wyk
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Everything posted by wyk
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I'm doing the exact same thing. Only I have a 281, thankfully. I also have a battery powered oregon chain sharpener, which I would suggest unless you have semi chisel chain...
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It's made of stihl
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Got her all back together, cleaned up some ports, and added a tach.
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The Stihl chain teeth are harder. I dunno about the carrier straps, but I have noticed it takes more to sharpen a Stihl tooth(which also means your files go dull faster). Having said that, I rarely get Stihl chain unless forced to. The Oregon chain have much larger teeth, more room in the gullet, and yet cut just as smoothly, last as long or longer till EOL(end of life), but are easier to sharpen. I only notice the Stihl lasting longer between sharpening in some dirty cutting near the beginning of it's life. Otherwise, it's a wash, really. You can also use a 7/32 file on an Oregon chain until the EOL. On a Stihl, you have to start with 13/64 and end with 3/16 to keep the hook from flattening too much to be of much use(.325 chain files); something I just had to do on my 98 DL Stihl chain earlier today(which is why I am responding to this thread now). I also think Oregon chain cuts noticeably better as the teeth top plates shorten towards EOL, I would guess due to the cutter being taller, with a larger gutter.
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This is the only way I've found works. Er.. "works"... I use this technique on round chain when I hit stones(only I use a round file...). It works well for taking a lot of metal off. [ame] [/ame]
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It's a complete pain to maintain. Where I was working in Oregon, the only thing the local shop had was full skip square filed. Impossible to sharpen in the field, so you brought several loops with you. In clean Douglas Fir, they last a good while. In anything other than clean, or in hard wood like oak, it would go dull alarmingly fast. But in Douglas Fir, which is one of the main woods it was designed to cut, it was stunningly fast. Here is my bone stock, aside from a muffler mod, 372xp in an Oregon big leaf maple(about like a bog ash in density) with half spent square filed full skip on a 28" bar: [ame] [/ame]
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Gaffers tape or plastic and a glue or heat gun.
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This prolly shows more of a difference. Though this saw is ported, it is not the beast in the previous vid. It is my trail clearing saw for the timber cruising work I did in Washington State. The rakers are silly low(like .045" as most of the trails will have Douglas Fir fallen on them), the wood is lodgepole pine(hard, as pine goes), the gullets are carved out to hell, and the chain is razor sharp with the same treatment as the previous pic, but even bigger gutters. It's also a standard 3/8 chain(as in NOT low pro) on a 16" bar on a 44cc saw: [ame] [/ame]
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It wouldn't hurt to also clean out your gutters/gullets. It's one of the first things you do on a race chain. Imagine the wood chip as the cutter carves into it. It curls down into that gullet. If there is a rise in the gullet, there will be some resistance as well as less room for the wood chip. You want as much room in that gullet as possible. It will also allow you to run lower rakers(assuming the wood and saw allow for it as well). That combo alone makes a big difference in speed of the cut. You can then also remove some of the sharp angles and weight from the rear of the cutter on a work chain to make even more difference without sacrificing reliability. This what I have done on the chain below(sorry, can't find my side view pic): And here is how that exact chain cuts, freshly sharpened, with low rakers and a saw ported to within an inch of it's life: [ame] [/ame]
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Here's sumfin interesting. I had these parts off the 281 recently and noticed they seemed rather heavy. It's the front AV mount(AKA 7th AV mount) and the outer felling dog. So, I weighed them. The later 288 Lite version deletes these features as well as the high top stateside. I see why. They aren't needed, and they are heavy.
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Cheers!
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Anyone know if the 281xp chain adjusting bolt is the same as on a 266/61 as I know that's what the local dealer will have in stock.
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Oh, it has the top exhaust, too That was my felling saw back in Oregon. She's seen a LOT of Douglas Fir.
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For felling I'd get the 064. For blocking, the 066.
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So yeah. She ended up punishing me today. Had her out removing a fallen tree across a neighbours gate. Ran just lovely until the chain adjusting bolt sheared. Bah.
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I'm a fan of the high discharge clutch cover myself. Can't find the part # tho:
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It's alive. Cheers for the help folks! Now off to Punish the poor thing for cooperating.
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This Send it to spud.
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It's flooding out. It wasn't metering perfectly before. I really shoulda got a carb kit before now. I may jis outright replace the carb since this one looks like it's seen better days. She did run great for a bit, tho. Real peppy for a 281.
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I now have spark! Thanks, ADW! Unfortunately, the carb is fairly hosed now. I am thinking a kit may fix it, so we'll see about that.
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Another advantage, other than weight, is that particular bar also has the old Stihl oil hole. That is to say, it is capable of flowing more than twice the oil the newer versions will.
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We have a 391 here, and it can not keep up oiling that length of bar for any real length of time. So it is definitely best you use it sparingly. Having said that, what you want is the laminated 25" bar, AKA the Rollomatic "E", which is becoming more and more rare. It is perfect for light duty, and it is also very light itself. In fact, it's likely one of the lightest 25" bars around. The Stihl part # is: 3003 000 5231
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Me, too. But at 36 or so years old, I'll certainly take a spare if one comes up
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Excellent. Mike - by 'trigger unit' I meant the secondary coil component that comes with the 281 coil. It triggers the coil. PM enroute ADW.
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Thanks, Guys. Yes, Steve, unless I can figure out a way to make something else work, I'll need the coil and the trigger unit for a Husqvarna 281XP. Desperately, too, as we've loads of huge trees down on the estate due to the weather.
