openspaceman

You need to define accuracy. If the log has been drying the reason you split it is so the meter measures the wettest (worst case). Not having a meter I cannot experiment but I imagine one could get a feel for the average moisture content by comparing an outside reading as well? If readings taken by the meter are consistent and the logs are then oven dried one could decide with what precision the meter measures. For most cases we are discussing here we just want to assure ourselves and customers that the product is less than 20% mc wwb so a reading of 25% mc dwb is good enough for that. Anyway if the reading is marginally close just keeping a sample log in a normal room will increase its chance of passing the grade for a few hours till a second test 😉 I've no way of telling but it's easy enough to check as @Woodworks did recently. It only takes minutes with a microwave but get it wrong and your readymeal has a wood-fired flavour till you buy a new cooker. This article implies that his meter also uses a generic chip that measures the resistance of the log and has a look up table that compares the resistance with known moisture contents and displays a dwb reading. There are other ways, like dielectric that can be used. These chips were developed by companies selling snake oil damp proofing products to otherwise intelligent but gullible home owners. They were so successful that home insurers fell for them hook line and sinker and old houses which had been inhabited for centuries became difficult to insure unless work was done The moisture in a log (sap) has various dissolved salts in it, pure water is a good electrical insulator but the salts plus water make an electrolyte, which conducts electricity. I don't know how the resistance of this electrolyte varies as the concentration changes as the water is lost but imagine it gets higher resistance as it dries. As the pins are a fixed distance apart this removes one variable. So with lots of measurements one can see a correlation with resistance and dryness. This can then build a table by comparing resistances of logs that are then dried in an oven and comparing this oven dry weight with its original weight, the difference being the water.

When we first imported pellet stoves from america 20 years ago we brought in space heaters which we thought ideal for village halls, scout huts etc. large rooms that only needed heating in the early evenings. My boss installed 4 into The Hub, the loft space of a converted warehouse which formed an arts project by Euston station and they worked well. They were nominally 3kW but flat out they moved a lot of hot air with the circulation fan, this fan made them a bit noisy for domestic use. At the time we got pellets for £70/tonne but then the price rose sharply, I kept one in my house for demonstrations but it sits doing nothing in my shed now.

Yes I was confusing reed warbler so not willow warbler and hence no likely link. Mind I'm sure I cannot discriminate any of the warblers though I can recognise meadow pipits and dunnocks

Aren't these two demises linked? I thought the willow warbler was the most frequently parasitised by cuckoo?

In England you should comply with building regulations, part J deals with stoves and flues: Approved Document J | Part J - Combustion appliances and fuel storage systems | Planning Portal WWW.PLANNINGPORTAL.CO.UK Details of Part J (Approved Document J) of the Building Regulations I doubt Scotland is much different. As for choice of burner I have experience of very few but the modern ones approved by defra and meeting the latest standard are the ones to go for, I'd avoid cheap steel or cast iron boxes. Prior to my current Morso 11 I had a Jotul 602 and the Morso is so much better, especially because of the radiant heat given off by the ceramic glass door. @Alycidon knows about what is on the market.

I've got the Gerbing ones for riding and plug them in to the bike, batteries are available but I think they only last 3 hours on low setting. The gloves alone are so expensive I wouldn't dream of using them for work.

The story was that each time a policeman took out his truncheon in anger he had to record the event in his notebook, far easier to carry a D celled maglight around.

A bit like the female cuckoo then

It does reduce the amount of heat lost from the flue gases to the room compared with an uninsulated flue pipe. Whether that is to your loss or not is debatable. Consider the same stove fitted in the recess of a normal fireplace and then into an insulated chimney, the same hot flue gases would be going up the chimney without getting into the room. Also consider if your flue were not insulated it would be too hot for safety without guards and you would need all combustible material to be kept suitably distant from it. Most stoves will have a design temperature at which the flue gas will be entering the chimney when the stove is emitting its maximum heat into the room. Mine is 400C according to Morso, in fact I never see this and aim for it to be around 120-180C to get the most heat out of my wood. Any higher and the heat is being wasted even if more heat is getting into the room from a hotter stove. The intent is that the flue gases leaving the top of your chimney to be above 100C to prevent condensation in the chimney, which is why chimneys are insulated, however mine isn't. I have about 400mm of exposed metal flue pipe between my stove and the register plate of the chimney and read my temperatures near there so my flue pipe is more exposed than yours and must put some heat into the room.

I think there were some Partner saws which diverted the exhaust through the handles but it's all electric now Well it never gets really cold in sunny Surrey but I do switch the heaters on when my gloves get wet from dragging brash, you can switch it off as soon as your fingers are warm again, it doesn't take long ringing a few chogs.

I have read that a bamboo variety grows for a number of years then flowers and dies, don't know about mistletoe but see Distribution maps – Botanical Society of Britain & Ireland BSBI.ORG Type in the name of a plant species to generate a BSBI map showing distribution in Britain & Ireland and changes over time. I read it was birds wiping it off beaks too.

Where are they then? We felled some alder which could be worth milling if anyone interested near Petersfield, the lads whose job it's on could mill it with their Lucas mill. A couple of bits of largish cherry, about 18", a bit bony though, it can be extracted when the land dries out around May.

Certainly isn't holly and as laurel is a prunus plus the end grain looks prunus @Stubby is on the right track but maybe portuguese laurel

I was thinking holly

The main benefit is if you have wet gloves. I never bothered with gloves or heated handles when I started ( never saw heated handles before the 262xpg) but I would advise wearing gloves when using a chainsaw all the time now.

I was just surprised at the amount of hydrocarbons emitted, mostly unburned lubricating oil then. I'll read the article when I get time.

I'm not sure they are not accurate they are certainly quick, I simply don't own one. No harm in occasionally checking it by drying a log now and again. The thing is to sink the probes into a freshly split piece of wood as the middle is likely wetter than the outside.

A more recent one https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/124043-how-does-one-keep-logs-at-20-at-this-time-of-year/?do=findComment&comment=1856466

THC is total hydrocarbons? and they are gaseous rather than particulates? It's a high figure but presumably includes oil flung off the bar?

Yes I agree you need some written (verbal as verbs can be written) and not just an oral (spoken) agreement. An eminent judge said in a judgement where someone had breached such an agreement, and I paraphrase; "a gentleman's agreement is an agreement between two people, neither of whom are gentleman and neither intended to honour the agreement. If it cannot be written down it's not worth having.

I doubt my lungs are up to it. I can see this working with beech's vessels but wonder about conifer or something with heavily lignified heartwood. Any what it demonstrates is lack of cell watare, so at least down to 25%, most of the rest is bound water but the cracking may be showing loss of some of that.

I think you may be confusing this with the plywood Higgins boat that was subsequently adapted with a front gate/ramp as a landing craft, many were built here to the american design and one that was rebuilt for saving private ryan sits on a roundabout at Shoreham

I always thought the name was dreamt up but the only time I went on one for a tour around Boston Ma and it's harbour the driver explained the code and I've just seen it is explained on wikipedia. It lurched quite a bit going into the water and it was several seconds before the driver was able to deselect wheel drive and engage the screw. Similarly getting out was a kerfuffle I think there were several accidents subsequently and wonder if they are used for tours any more. The mechanicals are ordinary 2.5 ton 6x4 truck and as you say it was designed and built in 42 onward very quickly from inception to use.

That's what the D stands for, it was a superlative bit of adaptation better than the monstrosity that the stollie was, obsolete before it came into service.

The Air Quality (Domestic Solid Fuels Standards) (England) Regulations 2020 part of the environment act comes into force May but there is an extension for small producers (<600m3/annum) till May next year There are exemptions but woodsure is the scheme appointed according to the regulations, a bit like CORGI were appointed for gas works and then lost the job to Gasafe.