openspaceman

IMO that saw set the scene for modern harvesting saws, it was lighter and more ergonomic than the Danarms and homelights people used before, It was well engineered and built to last but oh boy does it feel heavy compared with a modern saw, I wondered how I managed to tote one about all day.

This is down to your agreement and contractual arrangement. Be very wary of gentlemans' agreements. The licence goes with the land, the owner can appoint the contractor as his agent to liaise with the FC with a document available on the FC website. The owner should have a copy of the licence. It is often beneficial to enter into a grant scheme rather than just a felling licence. Very much so, this should cover price, timing, extraction routes, stacking areas and how the land will be reinstated. Also simple things about size of material that can be left. One university near me sold standing on an outturn basis to the highest bidder who subsequently felled the parcel, took out all the sawlogs to 8" top and paid for them leaving everything else on site which tangled mess cost more to clear up and burn than they received for the parcel. I would have harvested sawlogs, bars and chipwood leaving only material under 2" as lop and top, If it is small diameter it is just left to rot, sorry must rush

I agree the tracks are a bit simple for off piste use compared with things like the RC100 I used to drive and never lost a track but they had amazing utility in the right situation, largely when chipping to waste. We had some subbies working around sutton coldfield in the cuttings and I was flabergasted where they were taking the 1928 safetracs, the fire risk of not being able to chip meant any other method would have had massive costs in labour. I never had to deal with a lost track on the GM1928 other than one which snapped on a hired in machine with owner driver, the steel wires had been exposed over the years and rusted through. I regularly had to deal with the carlton grinder derailing tracks.

...and never leave it on a trailer

Me too after my last encounter, luckily they announced an inflation busting price increase mid contract and didn't realise it broke the contract. Pursued me for money for a year.

A copse is a wood that is in a coppice rotation. A spinney is a small group of thorns A carr is a collection of alder A thicket is a young woodland grown close and at pre pole stage Any more?

Also I would have taken a couple of strokes off the depth gauges by the time the cutters were filed back this far.

It's just taken me 30 minutes to download and view those two videos. In both there is only one feed roller running and with one the second roller is apparently jammed with a piece of wood. Now I am used to only one roller running, as the Dosko only has one but why do you expect yours to feed if one roller is stalled and holding material in its teeth. Also the roller seems to be running too fast, does the speed increase when the other jams? I would expect the oil to boil run flat out and stalled. I had (still have somewhere)a TP with vertical rollers and if you fed that too fast with springy material it would curl round on the disc and bunch up at the edge where there were only anvil like devices to break it.

@Treewolf has made me scrabble about into the dark recess of my garage to dig mine out. It has the bar on both sides. I have had the thing apart in the past, a fairly simple job, but I cannot remember what this is attached to.

Witches' broom, a deformity from disrupting auxins (plant hormone) possibly related to the dead top no longer having apical dominance and hence ceasing to produce the auxin that inhibits side branches competing with it.

If the steel has bent cold it means the strain has gone beyond its elastic limit and it has entered the plastic deformation zone . I think it has been weakened both initially and when bent back. The problem is when it is repeated cracks develop along the crystal boundaries. Steel copes with this better than aluminium which always eventually fails if stressed this way (hence Comets falling out of the sky and no aluminium suspension springs.

Oregon Ripping Chain RipCut Super Skip .404", 1.6 mm 27rx not meant for cross cutting, you'd want and old 59AC type for cross cutting dirty wood. For crosscutting up to 36" you don't need a skip chain on a big saw.

Now why doesn't that surprise me

Yes Surrey is a hotspot for them, I regularly find the grubs and re bury them in the hedge with a lump of wood, I have noticed a loss of so many beasties in the last 50 years, no more slow worms, common lizards, hedgehogs, most of which I put down to increased traffic but also far fewer songbirds that I dread the years when I don't see stag beetles, so far they return most years at this time.

When is the video coming? I wouldn't have thought it worth risking the Lucas slabber bar for this, an old 100cc saw with a 36" bar will get through most things, with maybe something to guide it at the correct width. Anyway much better than getting Daisy pushing it through the mud.

I was pleased to have this lady visit, a bit surprised that she was hovering in front of my desk well after the doors were shut for the evening. A bit cold but I popped her out so her suitors could battle it out for her.

Are you comparing the growth rings of eucalyptus with Scottish/Scandinavian eucalyptus or softwoods? The thing is oak and ash tend to be better quality (higher strength and elasticity) when fast grown whereas softwoods tend to be better with ring counts of 14 ish to the inch. What evidence is there that nitens will be a poor structural timber?

...and the whatever reason is most likely one side cutter is less well sharpened than the other. A worn bar when well dressed to remove any burrs will cut surprisingly well if the chain is good, it shows up on awkward and horizontal cuts but can cross cut well after it's useless for felling.

@Ian C I have downloaded the spec sheet for those valves (https://www.phoenixhydraulics.co.uk/file.php?filename=WebCat-002a006300010010/VRF Barrel Flow Control Valve.pdf) and they are adjustable so you would only need to match the fittings' threads and insert them at the diverter.

Are you sure you have not simply sheared the brass pins where the handle attaches to the spigot

I remember those, never used one though, just replaced bar when it got that worn.

I thought you said there was a diverter to the rotator circuit? If so you want them after the diverter else they will slow the other service. You need to talk to the supplier and tell them what flows and pressure you have and what you want to limit them down to. Also what the hose and fittings are.Yes you need a pair and they must be fitted with the check valve free flow on the outlets. You want the crack off pressure of the check valves to be low, less than 15psi.

You need a pair of check valves with a flow limiter (small hole) in parallel. The need is to let the rotator exhaust with no back pressure but limit the flow in from either direction. I suspect you could make them from ordinary inline check valves and a file. BSPP, Barrel Flow Control, With Check, Threaded Hydraulic Valve [P22125801] - £16.51 : Hoses Direct WWW.HOSES.CO.UK BSPP, Barrel Flow Control, With Check, Threaded Hydraulic Valve [P22125801] - Request Tech Sheet No. 10537 for...

Dunno wot one of those be leaf looks like vine leaved maple. The name Eames is a blast from the past, a pair of brothers round Dorking.

Naughty and deprecated More of a manual balance pond, set the tap at the bottom to constantly drain at an acceptable rate in the winter, shut it and use the water in the summer. A heavy rainstorm will be dumping 1.5m3 of water on a 50m2 roof with 1" downpour and my water butts only take 500 litres each. Basically you have to prevent water coming in to the garden and buffer the amount that falls off the roof to empty between downpours. Put something heavy on any sewer inspection covers in the garden and consider raising a mound around the garden.