine following the first run. Will be interesting to see if it starts okay when I use it again... I've not used it for a couple weeks. Would cost me £'s in postage if I had to send it back to fR Jones, so would rather wait & see how it goes. Cheers, Steve
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Good stuff, did you have any problems on the very first start? I had to pull my 550xpg 29 times before it fired up! ....was fine afterwards. I've only put 2 tanks of fuel through it so far. Cheers, Steve
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Great to hear this
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The 500mm Genki-Tamagari looks like it would deal with the thicker stuff: Gomtaro Sheathed Saws, UK - Silky Fox
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Knot a good place for a knot, but I'd also say the handle looks on the slim side.
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Think you've answered your own question there. With an extra 2k to 3k you could probably find an okay Takeuchi TB016. They are very popular so you'd need to be on the case!
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You'll be enjoying that. Let us know how it starts and make a note of your sequence. Cheers, Steve
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Look at Rocket Mass Heaters mate.... very efficient, far more efficient than any metal wood burners.
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Does the number plate flip over on that truck and turn into a headlamp James Bond style? P.s... Ignore this comment, just noticed the headlights in the bumper. Had a week of Sinusitis, not very switched on. Cheers
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Amazing!
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I think maybe the Cherry logs aren't seasoned enough. I've found even by burning fairly moist logs the fire will still radiate very hot (at least that's what it feels like to our skin) and with lots of heat being thrown out into the room. But this doesn't necessarily mean the fire is burning efficiently enough to stop unburnt hydrocarbons lining the flue. The timbers I burnt came from a house built in 1860.... it was verging on dangerous, explosive! Good question, I'm not sure if pressure treated wood traps moisture in? As far as I'm aware the pressure treatment is done at a specific moisture range/ level according to the wood type. Presumably the majority of moisture would evaporate out of the timber over time (especially when left indoors). But pressure treated timber can still absorb plenty of moisture, so it's not a one way affair. Cheers, Steve
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This chap boils them: Boiling Protocol Update: Tips for Success in Reducing Defects in Green Wood
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Well done for doing all you could and within the law. I'm sure they'll enjoy having a bit of Community Service on their CV's and blagging to their mates *sigh*
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By throwing in occasional moist logs you would be drawing energy (heat) out of the whole fire which can lead to an inefficient burn - over time this could be producing what you describe as tarry clinkers. What do you mean by "builders waste"?.... if it's what I'm thinking; best to steer clear of burning any pressure treated timber. Burning pressure treated wood could also be contributing to producing your tarry clinkers? It can also make some pretty serious crackling & spitting embers! (I've tried this myself) Cheers, steve
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Further proof, cheers
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Your okay mate it's just me being silly
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I don't think anyone's tried taking the police to trading standards, or trading standards to the police; no harm in trying though
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No worries mate. They'll be changing their thoughts when the price of burning hardwood goes through the roof.
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Interesting to hear this, proving that burning wet wood at any stage is going to cause flue problems
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Starving the oxygen supply will always result in more tar build-up; much the same with a car.... starve it of oxygen and it will smoke; hold a rag over the exhaust and you'll see it easy enough! May I suggest trying fully seasoned softwood for a year, and chucking in 10% hardwood....
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Now there's a question. Hmmm, I'm sure I've read something about this, something scientifically orientated from the Forestry Commission, but not sure which document it was in? (there's lotsa docs on all sorts). Could be worth contacting them for a pointer. There's a lot of mis-information on forums, if that's where your customer got his info source from? And I've also noticed some companies misinforming the public about wood fuel pollution. May help, fairly simple to understand : Pdf from Forestry Commission: Wood as fuel end users guide: http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/eng-woodfuel-woodasfuelguide.pdf/$FILE/eng-woodfuel-woodasfuelguide.pdf
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Shouldn't cause any problems at all, so long as it's properly seasoned. Chances are that e.g, oak is more likely to cause problems due to the amount of time it takes to season properly/ high amount of tannins.
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Nice to see the police taking this so seriously
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I did seriously consider getting the 560xpg but decided if I need a bigger saw/bar then I'd want something for tackling big trees & Alaskan milling....ie, a lot bigger than the 560. I went for the 550xpg and have no regrets whatsoever (15" & 18" bars). Definitely get heated handles; others have regretted not doing this. Cheers, steve
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Your dog is "no freakin' way am I getting wet today!" ....That's a lovely looking Beech Silky, reminds me of the big fat and twisty Beeches at Kingston Lacy avenue, Dorset.
