Daniël Bos
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Everything posted by Daniël Bos
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Must be just the picture (I see this on a phone.. ) but to me it looks like the centre section if the "head" is decayed?
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But the bit of Apple this beech handle is fixed to is surely weak?
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Looks pretty, but do you not think that's just not the right piece of wood? It broke once before and its not hard to see why.
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Another way of preventing the dip on entry/exit is to lay your guide (ladder/plank etc) on again. Is slightly more work but produces faultless ends...
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The only way I can see to make that work is to use a turntable trailer to avoid the issue of the nose weight being so variable. Would be more maneuverable too, though requiring of a good driver.
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Lower it onto it. If you just put it in place and leave the tipper up, how would you know it will hold if the ram/pipes fail? The sudden drop from a falling tipper is a much greater force than the same body gently lowered onto the prop. Be safe.
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Am I right in thinking these are produced seasonally.....:sneaky2:?
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You'll just have to man up and learn how to swing an axe properly, you won't need to bash it then....
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Don't know how much birch you have but how about a birch bark roof like the Scandinavians used to build before they went all ikea...
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Ten Cate Top-Tex. Cut it in small sheets to cover individual boxes rather than the whole stack. You can tie it on with just a bungee on each corner.
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I use the following: 10" on ms180 15" on 550xp 20" on 365xt/372xt 36" and 46" on ms880 on the mill...
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I don't think many people know what base their chain oil is made from? (Apart from TCD obviously, resident oil-geek extraordinair). I used to only use Stihl non-bio without any problems. I now use rape oil exclusively without issues, for a few reasons: Its fully biodegradable (and properly so, not just under test environment s...) It has undergone no processing, minimising its carbon footprint. Its grown pressed and packed in Britain, again minimising Cfp. Its completely safe to handle. Its available everywhere, any corner shop sells it. Its much easier to wipe of the saw if you spill some in it. Its cheap! It works well. ( I deduce that from the fact I've never had a chain snap from wear-induced weakness, my bars wear at the same or slower compared to when I used Stihl oil. ) In short: in my opinion "proper" chain oils offer no real benefits over rapeseed oil. Chain oil = snake oil?
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I found the t540 one, I'll add it to my next order from Honeys when I next need summat probably. I have a solution now, thanks chaps, but... The hedgetrimmer ones confuse me, I looked for descriptions of them, found the 325he4 to supposedly have an auto return switch, googled a parts list but the part number comes up the same as the one for the saws?
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Echo part?
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Got a link? My searches lead nowhere again?
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There normally is and it has quite a lot of other info on it too, it's called a man-something?
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I have a 550 and it has the auto-return switch, I love it. I have a 365xt as of lunchtime today and it doesn't have an auto-return switch, it's switch is clunky and not great. I read on here about someone who fitted an auto-return switch to their saw, but my searches so far have been fruitless. I've spent literally minutes and minutes googling and searching on here and ebay and baileys and such, but nothing... So, who has an after-market auto-return switch on their Husky? Where did you get it? how much pennies? Cheers, Daniel.
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Ah well, you live and learn. At least it's an easy issue that's easily rectified and has hopefully done no permanent damage apart from the chain?
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It looks like a new bar, was it on a new saw? If so, it was the spacer that mr Husqvarna put in to stop the clutch cover warping as the bar nuts are tightened with no bar on. When you first put the bar on, it should have been taken off. If it wasn't the bar was on wonky and the chain running off-center explaining all your symptoms...
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So will other products you make (the above thingie baffles me completely, does it have summat to do with climbing trees?) be called: The Ultimatum, Supremacy, and Identity?
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I hope it serves you well Adam, and puts a smile on your face when you need it most:thumbup1: I do miss it a bit, I suppose I'll just have to get over it:001_smile: Have you been using up the Aspen I gave you? Whaddaya think?
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Maybe you could find a middle way? If you let your boss know that you're not 100% confident but are willing to give it your best, and does he still want you to do it? It gives you a carte blanch to make mistakes, without losing face. And if you get it all perfect it shows your employer you're able and willing to push your boundaries and thrive under challenging circumstances. I've had people work for me who told after they'd made a right mess they'd never done that job before. Infuriating to say the least, if they'd told me in advance I'd have set them up for success for both them and me. PS I'm mildly worried about your postcount......
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I did an exhaust mod on my 550xp the other day as it's out of warranty now. It has really woken the saw up, it wasn't really that snoozy to begin with but boy does it make a difference. In bar length oak (15") it's quicker than my 880 (with a 46" bar...) It sounds a bit different but not really much louder which is good and took all of 40 seconds. I'll try and remember to take some pics later in the week.
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Just checked, but unfortunately you're wrong. The ones on offer are Ripeur 1, which are similar but don't have any cut resistance on the back of the glove. Ripeur 2 are the ones you want. PS I don't really get commission, though I wish I did.
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What are you all on about? I got it on the floor didn't I?
