Eddy_t
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Everything posted by Eddy_t
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That's unfair, my crappy grease gun came with a non-heated 560xp! The one I bought before came with a 346xp Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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With the old stihl, if you can get a crank number you can cross reference it quite easily Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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It's a nice pink/brown wood but it's bloody hard as hell, to both cut and work Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Turn the two screws on the right (bar side) all the way clockwise until they stop (don't try to force them) then turn the one next to the H 1 turn anti clockwise and the one next to the L 1 1/4 anti-clockwise, if that doesn't fix it, you need to take the carburettor off and have it cleaned, possibly having a full carb kit which includes the carb needle Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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It's around £15 for a carb kit, but that wouldn't flood the saw, either the mix is too rich or the needle isn't seating right, have you tried resetting the carb? Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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I wonder why they decided to obsolete the manual oiler? IMO the 084 is a better saw than the 088/880 Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Were you using the top side or bottom? And as for standing to the side and the saw getting you, that is all work positioning. I would imagine you're round my age (22), always take the time to assess what you're doing, you were lucky this time, but think, what if you were climbing and you didn't check for close vertical limbs in a conifer? Or cracks on a main limb you're anchored to? I'm not trying to have a go at you, but think about what you're doing, and don't try to blame inanimate objects when you f*** up, it happens to all of us, look at what you did wrong (using a saw without a brake isn't the answer), learn from it, and try not to do it again. Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Few interesting differences between the 084 and 088, can't quite work out the ipl, does it have a manual oiler Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Work positioning is all at fault, regardless of whether the brake was present or not, neither my stihl 090, 051 or homelite VI944 were fitted with brakes before I got them (the 051 has since been retro-fitted with a brake), these have all been caused to kick back, even with the old, slow saws is violent and fast! Even if the saw has a brake, always keep your body out of line of the bar and chain, you never know when the band may snap! One thing I don't understand is how small logs caused it, the chain pulls small logs into the saw, where as kick-back is caused from the upper bar tip, so unless you were cutting in a stack or using the tip, I don't see how it happened? Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Yeah but that A/T crap kicks 200t arse! Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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The software is expensive tbh, £350+ for my local to buy in, unless you get A/T saws in to fix by the load, it's a bit steep! But if it's not the electrics, then anyone can fix it Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Why would a metal handle change anything? The old swede-omatic husky brakes were metal, they just use plastic now for cost... and to preserve your arm and wrist Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Haha, thought it said is, not in Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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The hole should be covered/plugged, as it will put hot air through the carb, which would cause it to overheat Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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If you check his profile, he's from St. Petersburg Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Some of the stihl stuff is awesome, I'm topping trees ATM with my 150t, it doesn't miss a beat, it's light and powerful, as is the likes of the 241, the quality of stihl is so inconsistent currently Wolf man, have you tried Jon mendiplogs if you're selling the 660? Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Buying husqvarna chainsaws, make the hand guard out of metal, move the exhaust outlet? All said and done, stihl haven't addressed these problems, there is no cure Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Sometimes accidents happen, but a lot is common sense Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Let it be a lesson to you! You're lucky it's a POS saw, I think you'd have needed a new face with a pro saw! 1. Never operate a faulty machine 2. Stand to the bloody side when cross cutting and limbing, if you can't read the words on the bar, you're in the firing line! Running old saws taught me that, no brakes means the only thing slowing the saw is what it hits! 3. Take heed of your surroundings, look for kickback risks, if the wood isn't secure, make it! 4. Make the saw kick in a safe manner before using it, you know what force to expect then, some saws just flick, some will rip your sockets apart Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Given an error allowance of 10%, even 22m/s runs the chance of passing through 24 rated trousers, with a further 3m/s like you're running, the saw would only need 11k rpm to reach that error zone, and the saws do run pretty much up to that limit in the wood Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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C1Q S32 Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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You could have one cut from ally with a CNC, rich, and being as it would be fairly soft it'd last a fair bit of time Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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They probably just need the carb, muffler and cylinder cleaning, and probably a new piston, it's quite a simple job to do and will give quite a lot of power back, dropping the base gasket out and using liquid sealant will also up the power. Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Either way, I still don't see the point Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
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Never been one for narrow kerf myself, but my 385 does have the dogs and wrap handle, doing the muffler this weekend Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App
