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muttley9050

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Everything posted by muttley9050

  1. Ditto the above, cheaper to buy direct from chainsaw bars than eBay too.
  2. Just thought I'd bump this, 5 hours left and price looking reasonable.
  3. Second that book, it's great. If you search for it you can download a free pdf of it.
  4. It looks straight from the front, but goes at an angle through the thickness. Probably lose about 20-30 mm from memory. When the sun shines I'll try to dig out the better bit.
  5. Here's some pics of what I have. One piece is pretty perfect for the job. The second unfortunately has a check through it making it not as good. I have a couple of similar longer bits but there buried in a pile so thought I'd start with these. Forgot to take tape down with me but guess on size is 2"x30"x18". The bottom left corner on both has been trimmed off so wave is more prominent than it looks on the waney side but it does start to straighten up towards the right hand side. 2nd pic has check.
  6. Thought this might be of interest to the bandsaw millers out there. Bandsaw Sharpening Machine | eBay
  7. I think I may have a piece like that, give me till tomorrow and I'll check. Can't remember if the board I have is 1" or 2" just remember the wave. How wide will each leg be?
  8. A few years ago I fully restored a 1978 rd250 dx. 2 days after finishing it I parked it behind a friends parked car at another friends house. When he left he reversed straight into it and half ran it over. When he came back in, he said sorry I hit your bike, but it wasn't there when I parked. I would say some things about him but he passed away last year, God rest his soul.
  9. It's ceramic glass, my pops works for a ceramic glass supplier. Last time I broke my glass, about 2ftx1ft, the replacement cost me £2.
  10. Nice work mate. You should try osmo top oil to finish it. Its all I use now on food safe stuff. Easy to apply, goes a long way amd two coats is plenty. Out performs any other food safe finish ive tried. And I tried a few.
  11. Ive made loads of butchers blocks. I always start by gluing up down the longrain as woodworks picture above. Then I crosscut pieces to desired board thickness. Turn on edge again and then glue up again. Its remarkably easy to make an end grain board like this with this method.
  12. Sold the ash frame today for 50. Still no takers for the yew at 75.
  13. I used a top handle on the ground last week, never got fined though:p
  14. No, an angle grinder will wreck the floor, too many nails for a planer. Belt sander would be ok but slow. My preferred options for bringing a floor back to life are either carefully lifting, denailing and through the thicknesser, or using a floor sander.
  15. You can peel them and sell them as tipi poles.
  16. Well done mate, gotta be happy with that, thought it would be more.
  17. Alun, what was your method for getting the first cut flat on such a bendy log?
  18. Good work Rob. How do you find your band mill, do you pack it up after each use, if so how long does it take to set it up?
  19. Amazing work pup, loving it a lot. How was it all fixed together?
  20. As above broom handle or bolt, easy fix.
  21. I was taught in my apprenticeship that as a rule domestic concrete 4" no mesh, commercial 6" with mesh. Anything a tractor or lorry is likely to be regularly driving on should be 6" reinforced in my mind. Yes it may be ok if you leave the mesh out, or lay it thin, but if it ain't your going to be gutted.
  22. I once knew a guy who couldn't climb a tree or drive a dumper. I did however watch him one day get a good 5 ft up an oak tree before the dumper fell over. I would say on this day he gained a lot of experience in how not to climb trees and how not to drive a dumper in one foul swoop!
  23. The plural is octopuses or octopi according to oed
  24. I would go 6" reinforced with a124 mesh. Will be super strong. However Marcus may disagree.
  25. I'm a builder/ground worker. My input is. Go 6" , Will be there forever and will be stronger with an amateur laying it. Don't bother with premix, knock it up yourself. Will be cheaper and you can have a day at getting it right not a mad hour. Lay a strip along the back wall level and tamped. Lay a metre or so strip down each side. Tamped and level. Fill the middle of this bit in, learn to lay it about right with the back of a shovel and then Tamp off the side strips as you go. Lay another strip down each side and continue as above. Gives you plenty of time to lay it right and have the odd tea break as your going. Don't knock it up too wet and it will be easy.

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