Stompy
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Everything posted by Stompy
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Great stuff but there is no way I have a proof of purchase........... I still give it a go.
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Any of the above would be fine, it's not a high stress joint. You could straight glue and underpin, screw and plug or many other methods. Straight mitre with a biscuit is prob the easiest.....
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Nice, looks like some cracking timber
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Second that............ What is this about free battery replacement?? I have a couple of 18v Makita batteries that have mysteriously died. Saying that I swear by the drill and driver. Had mine for 4 years plus and still solid. Had the impact driver which was a great bit of kit but got nabbed off site, still miss it for some jobs. Screwfix have some good offers on but be careful, they often look a good deal but only come with 1.3 amp/hr batteries which are tosh. The batteries are where the cost is. I also have some Bosch 10.8 volt li ion kit which for the size is great, plenty of power and useful for tight spaces and when you simply don't need the power of the brutish 18v Makita. They do a good range of useful tools to and you can pick them all up new bare for around £50...... well worth the money.
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Nice work there, looks great Got any clearer shots? The figuring on the legs looks beautiful
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I would suggest milling to the size of the finished thickness. Resawing can throw up problems in tension release in the timber. From boards that were dried flat when resawn they can end up rather far from flat both across the length and width. Also your drying time is reduced if you mill thinner thus a quicker cash return. The most common thicknesses I would buy both for my own use and resale in the UK are 1" & 2". These cover most uses in furniture making although as stated above some 3" & 4" is good to have in stock.
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Cracking stuff, love the wine rack. One suggestion though, use a bigger lump of Yew..... 4 bottles is simply not enough to have on stand by, especially in this house
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Nice job, a big fan of Elm....
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Stunning bit of Burr there... When I have worked with burrs before and have wanted a dead smooth finish I have used hard wax fillers to fill any small holes. You can get packs of many different wood shades and they can be mixed to get the right shade to match. It is time consuming but you can pretty much blend all the defects and little holes in so you would never know they were there. You just need a soldering iron and a scraper. Great stuff and will take most finishes on top to. Assortment Hard Wx 20pcs | Surface protectors and coatings | Würth UK Limited
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I usually put a groove all the way around the frame and have tongues all the way round the T&G boards. I then fit the boards during the glue up of the door, fiddly but the most secure way of fixing them as there is no chance of them lifting and stops any cupping that may occur in the boards Screws and plugs is a good secure method, one in the centre of each board to allow for movement. Pins work to but not as secure. As for spacing I usually go for about 1 to 1.5mm between the boards. It is also a good idea to put a finish or preservative on the tongues and in the grooves before fitting to protect from any moisture ingress. You have to use your judgement on how much to allow for on the groove for this though.....
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Yep, this is pretty spectacular stuff...... got a sample but have been offered nearly 2 cubic metres. Thought you might be the man in the know as it were...... Bad picture of it below. Looks perfect for turning although might be best to keep it in planks rather than chop down for blanks.
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Cracking work there mate. Have you ever used or turned Black Poplar?? Got hold of some the other day, it's almost burr like, beautiful stuff. Just wondering if it would be good for turning??
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Half of the Croatian population live and work in Germany, good cheap labour for ze Germans. Never heard of any bandsaw mills be manufactured over here although a lot of Croatians make their own...... pretty lethal looking things usually run off of old car engines and using parts from the thousands of industrial sawmills that were scattered across Yugoslavia. Sounds like an interesting trip, good marketing technique him showing you his LT40
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Yep twelve foot is plenty for 90% of applications. Difficult to transport after that and always cut down in length anyway. Cracking job there mate, stunning colouring on it. What thickness are you milling them down to?
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Ha I wonder how many people will........ I was almost climbing on the chair to get a good angle on it Cracking piece of timber that, great colouring and grain pattern.
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Built this for the owners of my workshop space a couple of years ago. Cedar roof shingles and waney edged Larch cladding...... Did it in the middle of winter, couldn't feel my hands for days And a complete barn re frame and clad..... 22000 paslode pins went into this
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Hey guys, hoping you might be of some help....... I have been offered some very large Elm beams at a very good price. The species, I am assured, is Russian Elm. I really don't know much about it being used to Elm's native to Britain which I don't believe this is. I'm looking to have them milled down into planks, maybe make up some flooring out of it. Any thoughts on whether it is suitable or worth it? Cheers
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Go on tell us who makes it then.............
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About <------ Kilby timber Works out of my brother in laws farm. Might be able to help, give him a call
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I'd go about 25mm for your sticks and try to use the same wood and the timber you are stacking to minimise any grain staining. Looks like you got the hang of it though, cracking job mate.
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Have a mate in London who did some work for Rebecca Loos (not that famous really), said she was very, errrr, friendly
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Really like that, you've done a cracking job. I've got a green man on the front of the house, think he is covered (and seems to be chewing on) Oak leaves......
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Any figuring on the Sycamore?? Pics would be great.....
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8 1/2 foot x 20 inch is pretty huge and I imagine would have a fair bit of weight to it. Might be worth looking at pallet shipping. I used to use Palletline when i sold bits and pieces of machinery in the uk. As long as you have access for a 7.5t truck and can get hold of a pallet this may be the cheapest option. Your dimensions would make it a double pallet so around £60-70 I think. Your limited to about 800 - 1000kg on a pallet so you should be ok
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I suppose it does look a bit like that Dornier........ No intention on my part. Was good fun to build, a bit fiddly in places but better than plastic toys for the imminent little un :-)
