wyk

The 395 is based on the 394, which itself was based on one of the last 2 series saw they sold, the 288. In reality, the 395 is really a 295 in spirit. It shares very little aside from perhaps the front AV spring with the 3 series model. The layout and construction are more of an evolution of the 288. Whereas the 390 is basically a larger 372. Thus, the 395 is slightly easier to work on, has a solid mounted intake and larger carburettor, very generous and very robust oiler, as well as an overbuilt chassis. The 395xp weighs almost exactly 2lbs more than the 390xp. With even mild porting if you know what you are doing, the 395 and 394 become monsters. If I were felling and had to choose between the two, I would choose the 390(I used a ported 385XP felling in Oregon). If I were chunking huge pieces of oak, then the 394 or 395. If I were buying new, I would get a 572xp, or whatever is gonna replace the 390. The 572 has the power of a stock ms660 and is a pound lighter. Not saying I am a fan of the eletronics, but good look finding a new 390 or 395.

It isn't as smooth as full, but it will last quite a bit longer. And even when dull, and sometimes even rocked, will still cut as it uses the entire top plat to cut, vs just the tip on full chisel. Once the tip on full chisel goes, the tooth stops cutting entirely and then becomes nothing but drag. On semi, you have to destroy the entire top plate to stop it cutting. Easier to sharpen(faster, and you don't have to ensure the angles are as close as on full), and the way the cutter is formed makes the file fit right in to place automatically. On a ported saw, you won't see much difference in speed unless you are cutting cookies. I use it on all my saws if I can. Some folks use it without knowing because they have 3/8LP and 325 bars with semi chisel chain on them. I also get more use out of each semi chisel chain than I do out of full chisel. Chainsawbars.co.uk usually have them in stock and ship fast.

If anyone need some MS241 parts, let me know. I am parting this one out. It's has a bad control module far as I can tell, but I refuse to invest more in to it on general principle. New white fuel solenoid installed. Will idle, wont rev.

Or the BMW propeller, Hitachi bomb site, Mitsubishi propeller(ZERO's), and the original VW symbol was a swastika....*cough* I didn't see any 330 anniversary specials available, tho. Anyone got a nice 572 they wanna let go of, btw?

If it's for the chipper, the 2511WES is a rear handle, and that might be a bit easier to use on the ground.

Thanks for the endorsement! I have a man looking at it today - but we know how these things go. Still, I am over in Ireland, so shipping could be an issue.

Feel free to send me a PM. Both saws are in this vid:

If anyone is interested in a mildly ported 10mm 044 or 281/288 lemme know. We are upgrading our saws here on the estate.

My guess is you are noticing the leak because the oil is discoloured. It's likely been there a while now.

A timing advance on the Echo CDi ignition systems seems to have no effect on performance. The Echo already greatly advances the timing when it's in the cut. It does't even really help the pick up/revving.

Those pieces are eventually moved to a pallet stack made of potato boxes to dry. A hint for other firewooderz, asking local potato or beet farmers if they have old wood boxes they need to get rid of is a good idea. They are huge, easily repaired if damaged, and make great pallets to dry and move wood in, and can be burned once they break down too much. We usually drag them over to the pile on the tractor, use the scoop to fill them, then drag the pallet back to the stack. I never got a photo of them since it's sort of a boring photos, but this is an idea what they can look like. Ours are built with 12X2's instead of 4X2's, tho, and are 4 foot by 8 foot:

I recall this bouncing around 12K in the wood when I had the tach to it. This is a 4300 I did for Shavey. Tuned to just bounce off the limiter at 13.6 or so:

12-12.6K in the cut according to the tacho, Tuned to 14.5K out of the cut. I would consider this far too hot to run as a work saw(and have since sold it off). But I learned a lot about it having had it all apart:

Do not use Sunflower oil if you can avoid it. It will oxidize much faster than Rapeseed, and it doesn't lubricate quite as well. It tastes lovely, tho. I've said it before and I'll say it again; I set my oilers to maximum, and I run straight rapeseed oil you buy from the grocer. Have been doing so since 2010. It works just fine and has saved me far more in oil expenses than it has caused any issues with my bars and chains. It is also biodegradable and does not cause any health issues that petroleum oil can. I've made a lot of firewood and felled a lot of trees over the years, nearly all of it with ported saws and long bars. If you work in very hot conditions, or stump a lot of trees or mill, you may want something thicker, but in the UK and Ireland, I haven't had issues cutting in freezing weather and in temps above 32C. I'm usually far less happy than the saw is in that weather. When I remove a bar to dress it, I flip it. I dress my bars and clean them out often depending on the conditions. Dressing bars is kind of like sharpening kitchen knives. If you use a light touch with a sharpening hone every time before you use the knife, it stays sharp and useful for a very long time. Abuse it, and the knife stops cutting worth a damn, becomes dangerous now that you have to actually use force to make it cut, and you have to bust out the stones and spend a long time putting the edge back on that knife afterwards. A chainsaw is like a knife this way; when tuned right, you should not have to use much pressure. The saw does all the work. Use a light touch and clean and redress your bar often, vs a heavy touch and rarely. And flip it, flip it good. USGS test on rapeseed based bio oils: https://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/html/98511316/98511316.html Croation Forestry Dept test showing rapeseed based bio oils can run cooler: http://www.crojfe.com/site/assets/files/3945/stanovsky_83-90.pdf The usual mess I make:

I think a few have. Best ask @shavey. I think Makita was avoiding it at first because their homeowner/DIY electric brands were orange in Europe. The saws look great in either colour as Makita blue is rather unique, but red is harder to lose in the brush. And 4300's can be made to run!

You are better off using semi chisel or micro chisel chain. It is far easier to sharpen, and it will still last a long time in dirty and seasoned hard woods, even encountering a bit of metal, and cost much less(especially since you will need a good electric chain sharpener for the carbide). Carbide chain is better for rescue saws and cutting sleepers or old powerline poles with loads of metal in them. CSB are one of the few people that always stock semi chisel and micro: CUSTOM CHAIN LOOP - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK Select your pitch & gauge for results. All of this had been sitting for a year in mud and dirt. Not a bother using semi chisel chain, even for the wire and the nails. You sharpen it much less and it wears much less in this sort of environment.

I'm in County Wicklow just south of Dublin. I also visit an estate outside of Clonmel in Waterford on occasion.

It should state on the bar what chain it takes.

On a new saw, I will let it warm up mostly at idle, with the mix set a bit rich for a heat cycle and to make sure there is plenty of oil in the internals. That is maybe 60 seconds or so of it just sitting there idling while I prepare all my other gear to cut with it. Shut her down. Check it over to make sure nothing is loose or improperly set, start her up and then I go cut. For a ported saw when I have just put it all together, I will let it idle for several heat cycles depending on the saw. The bigger it is, the more cycles I will give it(60 seconds of idle, then off for a bit the first time, with some throttle the next 2-3 times). This is mainly to ensure all the internals get oil, the ring starts to break in a bit over the larger ports, and I am sure nothing is trying to come off the saw. If I have the wherewithal at the time, I may even try to figure out where all the left over bolts should have gone.

As Steve said earlier, one thing that I see when people bring saws in is the bar being poorly looked after. What will really hurt performance is not only the rails being uneven or not dressed properly, but the gutter being worn as well. The more movement the chain is allowed on the bar, the worse your cutting performance will be. Like with at least one other thing in life I can think of, you want a tight groove that's properly lubricated.

The 261 was the non xp version. I had a ported 261 chassis with 262xp parts all over it at one point. The main difference was the cylinder.

If you remove the cat or have a straight thru/DP muffler, the cooling plate is not nearly as necessary. The muffler won't get anywhere near as hot as the factory cat one does and the air flow will be plenty except if you are working in Texas or sumfin.. One thing I noticed at least here in Ireland is BAHCO files are cheaper than most others. The last time I bought a set, they were made by OBERG. Oberg make very high quality files, and used to fetch a premium when I was working in the PNW, with some folks only ever using Oberg.

I wouldnt bother getting a 24 for the 44 unless absolutley essential. My 440 wasnt amazing on 25" much handier on a 20" 044's are ported more stoutly than most 440's from the factory. Some might have a cat. Once removed, it makes a big difference. Here's mine before I ported it. Just a muffler and timing advance with factory porting and a 24 inch bar in seasoned oak.

I would quote exactly what you said in your feedback and do not put a positive mark. This way they may think twice before doing this to someone else. What you got was not what you ordered. It will work just fine, but it is not what you ordered. I use semi chisel exclusively because I do not work in clean conditions often. If I received full chisel when I ordered semi chisel, I would send it back because it just would be a waste of time having to sharpen it so often.