openspaceman
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Everything posted by openspaceman
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Makes no sense, the last thing a bat trying to lap up blood would want is for the blood to clot
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Don't encourage ratty
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That's a sail engine
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You ran the saw without the chain on, the inertia as the clutch spins down unscrewed it.
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It's not hardness you need but rather toughness and tensile strength. Normal bolts tend to be 8.8, the next common stronger ones are 10.9 and the highest tensile strength is 12.9, countersunk ones seem to be limited to 10.9 although some sellers do claim 12.9. -
Stail engine??
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The only solution was to cut the old pockets off the rotor and weld on new ones, it was a poor designe compared with the Awhi. @Will C seems to have a handle on it, making sure the wheel is cleaned of any debris so the cutter seats well. Also if they are allen bolts 12.9 are the strongest.
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Looking at your photo of the snapped bolt there is what appears to be a fatigue crack developed from the thread root which then causes the bolt to fail in tension. Can you get a bolt with a longer none threaded shank? I had a similar but not frequent problem with the Plaisance mulcher where the bolt would snap and the bolt head then fly off, followed by the tooth if I didn't notice the problem. It was caused by the pocket being worn and the cutter could rock very slightly fore and aft flexing the bolt head and eventually snapping. The Plaisance bolts did not directly hold the tooth in as yours do.
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Well to my mind they just need a CE and as long as the loader is down when the tongs are attached/detached and anyone is outside the riskzone whilst a log is suspended... In practice of course people will take the risk and generally these things grip far better than a grapple loader that has a log gripped in the tips of the jaws (a no no for forest machine operations)
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The ebay ones open to 1.3m and the Clarke only 0.7 so I would go on the ebay ones even though I would have expected the simple ones to be cheaper.
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It is easier to remember than the highwayman’s which I forget how to tie five minutes after copying it from the knot book, I use it and have shown it to the boss but old dogs and new tricks... The thing is it benefits me over scrabbling about trying to release the running bowline but it also speeds the job up. I first saw it on that youtube video when it was shown here a few years ago.
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They look overly complicated what does that design offer over the ones in this picture? Which is similar to the ones I had before getting a grapple loader in 1984. Mine were allegedly cut out of 1/2" armour plate and in some circumstances, where you cannot get at more than half of the log, bettered the grapple loader.
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I was against HS2 for a number of reasons, the sheer impact on the landscape from the overhead infrastructure being a lesser one not often commented on, but you of all people should know better than to think this 20 minute saving in journey time was the main rational. It was about increasing capacity on the local loops and to move transport toward electricity use rather than fossil fuels. Also Keynesian economics suggest regrowing the economy and confidence after a crash can be done with publicly funded infrastructure projects.
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Using a chainsaw in a public place
openspaceman replied to NorfolknGood's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
that would depend on whether the work was for gain or reward. -
Yes I think you are right, I was put off by the fact we more often see more blue varieties of Atlas
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Irrelevant; it's supply and demand and what the competition is. If your Unique Selling Point is that you stack the logs artistically and you are in great demand then you can jack up your charges for stacking or delivering at weekends and you keep the customers because they are loyal to your brand, over do it and it lets someone else in who undercuts you. BTW I too work in a wealthy area and in the last six days I have worked in gardens of houses none of which could be bought for less than £4M but I doubt it has made the chap I work for any more than a modest suburban garden because there are dozens of "tree surgeons" working locally.
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Not droopy enough for me, I was going on lebanon.
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I like the idea that a TPO can infringe a persons rights and that they should be able to abate the nuisance but would like to see a bit of case law before I would chop away. In Surrey I used to come across a fair few big oaks many years after they had been protected and had badly impacted the enjoyment of a garden now they were shading most of it and the LA TO wouldn't countenance removal.
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Looks like something like on a BV202 artic snow cat
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Help with tree structure.
openspaceman replied to Aaron9546's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
No it's just that you want to keep as much leaf to contribute to growth, when I'm walking through young planting I'll often just snap the tip of a co dominant stem. I'm thinking 5+ years but the main thing is to keep wounds small and before any heartwood is formed in the branch. The reason for formative pruning is to produce a clean stem, the advantage is that then there are no low down branches for someone to come along and hack off once they are loo large to heal sensibly, it also means no poor branch unions low down will fail in the future as a tear out with bark inclusion. -
Help with tree structure.
openspaceman replied to Aaron9546's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Don't cut it off yet but disadvantage it by reducing it at this stage. Then once the tree is fully established start lifting in stages keeping the crown to 40% of the height. Aim to get all your formative pruning done before the stem is 4" diameter and while branches being removed are small diameter. -
Keep the old pot, chances are it is recoverable.
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It's even more difficult on a modern car, not only do the immobilisers and alarms drain power but the ECU puts the car to sleep in stages, so you have to wait an hour or so before checking and the you mustn't disturb anything by opening doors. The modern way makes a thing of the fact fuses have to have resistance to work, without resistance they wouldn't get hot enough to blow. so each different amperage fuse has a different resistance, measuring the tiniest voltage across the two little windows at the back allows you to see what current is draining via the fused circuit by looking at a table published for each fuse.
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The thing to check is does the voltage rise when the engine is running? Even with a little crankshaft mounted permanent magnet charger it should get above 13.2V after running for a fair period. After a day of non use a battery should still be above 12.8V. If it falls below this when not in use there may be a phantom load discharging it. Check that by taking off a terminal and seeing if it still drops at the same rate.
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Descriptive, I've never thought about a name for it
