Joe Newton

Reckon you could have saved a bit of typing there.

I have never seen an air line damage a filter. From experience of owning this saw I would echo Mark's advice. Good clean with carb cleaner gets rid of the oily residue and a good blast of the airline brings it back to new. Also from experience I would avoid messing with the carb settings if the saw is otherwise running OK. They're fiddly buggers and can be difficult to get back to factory settings.

It's the same as working for people with dog shit covered gardens, or clients who are after the lowest possible price and want to negotiate, or the old dear who doesn't want her spring bulbs and herb garden damaging on a big dismantle. Most of us would rather avoid the aggro of we don't need the work that badly. It's never just going to be a case of turning up and doing the job. You stand to lose money easily so often it's not worth getting involved in.

Got a link for that? Is it reversible? Edit: just saw the link, cheers

Sounds like you're looking for an employee.

Yeah but all of these big boy firms are available to hire. Sometimes the most profitable thing is to be a middleman. Let the small firms price it for their kit. Get a quote from a bigger firm for the job and stick whatever you want on. Easiest money you'll ever make

Their budget is irrelevant to you. Don't make the mistake of "winning" unprofitable work. Suss out how long it'll take you with whatever kit you need and put a good enough amount on for contingency and profit.

Are you talking about the 500i or 2511?

It is infantile. That was my point. So is suggesting that someone from the internet met you to settle your differences the "old fashioned way" Never mind. It's not funny when you have to explain it.

Meet him outside your mums room in ten. Fair enough that was infantile, but you started it!

That would be good to see 👍

I thought that about my 2511 but it's 4 years old now so I'm tempted to get it fiddled with. The bark box on the 500i just makes it anti social. A mate has one and I personally wouldn't bother for whatever gains are to be had.

You are wrong but I don't think there's any point trying to convince you. Go suspend yourself from the core only of XTC and see how you get on. Best of luck.

I'd be interested to know the gains you got from the 500. It feels like a ported saw out the box, and I definitely wouldn't want it any louder than stock

They're normally sold in pairs, but I think you'd benefit from them.

Many arb ropes are 16 strand, where the core only serves to keep the rope round and all the strength of in the cover. You're talking bollocks basically

You're quite right, and he's wrong.

Yeah, but it's a case of finding where you're non compliant. Are your refreshers up to date? LOLER? Are you staying type C trousers? Have you replaced the safety decals on your top handle? I could go on. Basically the insurance will find a fault if they want to. Best not to rely on that. Try and work so that you don't need them.

It's a pretty harsh "sink or swim" scenario as it is. I was thrown in at the deep end like many of us, and luckily I managed to swim. There might've been a couple of fence panels/gutters that took the brunt of my inexperience. Plenty of people achieve a low level of competence and plateau there, some of who will blag their way around. I think if you can manage the first 3-5 years of climbing without doing yourself a mischief you fall into the lower risk category.

I think perhaps the IRATA training system which requires you to have a certain number of hours supervised by a competent person before moving on to the next level could be workable

It was nothing to do with the AA really, they had disappointingly little influence over the whole debacle which was led by HSE

Here's my take: 2 working lines as a blanket policy is ridiculous and I won't do it. However, on large trees to prune it can be really useful. I still detest the tangle of 2 seperate working lines but I've found a really useful compromise which suits me. I have a 45m rope with a skinny splice both ends. Not only does this mean I can install my ZZ from either end, but I also carry a pinto/hitch/crab on my harness. Its multifunctional, from being a progress capture system for my throw hook, or a seperate ddrt system for the tail of my line, or a ddrt redirect or even a light rigging system. Typically I will use it like this: climbing a large open tree I'll set my anchor at the usual place whether ddrt/srt, climb and do my thing until I get to an awkward limb/ second leader. I'll use the throw hook and hitch/pinto on the tail of my line to help get me out there, and when I'm there I put the hook away and the vt/pinto turns into a secondary system with the tail end of my rope. Once I've worked that part of the tree I'll pull out the second system and move on to the next bit. It can really make for a more comfortable work position, and it's they're when needed and not in the way when not. The Gyro swivel on the bridge makes a huge difference in keeping things well oriented. I used it a fair bit in this large turkey oak deadwood from last week.

I just knew someone would post that, and I had a suspicion it would be you.

The need for approval from a bunch of British "pussies" is a bit tragic, to say the least.

Nobody's listening to him anymore on the yank forum, so he bought his videos here in search of attention. Sad really