Stompy
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Everything posted by Stompy
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Cheers for all the comments guys They were not for me, was a job for a client...... I wouldn't say I made good money. After I'd paid the apprentice, workshop maintenance, electric, timber, fittings, tax and all other bits and bobs there never seems much left for me. The whole job (single door, two garage doors, all frames, a window and fitting) took me and the apprentice 2 weeks. We were on and off a bit though....... and drank lots of tea.
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You could have ago yourself? I built my own using Squarespace.......... No need to know much about website building, it's all drag and drop.
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A couple of pics of some doors we recently made and fitted. These were constructed from locally grown, felled and dried Oak. Finished with a slightly tinted 20% sheen external laquer. The garage doors are 2 m high x 1.5 m wide and 60mm thick..... my back felt every kg the day after fitting. The single door was light as a feather in comparison. Got them fitted just in time as we had 30cm of snow 2 days after.....
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For a general purpose set of joinery chisels you can't go wrong with Marples. The splitproof yellow and red handled ones. The steel on the newer ones is not as tough as it used to be but they still take a hammering (excuse the pun). My old man had a set that was used on site everyday for 20 odd years and I still use most of them now although some are getting a little short. I also have some Japanese Oire Nomi which I use for cabinetry but also go gentle on them compared to the Marples, they just feel more delicate but they are a more refined tool and take a dangerously sharp edge. Worth having.... Used some Narex chisels and wasn't to impressed, just didn't feel right in the hand and didn't think they held an edge very well. All personal preference though........
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So what are your business plans/ambitions for the new year?
Stompy replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
Expanding the export side of our little business focusing more of new sawn and reclaimed timbers. And earning more money so I don't have to work every hour of the day and can sped more time with my girls (wife and 9 month old daughter ) Also have a new (to me) 32" rip saw to install and a mobile sawmill sometime in the spring. Also get more heating and insulation in the workshops, was minus 18 degrees the other night and didn't get above minus 5 during the day for a week or so. Not fun when your fingers stick to the beds of the machines. -
Thanks very much All done myself on Squarespace, easy to use and pretty cheap. I'm going to have a look at your website when my little un has stopped slapping the keyboard gone to bed...
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I export timber from here in Croatia to the UK so not sure if my prices will be relevant at all...... I sell minimum 2 cubic metres per order and prices given are for air dried stock, 1st & 1st/2nd class. Delivery included in that price Oak : £600 - £700 per cubic metre £17 - 20 per cubic foot Beech: £500 - £600 per cubic metre £14.5 - 17 per cubic foot Cherry: £500 - £600 per cubic metre £14.5 - 17 per cubic foot Walnut: £600 - £700 per cubic metre £17 - 20 per cubic foot Prices do vary depending on where I source it and in what quantity. To be honest most of my business revolves around reclaimed Oak for which I can get better prices then for new sawn dried stock. In the UK I used to buy Kiln dried Oak 27mm for £24 per cubic foot and 50mm for £28. First class, pippy or character all the same price. I did buy a lot though.
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One we have recently finished....... the summer out here was so wet and rainy that it was put of for so long, thought it was going to be winter before we got cracking. Luckily we were blessed with a stunning sunny autumn. Anyway it was 150mm x 50mm Oak rails fitted into through mortices in the 125mm Acacia posts. We had all the timber sawn at a local sawmill and cut the top chamfers and mortices in our workshops..... not a fun job on 185 posts. We also made up the Oak gates bespoke to fit the gap..... There are more pics on our facebook page. Like us if you like and we'll like you back
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Fair enough if that is what you think you could do in 4 hours to a professional quality. And could get good quality dry timber that cheap. Just saying be realistic, charge what you are worth and allow enough time for the job. 5 minutes of oiling is not going to produce anywhere near a decent or hardwaring finish, you may as well not bother.
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Don't pay yourself much then..... There is a days work there machining, jointing and finishing plus all your overheads. Not to mention collecting and sorting material. How do you run a workshop and business on £80 a day? Best bet would be to get a Beech or Oak block worktop on Ebay, cheap as chips and made properly with endgrain finger joints and come in a small sizes for small jobs.
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Thanks for all the info...... I,being a bit of a tw*t, listed the make wrong..... It is a Dai Shin.... I believe they are not the same company as Shindaiwa. Great big Kawasaki engine on it and it has been bullet proof for years. Love it and really want to get her back up and running.
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Stunning work, how you hollow those out without them exploding blows my mind..... a real showcase of talent. Good to see the use of natures organic creations too. The knarly bits and twisted limbs always produce the most stunning grain patterning and colours and you make very good use of them. Top class work
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Hi Guys Wondering if any of you can help. I mashed the gear case (the angles section near the head, Think that's whatyou call it ) on my Shindai SBC 282 brushcutter..... the gears have had it and it's is not fixable. I'm having trouble finding any info on it let alone parts dealers. Any of you kind folk know where I might be able to get a new gear case? Cheers
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Hi Guys Wondering if any of you can help. I mashed the gear case (the angles section near the head, Think that's whatyou call it ) on my Shindai SBC 282 brushcutter..... the gears have had it and it's is not fixable. I'm having trouble finding any info on it let alone parts dealers. Any of you kind folk know where I might be able to get a new gear case? Cheers
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Yep, bit of a waste of time building a fence out of it..... better to save for internal projects or those protected from the elements.
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Awesome
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Our thoughts are with you and yours, I cannot think of words to say....... All best wishes for the little uns recovery.....
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They look amazing How you you transfer the image onto the wood or is it freehand drawn?
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But a Biscuit jointer is far more accurate, quicker and can be left set up when you need to use your router...... I'd go for a biscuit jointer over a dowler every time, biscuits give you more accuracy and a little play in case you need slight sideways adjustment. Better still would be a Domino but then you are talking big bucks but they are great bits of kit
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Beautiful work and craftsmanship....... do you have a website?
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Prob not what your after but 'The Complete Japanese Joinery' is great, kind of what your after but for Japanese buildings.... as the title suggests Other than that 'Building the Timber Frame House: The Revival of a Forgotten Craft' by Tedd Benson is pretty good. There is another, considered the timber framers bible in America but I cannot remember the name at the mo.........
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As above most probably Oak. Osmo exterior Oil if ok but expensive and overated in my opinion. You'll end up refinishing it after an English winter. You want something a little heavier than an oil. A varnish would give a much stronger and long lasting fiish than an oil. A marine varnish would be perfect, something like International Goldspar. Comes in a range of sheens and is tough as nails.
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Only really good for wood turners as the lengths are all pretty short and the diametres not great. More effort then it is worth really......
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I can second the above, used to use them a few times a week when I was living and working in Lincoln. Has most stuff in stock and will cut to order for you. Ask to speak to Karl, he's a grumpy git but he'll sort you out with something to suit your needs Tell him Tom & Eve say Hi
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Isn't Danish oil a wiping varnish to?? What about a Marine spar varnish? I think it is made from Tung oil and resin. Used to use it on Teak deck restorations when I worked in the marine industry. Come is various sheens fro 15% (matt) to 90% (high gloss) so plenty to choose from.
