wyk

Can ya see if it's got a cat inside?

Here's some dancing for ya - Dolmar 420/Makita 4300. It ended up at 2400rpm after I put it together before I tuned it. Same RPM my 288xp idles at. So it's trying to move like Jagger here.

There's barely one pound difference between those two saws. However, the 268 is an alloy chassis that was built to last, and run strong when properly tuned. Most had a Tillotson carb that can still be ordered new from Tralee, Ireland this day. If it is a bit heavy, you may want to try a lightweight bar instead. The 455 is a plastic chassis, and not meant for much use. Now if you were going to go for something like a 50cc saw, it would make more sense from a weight savings standpoint.

I'll do the seem if it is a front mounted flange muffler where the bolts hold it on. I do prefer the Stihl two piece ones, tho. Like this one here, just purring along quietly. The neighbours prolly didn't even notice it was on

This 361 had a 1 inch port out the side. I'm not a fan of stuff sticking out the front of the exhaust unless it is a standard Stihl ported cover. The 361 muffler has a lot of junk inside of it and must be completely gutted to make much of a difference. Simply adding another port doesn't really help so much. Some aftermarket mufflers come without the guts, tho. Here it is, ported, in a nootka yellow cedar on a mountainside. These are quite a bit harder than red cedar. It gives you an idea of the noise:

I set this page up a little while ago with info from a site stateside. Unofficial Chainsaw Bar Weight Gallery Photo Gallery by WYK at pbase.com PBASE.COM

Bring a hockey mask and a full tank, and no one's gonna say a thing.

All the name brand 2t mix oils claim to have fuel stabilisers in them. How much, and how long can the fuel last, I dunno. But it will likely last longer than your octane will. In mixed fuel, the octane rating starts to degrade the second it is mixed, and depending on your quoted source, can be as much as 10% less octane within 3-4 months. Then there's the ethanol issue. I think there was a guy did some testing on it with stabilisers... might have been the farm guy. Lemme see if I can find the link... Here we are: Personally, I just use the saws. Seems to keep the fuel the freshest. So not much to contribute there. The only thing is maybe that I have a Husky strimmer that is 15 years old that I only use in spring, and maybe a couple of times in summer. Never added anything to the fuel other than mix, and it spends 99.9% of it's life sitting with a fuel tank maybe 1/4 full that I empty before use. Never a problem. It paid for itself long ago.

Well, at least castor 2t will disperse better in it?

Funny you should say that. I was greasing the 288 because, when I had it apart, the bearings were obviously never lubricated and very worn. I replaced them and greased them. Much smoother.

Reminds me of a conversation I had a while back when I was lubricating the clutch bearing on a 288xp. Estate Owner: 'What is that?' Me: 'A grease gun. I'm lubricating the bearings and the bar tip' Owner: 'We have to lubricate these things?'

The porting is rather mild because I liked how much I got from the exhaust mod. No timing advance. But it gives you an idea what the differences can be. Same wood, same saw, same dude. The ported saw might have done better if it wasn't clogging the clutch side with chips.

Have you still got that Simonized 372xp? That was the angriest 372 I have ever tried. Wish I still had the video. I know the forums are a great place to argue, but I'm not sure there's much to debate here. In the last few years I have worked in Europe I have seen ported saws really begin to take hold. In my opinion, you either run them or not. Hell, I even have an 044 that isn't ported and a 288 that's only mildly warmed over. It takes all kinds.

Use the right tool for the job. It's a good idea to be practical and pragmatic, but there is a point where you must compromise. When it comes to tools, what's more important is the job gets done efficiently, effectively, and affordably, and maybe even safely. The tool needs to conform to these aspects first before being uniform. In fact, the very phrase of having the best tool for the job means that the tools shall differ. It's logistics versus practice here. I would stick with 325 on the 40-50cc saws(and I also prefer it on 30cc saws as well), and 3/8 on the larger saws. Even on strongly ported 50cc saws, I still prefer 325 - smoother, smaller kerf, lasts well enough, and we now have a large amount for choice in various 325 chains for different jobs.

Had enough time to take a vid of my own 044 today. This is nearly bone stock. Just a timing advance and a few more holes in the rear cover. Unported.

It sounds like a carb tuning issue. Echo's can be fairly lean from the dealer sometimes. But removing the baffle tube from the exhaust - it simply unbolts from the muffler outlet and slides right out, might help a bit too as it's rather restrictive on that model. If you have an Echo chainsaw, you should also own a double 'd' tuning screwdriver to tune the carbs with. Bear in mind the Walbros on Echos tend to be sensitive to tuning, turn the driver in small increments and test the throttle and the saws response. Opening the fuel tank in hot weather if a saw has been sitting helps on most any saw. Take the opportunity to top it off, as this will also cool the fuel in it. Er, unless you leave your fuel in the sun...which I don't suggest you do.

Lol. Carving all day with tipper is shan on the wrists. Probs the same of hedgelaying all day It's a 'forest for the trees' thing. If you swing around a hammer all day long, everything looks like a nail. Having more options and more tools for the job isn't likely to hurt.

Those lovely Japanese folks are hard at work at producing them as we speak.

Gut the muffler on that 7910 and advance the timing a bit, and they really come alive.

If anyone is looking for a good 044, feel free to contact me.

The arb world is gunna lubbit. I would love one for carving and for the christmas turkey: CS-2511WES coming soon. WWW.ECHO-TOOLS.CO.UK A revolution in rear handle chainsaw technology, the CS-2511WES is a game changer. #smallbeast coming...

By virtue of being 1128, it's a 10mm saw. Mine is also a 1128 vintage. It also makes it a later 10mm, which were the stronger of the bunch. What Stihl did, tho, was detune it with a cat and retard the timing a touch. Advancing the timing 6* or so(.025" of the woodruff key), and removing the cat makes these saws run very strong. If you remove the gasket for more compression, I would stick with .020 of the key just to be safe. So, yes, that original cylinder is worth saving if you can.

OK, I've moved on to another saw. Does anyone want to make an offer on a 281xp for parts - let me know.

If it's an early 90's, it's nearly guaranteed to be a 10mm saw. Take a photo of the top of both cylinders. A serial # under about 1129 is an older, stronger 10mm version. If possible, clean up the old cylinder. Early 044 and 046 cylinders were the best Stihl ever made. Replace the catalytic converter if it's still in there with a new muffler, even if it is aftermarket. That cat has killed so many 10mm 044's If it is an auto choke version, which it sounds like it is, then the lack of impulse passage makes sense. If it is not an auto choke carb, you need the standard cylinder set up. At least that's what I was told... I haven't seen an auto choke in person. One thing to be mindful of, is that if you place a 12mm jug on a 10mm chassis you want to be sure the ring pins on the 10mm piston clears the port.

Either a Dolmar/Makita from @shavey or an Echo from @RobD before those two Husky or Stihl options you've mentioned. They are made better in that price range.