Eddy_t

Yes, compression reading was very good! Wonder what it would be with a liquid base! With rpm that low for a 60cc it must pull like an old Stihl! Pity 24" in K095 is so damn hard to find in the UK!

Bugger, that I suppose is a standard size for both, I guess the 6100 also runs 3/8 chain? Max rpm around 13.5krpm? I suppose it literally hinges on whether the OP is likely to be doing work to warrant a smaller or larger bar! Out of interest, what's the mount pattern of the 6100? K095 or D009?

I'm the wrong side of 95kg bone dry! Just as a side note, the 390/391 are the same size and around the same weight as the original 365, the current one being a few cc more, but converts easily to a 372. I have a husky 362xp, it's the same crankcase but small bar mounts, I'll be using that very soon to destroy trees on a daily basis. At the end of the day, it's all down to how big a bar the OP wants to be able to run, and if he minds an extra kilo or 2.

Hydrogen gas! Hydrogen chloride is what hydrochloric acid is! The chlorine reacts with metal to form (in the case of transfer on the cylinder) aluminium chloride!

It's a 25cc strimmer! The OP shouldn't be blitzing thick bramble and whips with it!

Stihl: electrics, clutches, av mounts, oil pumps, carbs, fuel systems and air filters... Makita and dolmar are the same company... They have their problems, I just can't be arsed to trawl arboristsite to find them. Echos definitely have faults, once again, as I don't generally work on them, I'm not trawling AS to find the common faults. And I think about 3-5 people use solo on here, so cross-referencing is the only option again.

Why bother with a topper, unless you're going to climb or use a mewp? 10" bar you'd be better suited to the ms150

No, it's the tendency to use a top handle one handed, which is why sales are restricted.

Very similar, but muffler is more restricted, they share the same chassis numbers. 193 has one hell of a bog off idle due to the restriction!

The thicker the line, the tougher it is. There's also shaped and cored lines, which have different properties, but if you're just using round stuff then brand doesn't really matter.

Just download the English version of the Stihl U.S. Site

After all that, I bet you feel a right twonk! Makita oil is tailored for the bar design, which uses the same patterns as husky, utilising a large feed hole in the bar. The D009 on large huskies actually stands for 'Dolmar pattern 009', hence the thicker oil, whereas Stihl uses a smaller feed hole and a shaped drive link to distribute a lighter oil. The channels would have just thrown out the oil as the cohesive properties of the thicker oil wouldn't allow it to spread as far. The comparison you made earlier with honey vs washing up liquid on a cheese grater was fairly accurate, where the solid drive link of husky, dolmar or Oregon would be a more solid object pushing those fluids about. That, and the oil may have been old and stale, causing it to be gloopy

Been a long while since I've posted actual repairs on here, but today's list makes up for that: 5 ms200t's, retuned, one had a new kill wire, one a new carburettor, 365 to retune, ms260 repaired, just waiting on some small parts, brushcutter with a sheared handle bolt. Used a drill to push the sheared screw deeper into the threaded plug so it could be removed and the bolt removed from the underside. 346 in need of new fuel lines and carb kit. Couple of shagged 261's where bearings have eaten the clutch side crankshafts.

Oregon 95 is .325 chain, .050 gauge (narrow kerf) Oregon 91 is 3/8LP, .050 gauge

That's a difficult comparison, 60cc vs 70cc. The husky is much larger, with a higher torque output and is better suited to pulling a larger bar, whilst the dolmar is smaller, more nimble and drops more readily onto a smaller bar and is better for more day to day use.

Have we completely glossed over the fact that this tree is through the conductors and the tree survey suggests that the tree is of poor structural integrity, there are signs of die-back and it has leaf miner? Until photos are taken of the unions, the dead spot and the crown, it's not worth offering advice on retention of the tree. Google street veiw is over 5 years old, in the photo posted earlier there are no signs of leaf miner in the photo, no dead twigs and the tree is in flower! Given the growth characteristics of horse chestnut, which tends to have a tear-out problem, a weakness to pathogenic infestation and a fairly rapid growth rate, amenity value is second rate to target safety, which was stated in an earlier post that children play under a potentially live (especially in this weather), structurally unsound tree, which is going to have as a minimum 3 whole meters cut away from the line passing through its crown. That is a legal requirement, it even over-rides a preservation order! It'll look crap! Let it be felled and have a nice copper beech or oak instead!

Some oils are thicker than others, I find Oregon or similar perfect, Stihl oil is like piss, far too thin and runs out very fast. Not familiar with makita oil, but using the word honey suggests it's far too thick, drain the oil, swill with petrol and try a different, thinner oil

Probably the reason given by mesterh, but also it can be due to scheduling shutdowns, as DNO's are restricted by law on how many outages they can have in an area at one given time. Stringing the line through that tree would be more difficult than over an open area. If the tree has already been permissioned then the DNO will wait for that shutdown for tree work before replacement of the conductors.

Of all woods to test on, oak! It absorbs oil! Have you turned the oiler up? Have you revved the saw to see if you get a line of oil splatter off the bar tip? You say it looked dry, it should only be a thin film and not a river of oil in the bar and on the chain... Photos of the chain would help!

Wrong! Whilst the ABC is rated as effectively insulated, it still requires a clearance to be cut around the line, to allow for wind sway and heat sag, whilst preventing rubbing of the conductors against the tree. Reference section 5.5 of ENA G55/2 or S7.5 of ENA G55/3 And ENA TS 43-8 & 43-12

That statement isn't the flippant, throw-away comment it appears to be!

Shouldn't that be 'buy Husqvarna chainsaws'?

Once you've tried a ported husky, you'll understand

Don't care! It also states that anything other than Stihl oil should be ran at 33:1! Remember, all the information on how to run in an engine hasn't been updated since old Andreas marketed the BLK blitz. Back then oil was gloopy and ran at 25:1 or worse! Run the engine at full revs in timber! Anything less over-richens the mixture, causing severe coking and glazes the cylinder, meaning the rings don't bed better, decreasing compression and therefore power! Do as you are told by people who IMPROVE chainsaws!

Yes, do not run at half or 2/3 throttle! You'll glaze the bore, then it'll run like a complete turd! Run it like you stole it!