Daniël Bos
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Everything posted by Daniël Bos
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Try asking at http://www.treehugs.nl
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Looks great, think it would benefit from some diagonal bracing though?
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My trusty sidekick: Likes to snooze on top of the dash when it's cold out but sunny, and always makes sure I don't overfill the oil!
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If that's your thing, go for it! But do you tidy up the job site first or not?
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I'd go stihl ms 241 and get it ported. I suppose you're going to have to live with a little less power. (but to be honest, if wielding the weight of a 60cc saw us an issue, a less powerful saw is probably wise?) The difference between 50 and 60cc saws isn't much so I'd step down another notch.
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I think these are just covered in a resin epoxy of some sort you should be able to dig it out, then adjust as needed.
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I thought it was not just the effect of the "topical application" but also the much increased levels of urea in the soil? I'm sure I read something somewhere about such, I'll try and find it.
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Common misconception, but it's bollocks. http://www.taxresearch.org.uk/Blog/2016/03/13/the-conservatives-have-been-the-biggest-borrowers-over-the-last-70-years/
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I have a couple of 5105's, lovely saws, sturdy built. No electrickery carbs No primer bulbs No decomp buttons No problems starting hot or cold. I would say this though, mine arrived with cat exhausts, which I'm not dead keen on. Changed for the cat-free exhaust made the saw run much nicer, then I gutted one of the cat exhaust and opened it up a little and performance is well past my 550xp (which was also exhaust enhanced) As for comparison to the 115, the 115 is lighter and has more power. I looked a lot on German forums before buying though, and everyone that's used or owns both said they'd take the 5105, so maybe the power rating is more of a paper exercise? (or maybe the figures from 20years ago were measured differently?)
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Parking a trailer on double yellow lines
Daniël Bos replied to kevinjohnsonmbe's topic in Business Management
Add £100 to y'r price, leave the trailer where it needs to be provided it's not causing a dangerous situation. -
Aspen ages, that is: it gets older. It does not deteriorate with age like pump petrol/2t mix.
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After reading your other thread, it seems the issues started after using old fuel, and after that you tried aspen?
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The conversion is 12.6k euro plus vat, plus the cost of the base vehicle.
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I'd contact husky UK directly, see what they reckon. [email protected]
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I have "led autolamps" they have a good website and sell through eBay too. http://www.ledautolamps-uk.com/en/products
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Petition for statutory protection for ancient woodland
Daniël Bos replied to felixthelogchopper's topic in General chat
Done. -
I have actually, but admittedly just for a play at the saw-shop. All I was trying to point out that regardless of the tensioner, the bar nuts should hold the bar. It may point to another issue if they don't. I wasn't suggesting you're limp-wristed or some such, just that there may be another cause than the tensioner.
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I hope you get on well with it. However, there is no way the bar is going to make any difference to your chain tension issues. The bar nuts hold the tension, not the tensioner so whatever means of tensioning you use the result will be the same.
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"ten cate toptex" is your answer. It looks a bit like felt, let's air (and thus evaporated moisture) through, but water runs off it provided it's sloping. It dries timber much better than tarps as air still flows, for the same reason it's much less probe to getting blown to shreds. It's really quite tough as well, and any tears/punctures don't "run"
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What are you paying for Aspen fuel?
Daniël Bos replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in Aspen Fuel
18.99 Inc vat. Today I get no discount as I'm not pretty -
I kneel, engine between the legs, bar clamped in a log. A cut in the log, a bit deeper than the height of the bar, wedge it in with the scrench so the chain doesn't catch on the wood. It holds better than any stump vice I've ever used, and you can use it with woid as thin as 3" (try getting a stump vice secure in a 3" stump...)
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Same here... .
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No recommended brand, but get one that locks onto the valve without having to hold it with a decent amount of hose between the valve and the gauge. Inflating is much easier when you can stand upright, but more importantly you can position yourself out of the danger zone. (have a look on YouTube for some funny vids on just how much stored energy is released when a tyre blows)
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There was a member who used this technique a lot. I'll try to remember his username. (someone will know, made shiny finished high quality stuff, bits of stainless and glass here and there, avatar picture of a husky dog I think. Couldn't take criticism so went off in a huff and never came back) Pretty sure he posted a thing or two about setting things (ball bearing balls etc) in resin. Edit: memory recovery, thunk it was trollspiel (sp?)
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Sorry.... So the dolmar is an obese "generation X" saw. all lard, on the dole probably, avoid at all cost...
