Stompy

It needs to be milled soon after retrieving to minimise star shakes..... If it starts to dry in the round you will lose a lot. Mill as normal but sticker with 10-15mm thick sticks and air dry somewhere sheltered, preferably inside to lower air flow and thus slow drying. It can be delicate and temperamental stuff

I have reclaimed 100 year old plus in those Thicknesses or I can mill to spec... Problem is that I am in Croatia so unless you needed a couple of cubic metres or more is isn't really viable with transport costs.

Can't help with your decision but I would be interested in the Trak Met if you decide to sell.... Let me know ☺️

Hey guys After a bit of advice if I may..... I'm close to buying a 4 sided planer/moulder. I have a good deal on a SCM Compact XL with Tersa blocks and was pretty set on it until I got offered a used Logosol PH360 by one of my clients in Germany. Does anyone have one or has used one? They look great little machines and I know there may be a little timber prep work needed before puting timber through due to the lack of decent sized and solid infeed table but the larger capacity appeals to me. They also look a lot easier to set up and maintain. They also use spindle blocks on the side cutters (Of which I have loads) and have the option of putting moulding cutters in the top and bottom blocks. My concern is that the machine will not be accurate or tough enough compared to a traditional 4 sider. I work with reclaimed Oak, Chestnut and Elm.... all of which can be very hard and heavy. I produce everything from PAR timbers to finished flooring and mouldings. So any advice on either machine or any thoughts from you guys in the know? I was set on the SCM but now i'm torn......

30 degrees and clear blue sky over here in Croatia..... if it makes you all feel any better

Hi all I am looking for a Honda HRD 535 grass box and frame. Just wondering if anyone has an old functional one they would be willing to part with? Or know where to get one cheaper than from official Honda dealers? They are silly expensive new. Thanks

Isn't 'Bog Oak' a generic term for all timbers sourced from the ground or rivers..... doesn't actually have to be Oak??

Yep, would love a diesel /petrol powered model, makes more sense but more costly to run. To be honest I need a generator to run some bigger equipment and a 40 - 60 kw generator can be had for under 2 grand second hand.... Still a lot of money but the only option. Still you can't get a sawmill better for the money it seems, even with the cost of a generator bundled on.

Email sent mate Thanks again J, great info. I can't really afford the Hydraulics as I will need to factor in a generator to power it as my supply is on 17kw here. I would also like a dedicated forklift for the mill and all its operations. In my mind the beams and slabs we remill are so small that the handling is all done by hand and is mainly loading and unloading the bed. I can't justify the hydraulics for the little use they will get. Maybe hydraulic clamps might be a good idea. I think I will run TCT bands as well. That should put less strain on the motor and give better tracking and cut finish. Lots to think about..... I would also like a Slidetec circular mill to run along side. We supply both circular and bandsaw cut boards so need both really. Our old Robinson rip saw does the job but lots of handling. Cheers again for the advice mate

I've got the price list on my e mail if you would like it. No VAT if you are VAT registered which is a bonus and makes a huge difference. The joys of the EU (for all you EU haters )

Cheers for that J, just what I wanted to hear. There isn't much else that I have seen that comes even close to the specs for the money. I just wanted a bit of reassurance that there wasn't a reason it was so much cheaper. As I said not too fussed about the hydraulics. For now we only handle reclaimed timbers that are fairly small in comparison to logs so the extra 6000 euros on Hydraulics could be better spent on other toys. I do think that I may go for the 800, just the standard model for now.... makes sense while I am spunking cash, may as well go all in. Does the 800 have the board drag back as standard or is it an extra? Thanks again for the advice mate, much appreciated.

So Big J.....any updates and feedback on the mill? Interested to hear your thoughts after a few months with it.. I'm just planning a trip up to Trek Met HQ to order a mill. Looking at the TTP 600 premium plus. Not sure it is worth chucking an extra 1500 euros at it to go to the TTP 800 and only gain 10mm band width and 3 kw in power. I only really resaw reclaimed Oak, Elm and Chestnut.... Nothing over 400mm width so figured the 600 with a 50mm band would do the job well enough?

Thanks very much mate it is a truely beautiful place, great people, fresh air and space to breath. Hard work though but well worth it. Looks like it's the 066 then...... I'm gonna go take a look on Tuesday so If all is well then I'll have a new toy in the collection. If anyone wants a couple of Stihl 070's let me know

Thanks for the replies and info guys. Looks like the 066 is the way to go then. Anything problem wise to look out for on this model apart from the general condition and workings?

Yep. Have another in better cosmetic condition that will go on when the other sells. Both a great saws and do what we need they are just a little heavy for all day use and I really don't like the lads using them. I read the 066 cut a little faster but had added weight. Is the extra actually noticeable??

Hey I'm selling off our two old Stihl 070's and was looking at replacing them with a Stihl 064 to run alongside our 357 and 346 . I have just been offered a 066, same condition and same price as the 064 I was looking to buy. I've read that the 066 is a little heavier but has a little more grunt. The 064 may be a little more nimble.... I now don't know which to go for. Usage wise we dismantle old Oak buildings so saws used to trim big, rock hard, 100 year old plus Oak timbers. The 064 or 066 would be used on level ground in the yard mainly. So, which would you go for, 064 or 066? Opinions on both? Cheers guys

357 xp in daily use for firewood and on site 056 main ground saw on site 136 for on roofs 346 for workshop and yard/workshop use. 070 for huge big beams and tidying up stacks. We take down old solid oak houses. The Oak is hard as nails and the saws get a lot of hard abuse. The 056 is the only one that breezes through it all without any complaints. The Huskys need more maintenance but I do prefer them. The old Stihls are just monsters.

Hi Guys I'd like to pick the brains of those more knowledgable than myself if I may??? I picked up this beast today as part payment for a job. I know it is a Contra of some description just wanted to pin point the exact model..... I'm hoping it is a Contra S but not sure how to tell. Could just be a Contra AV. The muffler is definately not standard, looks homemade but the rest of it is in amazing condition for the age. I can't find a model plate on it anywhere so wondering if there are certain things to look for to find out her full name? Pics below...... I'm going to get her fully serviced, an original muffler fitted then put her up for sale as, as beautiful as she is, we already have plenty of muscle saws and I wouldn't like to lads using this, she is a bit rustic. Thanks guys

Hey guys I have been offered some very good bog Oak logs that I'm tempted to get in to mill and dry. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this timber? I would mill to 27mm and sticker/stack to air dry for a year or so before kiln drying. My question is what is the maximum MC that would be acceptable for the boards to go in the kiln? I know you need to air dry Oak prior to kilning but was wondering, it being bog Oak and at saturation point most likely, what time I'd realistically need to give it before kilning? My client needs in this time next year..... viable? Cheers

At that price the horizontals pop up now and then..... plenty of verticals going for less. Recently looked at one, 120mm band, auto drive carriage, also came with a seat and a 120 Hp diesel motor to drive the mill and carriage. Was on for £1900 but would prob get it for £1500. This is only £6800..... thinking about it PILANA WRAUOR Or this for around £8700, comes with everything for blade maintenance, grinder, welder, hammering jig, setting machine, 100metres of blank banding... POKRETNA PILANA Anyway. The weight is the main issue for moving it around as I would need a generator also, a big one. The size of the timbers is not really the issue, it's the quantity. If I were milling for some of my suppliers then it would be at their yards and around 20m3 of old beams and slabs. Saves a lot of shipping there and back being able to mill on site.

Hey Wills-mill, thanks for the info, muchly appreciated.... I'd already discounted a resaw and anything with a narrow band as it just won't do what I need it to do. I've looked into Swingmills and they seem closest to what I need but the width of cut is not enough. Most say you need to make 2 cuts to get the full 250mm and having to double cut for anything over means I may be making 4 cuts to get 400 - 500mm. It's just not efficient. I like the look of them and get offered a lot of timber in the round for practically nothing so something I will put on the wish list for the future for producing dimensioned stock. Today I went out to look at an old beast of a mill near Zagreb. A horizontal Lipovsek, prob 25 years old but still in great condition. 1200mm wheels, 1400mm cut, 14 metre track, 120mm bands. Blade lubing, electric guides but manual dogs. Electric rise and fall, electric drive and, may favourite part, a drivers bucket seat with a cup holder. Comes with an seperate automatic blade grinder (stick the bands on the machine and stands, set to tooth pattern,turn it on and have a cup of tea as it works it's way round the teeth). Also a tooth setter and a couple of spare bands. Not at all portable unless I had an artic but at just shy of £3000 it's a steal. This will do what I need no problem and allows me to handle some of the big Oaks I get offered. It weighs over 5000kg and is built in true Yugoslavian style, over engineered and able handle huge timbers all day long. The guy and his father were really helpful and plied me with home brew moonshine but really knew their stuff. He was suggesting TCT tipped tooth blades which I have seen before here. Takes out the on site maintenance but they swear that is the best way to go for very hard and dry timbers. For now I've kind of given up on the mobile idea as it just seems there is nothing out there big enough but portable to do what I need it to. The guys today suggested shortening the tracks and putting their mill on a farm trailer and pulling with a tractor. That way I can legally move it around as I can pull whatever weight I want with a tractor around here. Then loading with loading tines on the tractor....... worth a thought.

Cheers chaps. Is the slabbed on the Local basically a chainsaw Mill? I'll have a look at the Peterson and turbosaw. Has to be 100% mobile or it defeats the object. As I said we are buying a huge horizontal wide band Mill next year so no use for anything stationary. I had a look at resaws, always wanted a Stenner but they don't deal with twisted and bowed timber very well.

The Lucas doesn't have the width capacity I need...... It's gotta be 500mm cut or wider. I Agree the ripsaw gives a great finish but when I have 3 m3 to rip down it's hard work with the amount of timber handling. Plus some of the beams are just to heavy to lug about.

Yep, it's tough. We mill currently with a huge old 18Kw circular rip saw. It eats through it but it is hard work handling the timber and it's not at all mobile. For big jobs we take it to the local sawmill which has no problems with it but then they have 120mm bands run on 60Kw motors. Never tried a narrow band mill on Old Oak so was trying to see if it would be a viable option.

Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated. First and foremost my main concern is the narrow band...... Some of the old Oak we cut is concrete hard, I guess a result of 100 years of 40 degree summers and -15 degree winters. I know cutting dry timber is very different to cutting green and I can expect slower timings but will I still get a smooth, flat cut? I appreciate the blade can be main problem, as with all cutting tools, it must be sharp and set correctly. A wider band is much more stable but there is not much in the way of a wide band mobile mills is there? I toyed with the idea of a mobile circular mill but the power required to drive it is 3 -5 times that of a bandmill. And they are lethal!