Rich2484

And if all else fails you will be getting a 200t in the post spud. But not until I have explored every avenue of possibility there is.

:lol: Welcome to my day and now night spud. It's all I'm thinking about aswell. And it's bugging the crap out of me. The comp reading was after a warm up. I decided to test it after it was running for a bit and was dying out on me. The rings and piston are fine. Trust me. There is nothing wrong there exept a bit of transfer from the start that I couldnt feel with finger and cleaned off easily. Don't worry as soon as I have tested the points made tonight I will post straight away. Will even take my iPad with me tomoz so I can. My first test is to take the carb off and check the ring thingy behind. Then I will use a bit of grease on the mating surface of boot and the impulse line behind the handle. This will give me jump in before having to start setting up the vac/pressure tester straight away. And it will give time for the jb weld to go off on the scrap carb so I can test it later on.

What do you mean think you are thick as **** :001_tt2: :lol: But now you have forgotten to take it don't forget to put it back in

Spud I don't think I'm going to sleep now as all I want to do is go back to workshop and hit that saw. Don't think the missis will love me any more if I up and leave at this time of night. But I'm going in early tomoz and looking at it Fair enough Barrie, I'm sure someone I was talking to on here went there. Just there was a lecturer there called Barrie. My mistake, he was teaching horticultural machinery. Had a few lectures with him but all I wanted to do was start taking engines apart.

Sorry gardenkit but I have just thought of something. I'm sure you said you went to Hadlow college. Did you teach or pupil??? Edit. How do you think my head feels spud.

I do hope you are not climbing a hung up tree there. :lol:

To be honest I havnt looked at it Just put it on and thought it looked right. Another check for the list

But again its three carbs. The saws original one, an 020 one new from the box, and a working carb from a working saw that I fixed before (well tweaked to run like a monster before) The original one is the earlier carb that doesn't have the pump in it. But not the 020 carb.

I remembered your post about the diaghram stud being too long before and checked this out aswell. The one thing that and me baffled was after adjusting the meter valve arm the saw ran better as in it actually started. But again with two other carbs one new from a box and one off a working 200t it shouldn't have made a difference. But I lifted the arm up level with the carb body so this would make more fuel let into the system counteracting and air issue. This extra fuel wouldn't have made a difference in the high running of the saw as it would have been burning it by then and would just run rich..... So in theory there must be an air leak in the system and if the crank case is sealed tight and I can more or less rule out a carb issue it must be between the carb and case. This only leaves the carb boot and impulse line. But the boot is on the cylinder nice and tight and I did put some grease around the boot to ensure a good seal was made and the impulse line was also well attached to the cylinder end as I couldnt pull it off when I was stripping the saw down. So that only leaves the carb boot end and the impulse handle end and the hole between carb and boot. Right plan of action for morning, remove the carb and set and old carb up as gardenkit has said, then test this side of the system with pressure and vac. Or just use a bit of grease to temp seal the mating surfaces and try and run the saw to see what happens. Sorry folks a lot of thinking while typing there... Looks like my main areas of concern are the boot and impulse.

That's a sound idea have a few scrap carbs. So would I need to plug the whole of the carb or could I remove the metering valve and plug the diagram holes after removing the diaghrams and go in through the fuel inlet and just block the main inlet with a plate...?

There's some food for thought there agg. There is now a fuel spurt format he pipe when taken off the carb. I did replace the fuel pipe and filter with known good ones. So fuel pipe is ruled out. I'm afraid that with the 200t the impulse line doesn't connect direct to carb but connect behind the carb mounting and a seperate Chanel takes it to the carb. Onto the carb boot. But I see what you are saying and I will think of a way to keep it on there while testing. It is doable but will take some fiddling and I may have to use a biro and a marker for the testing. One for the big hole one for the small hole. Given me something to think about there. I need to go and test the carb boot and impulse lines on the carb side. It can be done and it must be the only thing left to try. Every other avenue has been covered. Other than the boot twisting as spud has said and not seeing it due to the carb being in the way. So three areas to test tommorow. Thanks agg. That's a long post. Sorry alvin distracted now. You seal area. The pic is a bit hard to see. Looks like the damage doesn't go all the way down the seat. You may be ok with it but you need to use some bearing fit compound when fitting the seals. You may just get away with that.

The ms260 is currently an obsolete saw to buy new form stihl. So with this in mind the next one is the ms261 currently priced from the stihl 2012 catalogue is £660 with the 16inch bar. With vat. You will ned to highlight that you will not be able to buy another new ms260 saw and would need to buy the new ms261. As buying secondhand may mean using ebay and a secondhand saw will not give you the reliability that you need in your profession. That's what I would say.

Unless someone has superglued the case you have a screw still in...

Really? They normally fall apart. Please do ensure that all screws are out. From memory I believe there are 8 in total. Two around the crank, one at the bottom of the crank, two at the top under the front mounting on the handle, two at the front one around or under the bar tensioner area and one under it by the bottom of the dog, and one at the bottom back half near where the exhaust sits in. So three around the crank casing. Two at the top by handle/earth wire, two at the front by the dogs, and one at the very bottom. I clamped half the casing in a vice a gave the crank a tap with wooden mallet.

Well that's why it's my way now. To clean it up. It's actually dust from the shed and I'm looking forward to cleaning it up. Should look really nice exept the lack of stickers on. But the I.D plate is still there. I just havnt looked to see what model it is. Still going to disinfect the bench after :001_tt2:i:biggrin:

Ok. Even know its a new bar is the oiler holes lighning up ok? Other than that is the oiler screw in the open position. Failing these look into the rubber gromit thing on the pump or take the pipe off the pump and see if oil is in there and it nice and clear. Try opening the oil tank cap and blowing back down the pipe. Also could be the oil tank breather issue. Take the oil cap off and run it up see if it improves. But don't get oil everywhere

Ok. Home now and saw is staying put. I did fire it up before I left and its the same thing. Will only start on choke then half choke then run fine. Tickover seems to have settled a bit. But stop it and have to use half choke to get it going again or hold full throttle. Just wont start on tickover. I did get a chance to look over a saw that wa son the list for today. An old husky, yes that right I have a husky on my bench, will need to disinfect it after...... It has been sat in the owners shed for a year or two, his son wants to get into loggin and he wants to give him this saw to use. So wants it cleaned and checked over. Spark is ok. Not brilliant but ok. Put some fuel in it and it started well on choke then fired up properly. After a short while of running would die on full throttle, so got to strip it down and clean it out. I'm expecting diagrams to get destroyed as they normally do and fuel lines to crack. But until I strip it down who knows, could do with w little bit of luck. And worst of all is I didn't even get a chance to carry on with the ported dolmar....

Phew. I'm glad of that one. I was about to start putting my price up aswell. Glad I'm going on the same level as you Justin.

Over revving before dying would be a lack of fuel issue. Or too much air getting in. As above what colour is the plug.. How does the compression feel? If you can get a tester on it do so.

Many thanks people for the help. This is why I love arbtalk. Spud a challenge is not the word I would use but ok..... Ok so I will endevour to answer the above posts so bear with me please. Ok so here is the full story on this saw. It came to me as non running, so a change of carb to eliminate carb issue and it didn't sort it. The saw was not running unless loads of fuel was poured down the carb. A pressure test resulted in the seals being gone. When I started to strip down to get the seals out after I removed them there was significant play in the crank both left and right and a slight knock up and down. So I replaced the bearings and put the crank case back together, before the seals went in the movement on he crank had stopped with the new bearings. There was a small amount of transfer under the exhaust port but NOT enough to worry me about the piston or pot so cleaned it off. Although the comp is a little bit on the low side it's not enough to stop it running. New seals in and tested the saw, both vac and pressure test came beck good. No leaks at all with whatever way I rotated the crank or tried to move it about in any position, I got very anal about trying to move the crank while under the tests and stopped myself from grabbing the pliers to try and wiggle the crank (very technical term that spud ). So assuming that was all fine I re assembled the saw, I then had the running problems I have described. So carb off and two carbs to test this out. All came back with the same problems. So I retested the vac and pressure. The way I go in for the tests is through the impulse line. So spark plug in, exhaust port blocked and carb boot on and blocked. This way as I see it both the impulse line and carb boot are tested for leaks aswell as the caseing. These tests again came back fine. Tank vent vac tested and working as it should. Fuel line also replaced with another to test his out. Again was fine. So pressure tested the carb and it was working as it should. Until.... I looked at the meter valve and adjusted this up a bit after checking its alignment with the carb body. It was a little bit low. Put the saw back together and it will run on choke then half choke and start up. It will then run on tickover and rev up and down (and it really revs up well) but stop it and you will get it trying to fire up on tickover but just not manage it. But go to half choke and it will fire up fine then run ok. The tickover is a little bit lumpy but will rev up fine. So after adjusting the metering valve it will run ver well on high revs. Ive looked at the carb boot position and it is right, also looked at the position of the impulse hole on boot to carb and it is also in the right position. The ht lead is also in very good condition with no marks or holes in it, and is giving the best possible spark it can. Opened up the gap on plug a long way and the spark will jump the gap. I've spent the whole day on this saw so its been a loss today. But it's just he way it goes sometimes. And no spark screen in exhaust. I've cleaned the exhaust out aswell. But I've got no intention in giving up on this saw.

Yep yep and yep. Checked all. The seals are new (the same ones you reccomeneded) and there is definatly no leaking when I rotate the crank or wiggle it about, well try to anyway, since the new bearings and seals went in there was no movement at all in the crank, but with the worn ones the crank would move left and right a bit. Changed the fuel line and it is no squirting fuel when I pull it off and the tank vent is working fine, its the vent in the tank not the y shape pipe. Will not tickover. Have to go to choke then half choke to get it to run, the tickover redrew is all the way in but the saw is not over revving on tickover, it will run for a short time then die out and to restart have to go back to choke and a half choke but still die out on tickover. I think I'm actually beaten for once and I think this saw will make its way back to customer. NOT what I want to do but I just can't figure it out.

Right. Tried a total of three carbs now and the same thing each time. Re done a vac and pressure test and the crank case, impulse and boot are all leak free in either test. Spark is very good and gap is good. Comp tested again and that is at 160psi. The one thing that is really stuck in my head over it is the fuel tank. After trying to run and taking the fuel pipe off the carb there is no pressure in it. So o fuel squirts out of the pipe. Not sure how this would effect it much other than not enough fuel is getting into the engine. The plug Does look a bit dry when removed but the saw will go to full revs no problem then hold a high tickover before dying out. I've looked at the meter valve and it looks ok but again does the same thing on two other carbs....

The carb is a new 020 one from the box. It works fine as I have used it on other saws to determine the carb issue before. An dits works on other saws. Will look into the impulse lines in a bit. I'm hungry

Flywheel gap is done from strip down. Spark is really good outside the engine and plug is clean. Going to swap it for a new one just to be sure but not that. The impulse line is good. Removed the old tank vent completely to remove this issue. I'm not getting the usual squirt of fuel from the fuel pipe when I remove it from carb with the vent in.... The saw will rev up but the moment it goes to tickover it will idle fast for a short while with the tickover screw all the way in then die out and won't restart unless it on half choke. Eating lunch while I think about it then having another rcrack at it. I do have a husky saw waiting to be checked out so if I get annoyed with the stihl I will jump on the husky.

Yes I am. Although this saw is getting to me now. Half a day on it already. It passed both vac and pressure tests. The comp is not as high as I would want but is on 150psi. It will run on half throttle but won't tickover and is a pig to start. I've changed the carb but no change. I'm looking at the tank vent at the mo. but fuel is getting in ok.