pleasant

If a cutter is 4mm wide irrelevant of its location within a bar it can only make a cut of 4mm in wood???? No more, no less.

There is no assumption about it. All three cutters are identical on those chains. The width of the drive link doesnt dictate the width of the cut in the wood....the dimensions of the cutter does.

Its not me that writes them off though....its the customer and how much he wants to spend. I am happy to repair anything to keep it going, but if the customer isnt prepared to pay to do that, then there is no option. I dont work for nothing and im not a charity either.

I sell oregon chain....all three versions of .325" the 95, 21 and 22.....so 1.3 1.5 and 1.6mm, and it is the width of the drive link in the bar that is the ONLY difference. The width of the kerf will be the same in the wood. It is the rolling resistance within the bar groove that MAY improve using a narrower drive link, but in the real world this is negligible. With respect, i think you have put yourself through a lot of stress and hassle for little or no benefit IMO

Right.....the oil flow is NON adjustable. It's a lightweight domestic use saw, so a very basic spec. No cordless Stihl saw comes as standard with a carving bar, so this has either been added by the dealer as a cost upgrade, or it was purchased by the OP with the saw as an extra to replace the original 1/4" pitch chain on the standard 12" bar. 12" carving bar part number is 3005 000 3105, so check whether this is correct. As the operator, from a safety perspective it is you that should be competent enough to check a bar and chain is fitted and tensioned correctly....if you don't know how to do this, then you shouldn't be using a chainsaw IMO. Asking the supplying dealer to check that it is, when the operator should know himself would be a concern to me. Anyway, I digress.......check the bar is correct for the saw. Check the oiler holes have been correctly machined. I have known some to be part drilled or swarfed up. Yes- check yourself that it is mounted correctly as if not, the oil will simply pump out past the oil holes at a greater rate than if slightly restricted by the bar being correctly mounted. If all seems fine, then take it to your nearest main dealer with your purchase receipt for them to look at it It's under warranty, and you don't want to void it by messing about with it too much. After all....that's what a warranty is for.

That's not strictly true. A .325" chain cutter tooth and links are exactly the same length and cutting width irrelevant if the drive link in the bar groove is 1.3mm 1.5mm or 1.6mm. The only difference is the bar groove width....thinner the drive link, less rolling resistance...that is the theory any way, although in practice no one in a normal work environment is going to notice any difference. In a lab test, yes possibly, but we all know real world is not a lab.

........and recycle accordingly 😄

You wanna give my wife a shout....would be a breeze for her!

Blimey.....methinks you really need to go out and find an accommodating girlfriend! 🤣🤣

I agree......never had an issue except for impact damage failure There is a lot of 'blueing' to the con rod in the pic. Indicating a lot of heat has been generatied in there. Like has been said, there's not a lot of grease in there- and grease doesn't just lubricate but is cools. Have the components been re-fitted correctly? Causing blueing like that is not just an indication as to a lack of lubrication, but potentially interfering with each other causing unnecessary friction.

You need to take into consideration the state pension- which with the proposed increase in the new year will be £10,400.00 (ish) for the full amount P.A. So £10,400 x 18 years =£187k (67-85) 540k-187k = £353k That obviously also doesn't take into account any inheritances you may receive along the line, any other investments, or indeed the option to downsize later on in life

I deffered my personal pension when I got to 55, as I was still enjoying work and TBH I simply couldn't afford to retire- particulary now I have to work until 67 to get the state pension. So put it back until I would be 60 That was nearly 5 years ago now, so next year i can start taking it......and I still can't afford to retire. Just received my pension statement for the last years payments and my pot has gone DOWN by 25k on this time last year.

Has the linkage been replaced in the correct hole in the throttle quadrant. Bit difficult to make out in your video?

In an ideal world, where you have at least two of everything and a known working component, then yes. Fill yer boots!

Can be.....if you take the plunge and shell out for all of it. But if you are an agent for half a dozen manufacturers and all testing equipment is brand specific it's can be very expensive. Taking into account the cost of diagnostic equipment and labour, even if you can tell a customer what's wrong because you have the 'kit' if it's beyond an econmomical repair, then you still aren't earning anything from the repair that never materialised. Yes, we get paid for doing the diagnostics to provide the customer an estimate oif costs, but we have to keep this charge lower that we would like to, because even the charge for an estimate can and will put people off even considering a potential repair

There really are only 5 major things that can and do go wrong- battery, charger, switching, PCB and motor. Labour rate to repair is the same as a petrol. Generally electric stuff is more labour intenstive to diagnose and repair as they are a fiddly clamshell construction, and predominantly just by looking you can't actually 'hear' or 'see' the issue unlike petrol, so testing is required. When you quote an hours labour to get into it and then diagnose the issue even before a repair this can be over £50- however, providing the operator still has the good battery and charger, then for them a body only replacement machine makes more economical sense to purchase rather than repair the old 'body' At that point then we are often asked to 'recycle' (or dump) the faulty unit This 'green' machinery lark is a con

Battery kit out of warranty= generally beyond economical repair. More landfill Petrol kit out of warranty= repairable at reasonable cost. Extended life. Less landfill

As you are an occasional user, then I suspect rather than price, ease of operation, weight and a brand that has good support is more important to you. Therefore (like above) I would also recommend the Stihl MS181 with a 14" bar. Easy to use, good back up, and unlike a pro saw, will be a lot lighter for you to operate on an occasional basis.

If he/she can't be rsssed to enlighten his customer base, then buggered if I am!

If you re-read my earlier post you will see I state I already retail Aspen alongside Stihl Motomix and Moto+4. I know the virtues of using those products and I take great lengths and time explaining that to potential new users who in the first instance see the price and need an explanation as to why the cost, and then the benefits. When I asked you to explain your statement about 'overcoming the cost issues' (sic) by having a free trial, I was asking you to elaborate as to what the features and benefits are to the consumer and benefit to the machinery it is being used in....you know, the kind if stuff people would need to look out for. I am looking at this from a domestic/semi pro gardener man in a van user point of view, who is not privvy to the general chat between pro arb users, who may well know the advantages of your product already. There are an awful lot of casual users and semi pro gardeners who read this forum and reference it, and they would no doubt appreciate reading of the benefits and features of your product more than a pro user who is already aware of the product and the ONLY obstacle to them purchasing is price. I think you have made an assumption it is only pro user customers on here who are well versed as to your products benefits, and it is your understanding therefore, that price is your only obstacle on here. That may well be true for Arb pro's, but like I say, it isn't just those that view or search this forum for information. I wasn't being argumentative, and I know your trial offer is only open to pro arb guys, but I was effectively asking you explain to others, maybe less well informed potential new users- but you didn't

I think that last part of your comment sums that all up quite well., as quite clearly you couldn't

'and may then be inclined to up their prices in line' So someone may not need to, but will do so simply because they think they can? I don't like this practice..it is unjust, immoral and stinks of corporate cartels. Work to the profit margin you require given your costs....if you can reach that target without having to effectively fix prices by charging what others are, then good on you and good on your customers.

A general rules of thumb is the ideal length bar is 'roughly' a third of an engines cc's

Yes, ok