Stompy

Thinking about it massive wide boards are not actually much use are they?!? Difficult to handle, troublesome to dry flat, need space to store and for long term stability in use they need to be ripped down anyway. From my point of view they would need to be ripped down to fit through my machines anyway and I could't handle these boards on my own in full width. Useful I guess for big table tops etc.... and the bigger the machine and the bigger the cut the better, we are all big kids really Just out of interest that autotrex wouldn't be able to be towed on a 3.5t license??? It being 2.8t and the whole train not be allowed to be over 3.5t and the trailer not being heavier than the towing vehicle? Have I got that right?

Bet their home insurance quotes are pretty scary.......

Alot of money but looks like a cracking bit of kit......... anyone ever used one?? Mobile bandsaw not woodmizer | eBay Proper width 4 inch bands and can cut a massive 4'4" diametre...... it's a beast. Weighs over 2500kg so would need old or trailer license to tow. Is it worth the money compared to smaller cheaper mills?

Looks cracking mate, great finish without using any actual...errr ....finish. Nice work

Snowy, minus 5 degrees but sun is out and it's dry...... lush.

Definately worth milling up, worth even more if it has ripple in the grain (looks like ripples in water when you catch it in the light). Don't dry it conventionally stacked horizontally with sticks as the sticks can easily stain the timber. Best dried stood on end against a wall.

Really??? Used an Altendorf F45 for years in a big workshop ripping down and dimensioning waney edged stock. Have one myself as do many of the guys I know in the furniture industry..... they are great for straight line ripping rough stock, dimensioning timber aswell as panel duties, just change blades.

Iroko makes your lungs hurt because it is toxic, causes respiratory inflamation and serious allergic reactions, internally when inhaled and externally on the skin..... Wear appropriate respiratory protection and cover up if you have 'delicate skin'. It's nasty stuff, used to use it loads when I was in boat fitting, poor mans Teak as it was known there. Learnt my lesson early on while machining it, asthma attack like symptons.... be safe. And get any splinters out soon as they go septic quick and hurt loads. Anyway I use my Makita 5903R 235mm all the time, it's big but safer than trying to push a saw thats not up to the job like the smaller 195mm versions. If your used to swinging big chainsaws about then the weight of the saw will be nothing to you....it sits on the wood anyway so your only pushing it along. 2 cuts is always a bad idea...... tensions in timber cause it to move, twist and cup as the tension is released by the cut. Do it with one cut and you minimise blade gripping by the timber or trying to push the saw into a slightly curved kerf. Use the right tool for the job.... TCT blade of course but don't worry about it being sacrificial, Iroko won't kill it, if it does it's not fit for purpose and you are due a refund. Best find someone with a ripsaw, table saw, panel saw who can wip it down in minutes.... Those Evolutions are great for the money though if your only using them occasionally, good power and will go through anything...

Whatever you do make sure you apply a finish to both faces not jut the face you will see. It may seem a minor thing but you must balance the faces to minimise any movement..... it's to do with moisture release and surface tension

physical finish is almost as important as your choice of wax or oil... Make sure the surface is well sanded and free from minute scratches from the sandpaper. Work your way down the grades of paper from 120, 180 finishing with 240. Work with the grain to minimise any minute marking. Only then add the finish... I'd go for oil, much more hard wearing than wax. Apply in thin coats with a lint free rag thin wipe off the excess with kitchen roll, again working with the grain. Get your eyes level with the surface and in the light you will see where there are smears, wipe them away...... Be gentle and quick as the thin coat will go off quick. Repeat above step 3 or 4 times, rubbing back very lightly between coats with something like 400 grit paper just to de nib. Should give you a immaculate finish..... Might be a bit much for what your doing but thats how I finish my furniture. Oil is pretty forgiving so you can still get a decent finish by just laying it on.... And as above Osmo is good or Morrells eazioil if you can get it.

Cheers Jonathan...... I would usually be have someone with me but every so often a little impromptu or emergency milling is in order when I'm the only one about. Just wondered is there was any sort of limit to milling width anyone would suggest for a one man winch mill operation?

Looks cracking Rob, I could well be interested in one of those too..... Do you think it would work well with one man and your winch system?

Very true, if only to create another toy for the collection And I'm sure it can..... What is this chainsaw mounted bandsaw you speak of?? got any pics? Sounds interesting

That LM2 does look a cracking bit of kit, you sound chuffed with it. Do you find you get any band wander on it at all? Trying to work out the optimum band width in relation to accuracy over power needed to drive it. I'm still happier with a 4 inch plus band I think. I'll try to get some pics up of the beasts I'm looking at if your interested?? Bit of machine porn for you sir?? I know what your saying about the hydraulic mill, but I can't help thinking that there would be far too much bespoke fabrication, trial and error, and hence cos,t to warrant pursuing it without the idea of recouping any cost through selling a few units..... ie: if there was a market?!?!

Do you not get a nice flat cut with your bandsaw mill?? The reason I was never that keen on woodmizers etc is the blade width or lack of. It seemed that a narrow width band would wander all over the place giving a rippled cut..... all cutting tools if pressed will take the path of least resistance. I recently looked at a bandsaw mill over here, proper industrial piece of kit with proper 5 inch wide bands. Good price (5000 ish euros) compared to woodmizers etc but would be tricky to make them mobile due to weight. Perfect for a stationary mill though. Anyway think I give it some thought and see what I come up with, am pretty set on making one now. Your guys plans with hydraulic motors etc sound awesome, a bit beyond me at the moment but I will watch with interest. Thanks for all the sound advice

Cheer for that Alec, quite an in depth reply!! Lots to think about and all makes sense.... I know the overall weight is an issue in single person use but at present I'm a fairly young pup so it's not so much of an issue. See what I feel about it in 10 years. My thinking was the toss up between stability and weight.... Yes Aly is light weight but you do get some amount of flex. From a furniture making point of view any flex or vibration in machinery is not a good thing, hence the use of cast iron in all my big machinery. I know they are stationary tools and built for precision but the principles remain the same. I'm thinking some hybrid construction, steel where I need it and aly everywhere else. I know what you saying about entry and exit from the log, I always thought a more stable method was required, I found using the ladder on each cut made it easier but this adds time and effort which I'm trying to reduce. Maybe some sort of flip over frame extension to give more contact in front of the saw at the start which can then be flipped to allow the same but behind the saw at the exit from the log?? Again this will add weight.... I like the idea of rollers so maybe the issue for me is just removing the debris before, a simple brush in front to clear the way? And yep some sort of manual rise and fall system would work, something that acts on both sides to maintain a constant uniform thickness. I have seen then on trailer mounted chainsaw mills but again it's adding weight..... Weight seems to be the issue..... Maybe I'm thinking about it all too much and current designs are fine???? Cheers for all the advice

Have any of you made one? I'm going to have a go myself, purely for personal use. Have a welding plant and tools and access to a metal working shop should i need anything else. Just after some tips or feedback from you guys really. What would make your set ups better.... I have looked all of the internet and tried to pick what I think to be the best elements of the homemade ones I have seen . So far the most important design features seem to be... Adjustable to take different bar lengths Adjustable handle positions Possible rollers on the base (flat contact part) Rollers on the sides to help move along the log Some sort of precision depth of cut adjustment Is the weight a huge factor? I know you have to move it around but in use the log takes the weight. I mill mainly at the yard so not a problem I guess... Anyway any advice or some pics much appreciated Cheers

Thanks mate, a lot of hard work ahead to get this place in order but well worth it. It's absolutely stunning and the folks here are great.... feel right at home. If any of the lot are ever out this way feel free to drop by, our door is always open and theres always food, drink and a bed for any weary travelers

Slighty overcast with sun trying to break through here hasn't rained in nearly 3 weeks..... I'm waiting for the snow but it doesn't seem to be coming.

Circular saw for straight cuts, jigsaw for curved cuts if your going for power tools..... Bandsaw would be a perfect start if your willing to splash out, pretty versatile and safer than power tools. As above forstner bits to cut flat bottomed round holes and a pillar drill would be perfect for accuracy but easily done with a hand drill if you go steady.

It's a tough one..... although I'm coming from the furniture making side of things it's much the same. I always found just being very polite, listening to what they have to say and some how try to find some middle ground that is practically viable from your point of view and makes the client feel like they have had some input. Saying that at the end of the day you are the professional and they are not so I often told them I simply would not do what they wanted as it wasn't what I thought the best course of action, it's my name on the line.... if I didn't get the job then so be it. I often found the men to be the most difficult as I was in their house ( castle ) quoting to do work they they felt they could do but the wife didn't..... awkward situations sometimes. I just tried to make them feel that they were involved..... Some people are just B****rds and are not worth dealing with, no matter how much money is involved, life is too short.

Thanks very much

sretna nova godina prijatelj, su dobra noć, ponašaju :-) Probebly nowhere near grammaticaly correct........ All I really want to say is Happy new year, hope you are all having a cracking night and all the very best for 2014, it's gonna be a awesome year :-)

Google is your friend https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=bird+box+plans&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=1MLCUuL1JKGp4ATQmoDgDw&sqi=2&ved=0CD8QsAQ&biw=1346&bih=643

Whats your budget? I only ask as bandsaws rely upon a solid body to maintain accuracy and function. The cheaper models are made from cheaper sheet metals and are more likely to twist under usage which can cause the blade to wander more or the band to come off the wheels more often. Vibration on any machine causes inaccuracies and poor performance..... hence why the old green cast iron machines are still the best. You may be better off looking for a second hand model, something like an old Startrite or SCM would be great. They do fairly small models with single phase moters that will run off of a 13 amp socket. This are industrial machines and are built like tanks so are solid and when set up correctly will out perform any cheap new model by miles. Check on Ebay, usually pick one up for a couple of hundred quid if you are lucky. The most important bits to look like on bandsaws are the blade guides, the table, the wheel adjustments and the motor..... You need guides above and below the table, they need to be adjustable to guide both sides of the blade and the back running edge. Bearing guides are best but resin blocks are good also, just make sure they are solid and sturdy. The table ideally wants to be cast iron but if sheet steel test that it won't easily twist under load. The wheels need adjustment to centre the band on the wheels and also set blade tension. Also rubber tyres on the wheels prolong blade life and make for smoother running. The motor just needs to be powerful enough to not slow on cuts (although blade condition is a big factor on not putting strain on the motor). Something above 3/4 hp should be fine. Tuffsaws do some very good quality blades at great prices..... I have used them for years and have no complaints. Don't know to much about scroll saws.......