Rich2484
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Everything posted by Rich2484
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Well using the new tool today after fitting new seals to this 200t. The gauge is staying put and when the rank is turned it moves up and then down by 2 inhg. But stays still after movement. So looks good on vac. Just need to pressure test with my old made up one.
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Bench mounted what? Grinder or hand filing tool thingy? I don't like the grinders as they are too easy to take too much off and heat the cutters up too much. Just looking for guides for chains and there file size and angles. Usually just do a google search but sometimes doesn't work.
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Hmmm a question I often ask myself there gardenkit. I'm interested in the answers you get. Wild be nice to see how my pricing stands up aswell.
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Yep. A nice one on order. Reccomendation from earlier on in thread. Seals can leak both ways but the vacuum test must be performed first before the pressure test.
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Wounder if its ok as it's a two handed operation....... Well until one hand gets chopped off.
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Oh shiny new tools.... Don't want to get it dirty now.
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Ok wolfman I will answer and try to help out a bit. Have a look at the rings inside the tank where the gap locks into. See if one of the open part wher the cap fits into before turning hasn't got a lip on the plastic. It's a bit hard to describe, but I have had the exact same thing before and use a sharp knife to remove a burr from the plastic. Cap fits perfect now.
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With a small ahum.... Dent in the tailgate... Goes its sledgehammers at 7 tomoz :lol: Enjoyable job that. Be glad when its done tho.
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Nah never dave. It got back to the yard without toppling over didn't it....
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It may idle fine. But revving up requires more fuel flow and if there is restriction on flow it will struggle. A solonoid could be at fault if its not opening all the way. Could try giving the solonoid a tap and see if it works. Try removing the solonoid and checking it over. See if there is any crud around it. Clean it and put it back. They require a charge from the battery but if the engine starts then its getting a voltage on it. Another option is to blow back throught the fuel lines into the tank from the filter just to ensure they are clear. It's the easiest thing to try before ripping the engine to pieces.
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This sounds like a fuel issue. The stop solonoid will not stop it revving up. It stops the engine so unless its a spill control valve. But I don't think the deutz engine has them. Either way the stop solonoid will only stop the fuel flow shutting down the engine and opening up again allowing it to start. There is an issue with you fuel flow. Not allowing enough through to let the engine rev high. Try in the fuel tank and see if there is a pickup filter in there. If not some may have moved past the filters when they where changed and into the fuel supply. But this would require pump and injector clean out. Check the fuel tank first.
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Cheers mike. Will get onto that. Well it's looking like I may have five minutes to continue with porting out the dolmar. I've gone as far as I dare on the ports. Just leaves the squish band. I've run it into some timber and although it does cut well I'm not convinced its really acting like a ported saw. I missed out on a nice little lathe aswell the other day. By the time I heard about it, I was I too late. Could have ended up with a nice pop up piston.
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I WAS beginning to wounder if there was any sort of air mods for saws. Every other part can be modded (almost) but not the air filter. I need to take a night and get onto these saws. Got Thursday so will have to set it and get them banged out. Awaiting seals for one but I know they will turn up when I havnt got the time to do them.
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Well for simple folks they are the contact points. Or areas. It's easier than trying to type the while of what you have had to. :001_tt2:
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scratter Noun. 1. A slovenly dressed person, a dirty person, perhaps of low intelligence and having little culture. Derog. 2. A contemptible person.
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If its been in retirement for a while you will find that the coil and flywheel will have a layer of rust on the contacts. Give this a good clean with spray and some emery. Ten check the spark again.
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Sorry bit posh that Steve. Plus they would get used for when you get caught short than clearing the nose. Nothing does it better than a good finger up there. :lol:
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That's brilliant mick... *Not so much a Scratter as some research has indicated, but more likely a similar species, the Lazy Classicist.
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Depends on what part of the plug has gone and what colour the rest of it is to determin if fuel is an issue with over heating running rich or lean. Is it a noticeable gone of plug as in electrodes destroyed or just not sparking. Just seen you have said weak orange spark. First I would check the coil/flywheel gap. And check they are nice and clean.
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More info required. What state was the plug in. What plugs are you using. If you was to run a new plug for a tank of fuel what colour or shape is the plug in when you take it, before it goes boom?
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Thought about this thread while on way back to had today. Had a really hard one that drew some blood..... Then had a slug trail one... Straight onto my trousers with them both.
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I know the feeling spud. Another has landed. This one has leaking fuel pipe. New one on order then a full test to see if anything else is amiss. I'm actually struggling to find the time to carry on splaying with the ported dolmar. It's just sitting there and I'm itching to carry on with the mods......
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Just one thing I've noticed.... It can't handle very well around the corners.
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Saws take up space. I like to try and get the, cleared as quick as I can for room for other things. Although due to the crap stihl oem seals one 200t has been with me longer than I would like. Luckily the owner is on holiday next week so gives some pressure relief while awaiting the seals.
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What's happened to your help Barrie. I have heard a nearly local shop from me has got a current waiting time of 3 weeks at the moment.
