wyk

I use semi chisel most of the time. Go to RObD's site chainsawbars.co.uk for some more options. Also, remove the baffle and open up the exhaust on that 261 and it will be very mean. Loud, tho:

I like the bruntons and suunto's. Affordable, accurate, and light. I dunno how accurate the new breed of digital are, but the ones I used back in 2012 weren't very impressive, and rather large and heavy. When I worked for a contractor for Weyerhauser in Washington State, we used Spiegel Relaskopes. They are not cheap, nor light...but we had to measure boles as well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relascope

Bars are like legs. You only just need to have enough to reach the ground.

Just a heads up, Mr Info collector, Echo uses mainly PA6-GF30 like everyone else making saws do. Only a select few polymers fit the sort of use and abuse saws will experience, so expect all the major makes to use the same stuff.

Man, children are so lucky it isn't legal to kick them anymore. Society is crumbling.

Chances are those nuts and washers are available at most hardware shops, and many places on line. The saws IPL should specify what it is.

That 6100 has a reed valve in it. If that carb allows, you can have rather generous intake duration on the intake side without it regurgitating mix back out the front or causing tuning issues.

Hrm, I wonder might that explain why the Echo/Shindaiwa 390 doesn't have a circlip retainer on the pto side...

I saw Randy on the OPE mentioning he had to send sumfin to our side of the world and wondered what it might be. Didja get some custom profiled square chain as well? Looking forward to the vids.

The Echo has a rather large rubber gasket on the tanks. The good news is it won't leak. The bad news is you have to be mindful and not cinch it down like you would on some other saws. Just snug it does the trick.

That's an unlikely situation since few folks limb trees while walking them in the UK with longer bars like they do stateside, but it does show how it really does depend on how the saw hits the trousers and with what.

Well, it does and it doesn't, but that's a different debate. My point is with a longer bar, it takes longer for the kevlar threads to become wrapped up in the sprocket - disabling the saw. This means there is more chain that can gather the kevlar, and more of an opportunity for the chain to defeat the protection before the saw is jammed. On a large, powerful saw at full blast, it's something that can make a difference. On a 12-24" bar on your typical makes used in the UK, likely not.

@RobDis out of stock at the moment, but you still might want to give them a shout and see what they can do for you so you can keep your saws and support costs down: https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/cs-501sx-echo-powerhead-only-with-325-rim-sprocket/ If it's Dolmars you're considering, there's @shavey

What are they asking for 501sx's in your area?

Chainsaw trousers work by clogging the sprocket, forcing a jam. The more powerful the saw is and the longer the bar is, the more likely it may defeat the protection. Having said that, I have used kevlar straps in a lot of applications stateside for hauling equipment. It is very difficult to cut kevlar with even the sharpest knife or razor. So a powerful saw isn't likely to actually cut the fibres so much as power through longer before it jams. Be mindful out there, folks.

If it isn't a scam, some folks do shy away from paypal for many reasons. I bought a Harley in the UK off EBay and he only would accept cash after a down payment. He wouldn't even take credit cards because visa hammers sellers on occasion in disputes(which, unfortunately, is true). But dealers are easy enough to confirm. I am down below Dublin in Wicklow - about 2.5 hrs from Belfast. Where in the north is it? I can't find the listing, tho.

I only deal with inches when it comes to squish. I'm just dumb that way. The usual accepted spacing is .020", or near enough. As mentioned earlier, the fuel is 'squished' out of this band and into the combustion chamber. Often, whatever fuel is left in this band does not combust fully. So the closer the tolerances up to about .020", the better. Any closer and you are risking damage, especially if you are using something like a £20 tool from a former British Colony in Asia VS something like an expensive Mitutoyo or SPi Micrometer to gauge the depths. If you are considering doing port work, you may want to first spend time learning on something like a used, worn out two stroke motor VS a functioning 390XP top end. I began my porting days working on <$100 Echos that needed repair(so I could see the results VS using a destroyed engine). I would also spend a good amount of time on one of the outdoor power equipment forums porting threads beforehand to better grasp the nuances of porting. I learn something new there every time I visit. I don't build ultimate performance engines, and nor do you have to, but its good to know where to spend your limited time and efforts for maximum returns, let alone simply preventing making mistakes(like ring ends, free porting, bad timing, damaged plating, clearance issues, etc etc etc). In general, with porting, less is more.

Haven't had it for too long now, but purdy happy with it. The exhaust outlet cover does need to be longer. I assume this is simply robbed from the CS501SX and chunked on to the 390 since they look identical. With the cat removed, it doesn't spew it as directly upon the handle as stock(and not as hot, either), but I can still see it going to work on it. Otherwise, very, very impressed with this saw. A poster who has had one apart on another forum claims it is the same stroke(33mm) as the 501. I haven't tested it myself, but it would go a ways to explaining why these have so much mid range grunt.

He might be sharpening deeper down in to the gullet, or using a different offset from you, getting a different hook, etc etc. I never change my file size, but I go pretty deep in to the gullet to retain the hook, often grinding in to the end of the link before the cutter. The tip/hook is what you start to lose as the tooth gets more shallow.

Any more than that and your kerf is gonna shrink too small for your bar. Well, mebbe not the kerf, per se, but it's not gonna chew up the wood effectively enough to clear out the cut.

I can't confirm this, but SGFoley in Germany stated he ran a 501sx exhaust(without cat and baffle tube) in his 390sx.

I started repairing my own saws because, back when I actually had money, I went to the dealer and asked them could they fix such and such on my thingy mubob, and they basically told me it wasn't worth their while or mine. It was something simple, too. I went to the local independent saw shop in Willamina, OR on my way back after some of the other loggers told me where to go(though he did have a Stihl contract and dealt almost solely in Stihl saws), which has a super grumpy owner(or had, it looks like he's closed since). Anyways, I showed him my old 046, he took it, went out back in to the shop, and came back within 2 minutes with it repaired. That guy knew his stuff, and had ported two stroke bikes back in the day. He told me what he did, and how to fix it in the future, and then refused to take money from me. From then on I was only using him for my saw needs. He explained the local dealers sell lawn mowers. So they want their techs to be free to set up new equipment for sale and repair riding lawnmowers - they make hundreds and thousands on those two, so do not want to waste their tech's time repairing saws. Some of them have never had a saw apart.

First - that's a terrible design(and I own a similar Echo as well). The exhaust should be directed more outwards(which I did by virtue of opening the bottom of that vent cover and the muffler underneath), and the cage should have a larger relief in case of roll over(you listening, Echo?). Otherwise, we love ours. I was told, back when I had a future in university, that if you must explain to an operator how to coddle your product designed for the field, you have created a terrible design. As for the bearings - at idle, the saw has disengaged the PTO/clutch, and there is much less load on those bearings, and there's much less friction/heat than at throttle. It's the piston that gives up the ghost rapidly without oil. The puff of smoke is likely more due to incomplete combustion on the front of the timing advance and the high speed jet kicking in than lack of enough lubrication.

Just regurgitating what google told me about all this nonsense