Eddy_t

Don't use lawn moss killer, it'll stain the gravel and Tarmac! You'll need a path cleanser such as armillitox/

A vast improvement, other than reshaping your face, how are you mate?

1959 was the first year of production for the Stihl contra, 1970 was the first year of the 070/090, you probably have a converted model, same as mine. I would need photos of the front of the crankcase and starter to tell you if you have a later casing, although if you look inside the flywheel area, there should be a part number, 1106 020 2540 is the super crankcase that the 090 fits

It can't see!

I have a 385xp (predecessor to the 390xp) on 36", I've also used a 395xp a fair few times. I prefer the 385/390, which also shares a lot of parts with the 372, so spares are readily available. I also prefer an inboard clutch, as you don't need a piston stop to change the sprocket or bearings. It doesn't affect the handling of the saw that much, despite what a Norwegian ex-serviceman might protest

Saws are very personal, some like big saws with small bars, others like small saws with longer bars. Some like torque, others hold it on high rpm. The T540XP is much faster, especially on a shorter bar, whilst the 201TM is better suited to the longer bar where the torque can be utilised. Both become amazing with a muffler mod!

Unless someone else gets the job of doing it, you know what they're like...

Yes! Used to be an old utility cutter trick to chip or stack willow brash under or by overhead lines. Crack willow requires 1" square to regrow

Really? You're going to suggest them?! The evil empire?

Oh Christ, that's a throwback of an argument! Were you not impressed by how much plastic the 020 had?

Equivalent Stihl is a 211 or 231. 236 is the bottom end of the husky saws. It is also the saw in my display picture. The tree is a 32" diameter 100' tall Corsican pine.

The oil gallery is prone to heat warping, and will eject the oil down the side of the bar, failing that, check the oil breather

It does! The ethanol readily converts to ethanoic acid

Here is a Stihl technical bulletin on where to find the serial number on your ms240/260

That number is a part number, although you're a number short! 1121 is the crankcase number The next 3, eg 791, is a specific part (791 means AV handles) Then the final 4 digit number refers to the direct part, with the last digit being a consecutive part, starting with 0, super ceded by part number ending with 1, 2 and so on

540 v 201 - 540 is faster, 201 has more torque (I own a 201M) 550 v 261 - I rate neither, but put the 550 above all versions of the 261, it's gutless! 560 v 362 - 560 is a flying machine, but again, Stihl has it beat on bottom end pulling power! 372 v 441 - used both, both are excellent saws, I would say not much in it, others may differ but I would say these 2 saws are evenly matched 576 v 461 - Stihl wins this one, much greater bottom end and pulling power 395 v 661 is difficult to compare, 395 is normal 2-stroke, 661 is a strato. The 395 also has a larger displacement (marginally), but is supplied with silly bars. I feel the 395 handles and pulls better, but for ease of use, the 661 has it beat all day. You could have compared the 390xp here, which whilst having less torque, has a better top end, is more ergonomic (IMO) and with a few mods (carb, jungle muffler) will match pulling power happily. 3120 v 880 - this is the only husky I have no experience of, I prefer that it has a manual oiler compared to the 880, but the 880 is just power! Yes, I know you said to just focus on power, but how a good running saw handles and where on the rpm band the user will sit is just as important. A light handed user cutting softwoods all day wouldn't want a lower power banded saw, likewise, a heavy-handed hardwood cutter wouldn't want top-end power band.

That's very low compression! Have you continued to pull the saw over until the gauge stops increasing?

Judging by what appears to be a layer of dust, start by replacing the rubber bits, fuel filter and a carb clean.

Have you removed the spark screen from the muffler? Next will be to remove the muffler and check for coking around the port and general damage to the piston. If all looks fine there, then you'll need to work from the intake end, have a dealer reset and update the carb, check fuel lines, intake boot, etc, you know the drill, you've been a member on here long enough!

Sent bud

Pm me your email mark, I'll send you the workshop manual

Having read through all of that, you need a larger saw, around 60-70cc. The 357 is a nice saw, fast, light and powerful, the 365 is a good large saw with plenty of grunt, it'll happily pull 18-24" all day, with the possibility of sticking a 28" on it if needs be. Oh, and it's only 10 minutes dremeling away from a 372xp if it's the newer x-torq version.

Yup, ferrous oxide, still a salt.

I don't use google, I can still remember my A level chemistry, it was only 7 years ago! The reaction releases hydrogen, oxygen and water vapour depending on the speed of the reaction, but it's mostly water vapour, as the compounds are 6HCl and Al2O3, producing AlCl3, and 3H2O

Any metal plus a base compound will produce a salt, rust is a salt, but in the case of hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide, the product is sodium chloride, which is normal table salt. Hydrochloric acid is probably best for cleaning cylinders up as it only produces aluminium chloride, which isn't much of a hazard in the low quantities found in piston transfer.