openspaceman

Yes glad the boss called it off at 06:30 this morning. Mind yesterday's 3/4 day had worn me out felling some 70' alder coppice. tomorrow is looking better for a restart.

All granted and I said it was scary but was hoping you'd show me where some catastrophe had ensued. I do wonder about how it could be CE marked when it doesn't seem to comply with any of the requirements a chipper should have.

Swot I sed

Actually that looks rather good for its chunkiness, it doesn't look like it has the "wings" as high as some others but I'll give it a try. Thanks

I never found a 15" one to fit mine but modified one from another mower and it certainly picked up well for a while till I broke the blade on a stump. It was fine for running alongside hedges after I trimmed them to batter and pick up arisings. I had another 3.5 B&S mower with a rust perforated deck which I recently modified to shred a clump of bamboo for a neighbour, it does a passable job. It also picks up the debris after. Cheaper than hiring a micro chipper and surprising what life is left in people's throw aways. I still have to fit an alternator to it for jump starting dead motors

Go on then give us a link to some damage, the little one I played with did seem frightening but no sign of damage

Yes but why not press the decompression valve back in after it "coughs" on choke and then start it? I find I now prefer to do this on bigger saws as I haven't the energy to "beast" them.

I think the damage you are seeing is cause by a woodpecker after grubs. The insects have been attracted to the necrotic tissue under the bark. What the underlying issue is I can only guess is some sort of trauma the tree has suffered. Has there been a fire anywhere near on the side where the damage is?

Yes I never had one and managed but a steering drawbar would be good for early thinnings, a roof mount is slightly less convenient in early thinnings as you need to travel with the grapple loader over the trailer bunk. This too, crane deployed on sidling ground if there is space. It certainly was and I seldom did more than an 8 hour day whereas it's not unusual to work 12 hour shifts in a modern machine but B* that for a game of soldiers. Flat floor means the loader mount is higher. Yes very much so with an engine driven pump as the big old 6 cylinder lump is ticking over to run the crane for much of the day. I have a slight breathing problem which I put down to this and chainsaw smoke as I never smoked tobacco (or much else after I was 20) Yes, my 1164 has a rotating seat but the hydraulic valve chest and lift yokes have been removed to facilitate it. Also less functionality than a Valtra with reverse drive as you have to turn around to drive.

As I cannot learn new tricks very well I would initially tie the two ends with a double overhand knot and then tie the butterfly with the knot in the loop. I either create two opposing loops, overlap them and pull the middle up through the intersect or wrap three times round my hand and pull the middle loop out from under and then over the lot.

Looks like a rust fungus to me

This is the sort of repair which I find can be done with carbon fibre tape and epoxy if you have 24 hours to cure it.

What I have experienced is similar but not so much resins and 2t oil being left, often in the crankcase which makes initial starting a bit smoky. I haven't started my 084 for a year or three so must try that, not on a day of quiet though.

Is this just a butterfly with the two loose ends where the loop would be? I can never remember how to tie a zeppelin but the alpine butterfly is such a useful knot that to use it to join two ropes is easy. I think it is a strong knot too with about 75% rope strength retainedwhereas the bowline is 60% and sheetbend 50% (mind I cannot see why there is this much difference between the latter two as functionally they seem the same).

Their bluechip was a copy of the Dosko so that doesn't surprise me. Certainly long lived equipment as the chap I help out occasionally still uses both.

I think only the small ones are imported now and dosko show their dealer: Hire Supply Company (UK) Limited Units 7-10 Eldon Road Trading Estate Attenborough Nottingham NG9 6DZ Telephone: 0115 946 1988 Kim at Danequip seems to be able to get spares still and of course sells her own stump grinders

It looks useful so once you have the sucking air sorted out you can look at whether it can be sensibly speeded up. I cannot see from the picture what the difference in diameter of the piston rod from the piston is but a pressure sensed regenerative valve could be inserted between the ram and spool to speed up the power stroke on easy wood, it would then slow down to current speed if it encountered a knotty bit. Breezy looking car there zedvictor1

No harm in checking ram seals but on a double acting ram there is nearly always a zero to positive pressure on both sides of the piston so not much scope for sucking in air there.

So the oil reservoir is the box section that the ram block rides also? If you raise the splitter knife end up on a chog about a foot does it make any difference? I'd change those clear plastic return lines for something less affected by heat than polythene. Once you can be sure the suction side of the pump isn't letting air in then it's most likely the shaft seal on the pump drive.

The triblade worked okay on the stihlelectric kombi with backpack battery I used for a few hours clearing overgrown footpaths but I don't think it would have had the power to run the shredder (mulcher) blade effectively, you really need 50cc for that.

Free if you fish them out of the canal

If you ever get one and fancy a 2.3 engine to put in it I have a rebuilt one with less than 300 miles on it in my garage which needs the head torquing down and rocker shaft put back in

I take it you are referring to the your original picture here? I was considering why the blueing might be worse nearer the bottom of the bar groove, on the assumption that blue shows a higher temperature event than straw coloured. This too would explain the chipped nose in the picture I reposted.

This one strikes me as being caused by a worn drive link having peened a tie strap and making the joint too stiff to straighten as it comes off the sprocket. The original picture looked like blunt chain and too much pressure overheating the bar. I would have liked to see the paint stripped off the bar to see how much of the blueing was caused by abuse and how much was from manufacture because some seemed to be at the groove bottom which might suggest a drive link bottoming out.

Welsh too