wyk

And there's a bit of video now: https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=12190151

The words you're looking for here, Stubby, are inertia/momentum. Torque is the measure of the turning force of a device. HP is the amount of work the device can do over a period of time. Momentum is the amount of kinetic energy an object has. Inertia is the object's resistance to motion. In an engine, you need to balance all it's aspects and design it for whatever use you intend. If you remove a flywheel from a saw, you'll see it could easily be made thinner and lighter. It's the weight it is for a reason. The flywheel has to do a lot of things in a modern saw - redirect air, trip the coil, balance the crank assembly, set the timing, start the engine, add inertia, and store momentum. In fact, most cars had flywheels installed mainly for momentum. It made the engines run more smoothly, with less vibration, and hold RPM's better when a force was applied(whether external or internal).

Same issue twice on my 241. I ditched it and went with an Echo 390ESX from RobD, AKA ChainsawBars.co.uk Too bad, too, cause I ported it and it would run strong for a while before it died:

I'll just leave this here... https://www.thejournal.ie/new-zealand-deported-4442504-Jan2019/

So the consensus is no chemicals, hand removal, it will benefit the trees structure and livelyhood. Got it. Cheers, folks.

This situation is more like your second statement than the first. It's thick and it's been in the tree decades. Symbiotic at this point. The tree is in a plane that perennially floods since it is not far off the river Suir. So, any structural damage will be tested on a yearly basis. I would hate to remove the ivy only to find the tree collapsed the next flood.

We've plenty of ivy on the estate. There's no shortage of ivy in Ireland, far as I can tell. My main concern is the health of this tree. I have been removing ivy from it piece by piece over the last couple of years(it's large even by PNW standards), so it's unlikely going to be shocked. I was mainly wondering if there was a chemical means safe for the tree that would slow the growth of the ivy so I could attack the crowning ivy without having to put a climber in to what could be a rather unsafe situation, and risk less damage to the bark with forcible removal.

Stick with rapeseed and it won't be an issue. Having said it, I feel a compressor is a necessity if you use a chainsaw. I use one virtually every day to clean the saws before and after I true the bars, etc.

It's actually a bit better than you see in that pic since I have done a bit of pruning after it was taken. It has a very healthy canopy in spring. But I never was comfortable leaving all that ivy on it.

I think I can use one of our teleporter buckets from the coop and start maybe 10 feet up in it. I somehow doubt this will be a morning job. It's all around the trunk, which is about 7 feet DBH or so.

I suppose I will have to try and start up higher in the trunk and work down.

Ain't no silky gonna put a dent into this - it's flush with the trunk and huge. I'll have to plunge cut. That stuff is hard as a rock. So I assume the green runners are deep inside. I did a plunge with a small chainsaw you can see if you look closely, and it went in several inches without pulling out anything green or fresh. I imagine I will have start with a chainsaw carefully until I can start prying it out. I am gonna try and get a photo from inside the base there to see if that shows anything. It's too small a hole to fit my big fat head in to. Otherwise, I see a lot of slow painful rooting about in my future.

Other than going up in to the tree, there's only so much cutting can be done as it is very well entrenched into one of the buttresses I'm afraid of damaging the tree. Lemme see if I can get a picture... That axe is just shy of 2 feet in length.

Howdy folks. I was hoping I could get some suggestions on this old ash tree we have on the estate. It's not in any danger of destroying anything if it falls or decays, but we want to preserve it if possible. I have done a few conservative cuts and prunings on this tree to slow the Ivy as the owner did not want to use herbicide at the time. But the ivy is just out of control and their roots are very tightly woven into one of the buttresses. I've convinced the owner to pursue whatever avenues we need to in order to preserve it(I suspect they were OK with it becoming firewood until I told them it's got to be one of the oldest Ash's in Ireland). Other than putting a climber into this huge tree which I can not remotely guarantee its structural stability of, is there an herbicide that is safe for the tree I can use on the ivy? At this point I am almost worried to remove the ivy as it may actually be holding the tree together.

I'd consider replacing that Makita with a Makita if you intend to retain your current one as back up. Give a shout out to@shavey

I think Dave has one. He should be able to give us a good review about now. @outinthewood

Prices are good, and delivery is quick with chainsawbarsUK. Also one of the few places that always have semi chisel in stock.

We won't know for sure until we see one before us. But it's no secret that husqvarna needs to compete with the MS390/MS290 niche, and that's this saws' main market. Most estate owners I know here have a 290 or 390 that don't have a 365. So expect a lower cost and likely a gentle detuning. Man...I hate marketing sometimes. But if it allows me to purchase a pro saw for a hunert bucks less, and only spend an hour or so fiddling to bring it to snuff or better, I guess I can't complain.

I noticed the same issue on my 390, though not so bad I had to return it. The seal is a rather large piece of rubber. I guess it swells up a bit and makes it difficult to open. I just use less tension when I close it now and it works fine.

How's that hutzl lasting? I saw this not long ago... https://www.huztl.net/92cc-Holzfforma-Blue-Thunder-G660-Gasoline-Chain-Saw-Power-Head-Without-Guide-Bar-and-Chain-Top-Quality-By-Farmertec-One-year-warranty-All-parts-are-compatible-with-STIHL-MS660-066-Chainsaw-p692245.html

Would that ported 372 be that insane Simonized one we tried a few years back?

I know several builders that aren't the least bit impressed with how the 500 series are put together, often citing the seals, and general QC on Husky's new products. Mastermind is probably the most vocal, or at least the one I read the most. He's likely seen it all. In a recent lot of Stihls he tore down, the only QC issue he found was a reversed sticker; presumably to warn the tree before the operator.

It's the bottom limit for sumfin like a 125cc McCulloch. In a 261 what that should do is pop, start, run a bit, then once warm have running and idle issues until it dies and you spend way too much time trying to restart it, and then some crazy dude comes along and starts to drink water through it's filter to prove a point.

I was trying to find an example of using a hard dutchman in a Humbolt today at lunch. And, geziz christ, whatever ya do, don't ask Google to find it for you. Anywho, I think this is a scene from axmen that actually shows it rather well. It also shows at about 2:30 how a humbolt allows a fir to simply roll off another tree instead of lock limbs. And if you look, you'll notice they are cutting at just above the root flare:

You can get away with a lot of stuff on fir, and by learning on fir, if you use humbolts. A dutchman behaves differently on a humbolt cut in that if it causes the hinge to break, the tree will still rotate about on the hard dutchman as it breaks the hinge, and change direction. On a traditional face cut, you risk a barber chair, and the tree doesn't want to rotate. If a humbolt hinge breaks a bit too soon, all the tree does is fall down since it can't possibly move back towards you. It also tends to fall away from the stump and yourself, sometimes by quite a margin. If there's a chance it may become entangled, the humbolt allows the tree to rotate before hitting the ground. It also allows you to chase the cut until the hinge is nearly gone for less fibre pull, and for specialty cuts. That's my main issue with a 'tradition' face cut, and why I rarely use them unless I don't want the tree to move/rotate before it hits the ground(like near equipment or buildings etc) - I prefer the tree to fall away from me, and have no chance of coming back at me on the stump. Most mills in the US do not want the flare due to fibre direction and the fact fir is mainly used for construction. You're usually leaving the stump on the side of a mountain well away from equipment, and it is much easier on your back and far faster to cut above it. It's all about production in the US. So humbolts do not present an issue. I put this swanson cut on an oak on our estate because it had a heavy lean over a berm. I didn't want the oak to hit the berm and then slide back towards me. This way, it fell forwards, hit the berm, then slid and rotated sideways away from me. If you look at the tree, you can see the front of it is facing upwards as it had spun 180*. It was for firewood, so I definitely cut that stump down and took it all to the processor