Eddy_t

A gransfors bruks axe, although I don't know which one

It wasn't aimed at you per say, more the predictability of advice on arbtalk. Look up any 'what saw for a beginner, homeowner, land owner, etc.' and after a few posts it's always chainsaw course, small pro saw, then a slightly bigger one, until it reaches 661 or 395. A prime example of this was a member called female arb, or something to that effect. Her partner is an arborist and she wanted to buy him an axe for Christmas or his birthday. Anyway, she put up a posed picture of her in a pair of chainsaw trousers and a nice, tight top, whilst holding a 660 aloft in a little tree. Half of us appreciated how pretty she was, made a few innuendos, the other half found those jokes offensive, started bleating on about not wearing a helmet and then 'you should do your cs30/31 course', she was only after an axe! Remember, millions of people worldwide use chainsaws without tickets, most never hurt themselves. If the OP reads his manual that came with his 211, it covers maintenance (other than sharpening), basic felling and crosscutting, and the kickback zone of the bar. Stihl do another little hand-out book on sharpening. If there was a course on chain selection and sharpening, that would be worth doing, as 50% of professionals struggle with that! (Note, if anyone now comes up with such a course, I want 5% in royalties, it was my idea first ) In regards to the comment about I should be a sales assistant/advisor, I have used and worked upon most readily available saws by the 2 main brands (exceptions being the ms661 and 3120xp) so yes, I would be suited to that job, and have been offered such jobs.

It's a red 357xp, so the usual, seals, carb boot and fuel lines!

3hp should pull 18" no problem. Think you need a carb kit and a retune! How big is the saw? 65cc?

It's more of a mouthful than 'panic fruiting', but like panic fruiting on trees, it's a reactive fruiting to less favourable conditions where the tree may die, so it tries to continue its genes.

The OP is asking for advice to SUIT HIS NEEDS, this is a chainsaw forum btw, how many 'arbs' can repair equipment or modify them to the level that spud can? There's also a homeowner forum, log burning, milling and competitive climbing forum. The OP is not a professional, therefore doesn't require professional courses or equipment.

It's not what the OP wants to hear, but that's likely the case. I fear the original survey was dumbed down a little too much or stevie wonder surveyed it. If you applied highway and utility clearances to it, you don't get much tree left.

I see a basal cavity, dead roots, reactive growth from one union, crown die back (not near the line), heavy limb inclusion, discolouration that could be bleeding canker and possibly a girdling root, as there appears to be no basal flare on one side. That's from seeing a picture and not investigating properly... It's not all I can see either, but as there are ribbons wrapped round it, I can't make out how bad the reactive wood that goes from the bottom upwards is. And finally, to answer why they haven't fitted new lines through the tree, that pole is an 'open point', it's a separate circuit!

1. Yes they do, it's a conservation area, they notify the tree officer and IF he/she has objections, they take it further. 2. No pictures yet, you're questioning a statement about the health of a dangerous tree (yes! It's dangerous, it's got a powerline through it!) by a surveyor, I don't know what you mean by rigorous and academic study, these things are dumbed down so non-tree people can understand them! Chuck in a few technical words and a picus scan and the tree would have gone by now! 3. That's good that they're getting a second opinion, but have you considered that the next one may notice more faults? Especially if the utilities cutters get there first and knock a lovely hole through it?

Ah it pisses me off, EVERY thread like this was the same at one point, homeowners ask what saw, answers are cs30/31 course, and a pro saw, then advice on buying a larger saw! I'm waiting for the 550, 560, 372xp's suggestions followed by the ms461 and 661... Oh, final bit of advice for the OP, which ever small, cheap, light chainsaw you buy, don't bother with a 'tool-less chain tensioner' they're a silly gimmick, and snap as soon as you look at them, get a bog standard one and check your nuts

Gives a nice cut on connies though. The HS81R doesn't give as close a clip as the HS45 as the teeth are further apart. For this there is a HS81T. But, that said, the 81R is better for hedges with broader leaves or thicker stems (such as holly and laurel). I haven't used the husky, but I know it has better AV, so a better choice if you're cutting longer hedges

There's always one! Do you suppose electricians suggest you do an electrical course if you change a light fitting or a plug socket? All the videos on how to sharpen a chain, dress a bar and fell a tree are online. You need to learn a normal felling cut, and I'd reccomend the Danish pie felling cut, as it eliminates the two you'd learn on a cs31 course. Obviously wear chainsaw trousers and boots and a helmet, keep the saw clean... Blah blah blah, the usual crap! Buy a felling lever and a high-lift wedge, these are damn useful! Oh, and run GOOD 2-stroke oil (jaso fd), the Stihl blue stuff or aspen, ignore what the dealer suggests, even the Stihl red stuff!

Yes, a smaller guide bar will cope, but you'll have to cut from both sides. If you go with Stihl, you'll need an ms211 or larger, likewise with a husky, I'd recommend a 135 or larger, as you want a 35+cc engine.

Tree probably shed an included limb in a heavy downpour, which swiped the overheads, and now the village has been took back to the dark ages in all honesty, he's probably looked at the tree properly, referenced the surveyor report against it, and realised the tree is fubar, then decided to let the thread die.

25" .063 D033 mount (large Stihl) Is it a hard or roller nose?

If the compression is too low, it won't run at all

Pity so many company owners can't manage one, let alone both! Speaking of the latter part of that statement, how're things with you? Looking after you better yet?

There's tree surgeons everywhere but everybody wants staff. But on the opposite side of that, nobody is willing to have a trainee.

75% of parts interchange with the 070/090, it's only the covers, muffler and air filter that are NLA, it's also very easy to convert into an 070 or 090 depending on the crankcase

There's a husky 128 model, the LDX, RJ or C models are loop handles.

The new 201 is closer to the metal 020 than 200, with more bottom end than top end

The m-tronic model has a complete different feel about it.

Muffler outlet is the same size, so you might be quite correct there

Google 248RNDK095, can't remember the website name, but it's the only one in the UK that sells them. Decent price too!

New 201M is miles better than the old model, no bog off idle, and the throttle response is fast. Arguably the 201 isn't as fast as the 540xp, which is receiving a new belly pan, fuel tank and av spring soon.