openspaceman

Did you have any of those wobbly toy figures which when you flicked them always wobbled back upright? A tree is like that, the soil entrained by the root system is a great big weight hanging over the hole from which it has come, this is counterbalanced by the stem and top, so there is a massive bending moment in the area between root and stem waiting to release a lot of force. Sometimes the tree falls over with a shallow roots and ends up jacked off the ground with the rootplate towering over the stem, cut it on the wrong side of it's balance and the stem drops to the floor and the rootplate falls the wrong way burying you.

https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/documents/1963/FCBK039.pdf

Margaret read what @Mick Dempsey says, wait and see. Height has been reduced even though it's not well executed work but the tree will recover and in summer it will still be hiding some of that concrete roof. Keep that conifer hedge regularly trimmed too, else it will grow out into the garden and become too late to recover. The tree has sprouted from a stump anyway which is why there are so many stems

Probably and something else from those black lines (pseudo schlerotic plates?) was entry from that bark damage showing compensatory wound occlusion at the bottom of the photo?

The one above looked like elm. I wonder if spring summer felled oak gets more mould than winter felled as there are less sugars in the sap, not there is less mould on the heartwood.

Sorry I don't know but personally would risk 1 metre. How does the cost compare with fitting the sealed air kit? I just looked and £49 so for the sake of a core drill, flexible exhaust pipe and that...

Not a problem and nothing to disagree in that post, I have never thought about toilet cistern overflows but modern ones are internal and into the bowl.

For some reason Neil's new content got attributed to me. The only thing is that the problem may well be because of wind conditions around the house, my thoughts on an internal circulation was just another possibility

I was saying what my ancient one would do but your other points make sense. Also bent logs increase the depth of cut required. Other than my little mitre saw, which I intend to cut some old steel bed frames with, I have not used a TCT blade, nails should be no big issue I still prefer the circular saw in the processor but the only chainsaw one I used was the Japa with a belt driven chain IIRC. I have lost a couple of finger nails with my circular saw snatching the log and with the log jamming the blade, a chainsaw just stops in the same circumstance. I used a segmented belt as it slipped more easily. I haven't used it for many years

15 rose/briar 14 horse chestnut, (aesculus hippocastrum) 13 Ivy,(hedera helix) 12 rose/briar 11 ivy aerial leaves 10 soft rush (juncus efusa?spelling) 09 ivy berries 08 elder 07 bramble 06 possibly old nettle stems 05 ash (Fraxinus excelsior) 04 ash keys 03 ash 02 haws 01 haws, bramble leaves and briar stem

trouble is they need to be 750mm diameter to cut 230mm but faster than a chainsaw, just as easy to sharpen with a file, unless TCT, but have to be returned to a sawdoctor to retension and gullet. When things go wrong they are more trouble than a chainsaw.

I think the video shows a gust doing this and attaching the smoke to the other side of the ridge in a Coanda effect. I wouldn't lose to much sleep about finding what is causing the depression in the room, two cheap fixes are adding length and an H cowl to the flue and/or plumbing the outside air direct to the stove to make it room sealed. I have not used that stove heater but did use a cheap Aldi hot air gun and yes it could blow ash out and smoke when lighting the fire. Indeed I have run my particulate sensor and seen, and confirming a recent newspaper article, a definite spike in particulates in the room when reloading, it takes best part of an hour to get back down. So opening the stove as few times as possible should make sense. BTW outside air here is worse and builds up over the evening, whether that is just my particulates settling down or the neighbours' I wouldn't like to say.

Yes I just watched those, I was aware those H cowls where for windy conditions and prevented heavy rain getting into the chimney but have no experience of them, shame they are so ugly. It's definitely an easy enough step to solving the problem

Yes unless you can mount them vertically ones I have fitted seem to work okay with the bubble of air. It would be handy if we had a +1 icon as a choice with the like, laugh, confused or sad

I think I have only come across it on prunus and that is to remove the affected parts and sterilise tools. Also only prune in high summer to prevent it getting in. You need a plant pathologist to advise and I'm not one.

If that were in UK I would say it was silverleaf, a fungal disease

Once it's hot and running you should not be able to see any smoke. I'm a bit paranoid about this as I have fussy neighbours and they were the main reason I changed to a modern stove, and I'm glad I did because it is a lot cleaner burning. I always look to see if there is smoke when going out or coming in. I still have an issue burning holly cleanly.

It's difficult to decide what's happening but it does seem that there is a circulation occurring that is causing cold air to come down the flue until enough heat is warming the chimney so that it creates its own draught. The opening window business suggests there is a slight depression in the room normally so there must be something, like a heated bathroom upstairs with an extraction fan or just a warm room with a window open, causing this. The same thing might happen as the fire dies down and combustion products are sucked into the room.

Only if it is within 2300mm of ridge, if it is further it has to be no lower than the ridge but it must be 1000mm above the roof surface.

In your instance I don't think so. Nearly all natural gas heaters are room-sealed with a balance flue and concentric air intake. The big benefit is if the door seal is good and the stove is shut down there is no chance of CO getting into the room. I don't recommend keeping the stove in as I think it important to maintain a flame to ensure clean burning.

This is a bit worrying. From what you say when successfully lit there is no problem. We have discussed how these modern stoves have a tortuous path for the air to get in as it needs to be preheated before being injected down the glass or as jets through the back, so the flue has to contain hot gases before it pulls enough draught to overcome the resistance. It also seems there must be a thermosyphon happening such that as the fire cools cold air is coming down the flue, bringing combustion products into the room as it replacing hotter air leaving the house through something like a batthroom vent. I would think having the stove room-sealed with cold combustion air from the outside is the safe solution.

Me too it's just mould forming on wood that is still moist. The log looks more like oak to me but you can often make out the dark parts of a circle where the tyloses have formed in the sapwood of infected elm. AFAIK the fungus (whose name has changed again but ?? ulmi) is single celled yeast like so probably has no obvious fruiting body.

I got one years ago for when I was feeding the chipper, it's very heavy so I hardly wear it at all now.

I don't think people were routinely immunised for smallpox here then, indeed I think some outbreaks were caused by inadequately prepared vaccines (the covid19 vaccine here, but not Russia or China, is entirely synthetic). I read that it was 30% fatal, it seems to have been far more deadly when taken to the americas and affected the native population, but as it was spread by the spots bursting it would be difficult not to be aware of it, whereas covid19 is often asymptomatic.

Keeping this only to public and employers liability; what is actually covered if an employee, labour only or free lance employee or sub contractor is injured or injures someone? As I understand it for injuries at work the insurance only covers an employer for his negligence. So if an employee injures himself through no fault of the employer no payout. If the injury happens as a result of the negligence of another employer then it is settled by insurance. I kept personal life insurance till my youngest child was 18 as well as mortgage insurance in case my injuries were my fault (they were).