wyk
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Everything posted by wyk
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The early 12mm chassis used 10mm top ends. I have heard of 137's in Europe having identical topends to 129's. As for the air filter, it mostly adds weight. Unless you are cutting very hard dusty woods in very dry climates, I wouldn't bother with the HD filter. That muffler will definitely sap power. An after market one without the internal baffle is a good way to go, and cheap. Exhaust Muffler - Fits STIHL Chainsaws 044 & ms440 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK 046 & ms460.
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That's an interesting way to go about modding that exhaust. I just open the port a bit more on a 261. On a 241, I like to defeat the stratos entirely.
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I've sent you a PM. I port saws down here in the ROI.
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The 9010 is a different category than the 7900 series. It will easily oil a 36-40 inch bar buried in the base of an oak stump, and do this sort of work all day long for years. The 7900 is sarting to strain to keep the bar oiled with a load like that, and you'll eventually damage the B&C and maybe the chassis. It's not about the speed, it's about the task. If you need a 36inch bar or more, and it will be long cuts in hard woods, you might want to go with the 9 series. If it's under 36 inches, I am sure Shavey can hook you up with a 7900.
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Sounds like a Q for @shavey
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A bit overboard on the production, but it looks like a handy toy
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Straight rapeseed for nearly a decade doing all manner of work with ported saws between 36cc and 87cc.
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That part is NLA, and it also very rarely dies. I would make absolutely sure it wasn't generating spark and that the flywheel is fine and the coil is where it should be. You can find them on occasion on EBay and a few web searches. I had a 330EVL not long ago, and I found it a nice little saw. Had very high compression.
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solo by AL-KO | AL-KO WWW.AL-KO.COM Is all I could find
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I'm a big fan of the Makita 4300/Dolmar 421 myself. They wake up once ported, too.
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Rob also has 2511 rear handles he'll send stateside as well. ECHO CS-2511 WES - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK
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Give Rob a shout - he may still have a few about: ECHO CS-390ESX Comes with 13", 16"[40cm]+ 18"[45cm] Sugihara Guidebars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK ECHO CS-390ESX Comes with 13", 16"[40cm]+ 18"[45cm] Sugihara Guidebars
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I spill so much mix all over my saws, it wouldn't matter if I were cutting super glue trees...
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Just dicking around with a little Makita 4300f sawrs...
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Q's on 'proper muffler-modding' (and basic/entry chainsaw mods in-general)
wyk replied to ArborOdyssey's topic in Chainsaws
It may be a clamshell with a 90* angled exhaust port, A La Echo and old Macs. Here's an Echo 355t: This isn't directed at Steve, but the OP: How a saw behaves with the exhaust modified varies. The 'too much' part is when it starts to blow exhaust on plastics, or just gets too loud. Some exhausts have baffles inside that will go a long ways to defeating any improvements on the external venting if they are not removed. You will almost always need to retune the carburettor. Always mod the muffler off of the saw. If your piston is at TDC and you pull it over without it igniting any mix, it may actually suck in whatever is in the exhaust instead of blow it out. The last thing you need in a 2t engine is a load of steel shavings. -
The less time you spend on bar and chain maintenance, the more time and money you will spend on saw maintenance.
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Every adjustable oiler I have is set to max flow. This is a Mastermind ported saw complete with finger ports and huge compression, running straight rapeseed through an HO oiler. It's a 5 year old video. I still have this bar.
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Rapeseed/Canola has antioxidents naturally. So it's less likely to oxidize compared to some other bio oils, and a healthy choice for cooking with ;). Many bio oils have tachifiers added. In the UK and here in Ireland, it really doesn't get hot enough to need them unless you are averse to sharpening your chains. I say I work on an estate, but it's really more like a cattle and fishing ranch. I try not to pollute the environs with mineral oil if I can help it. It also saves a huge amount of costs.
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We've been using straight rapeseed oil for years without a hitch.
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That may be due to a limited coil. Does it happen at high rpm?
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Depending on a few factors, an electrical impulse/wave travels about 70% the speed of light in copper, with currents traveling around 1/100th the speed of light(c=nearly 300,000km/second in a void) through a metal wire. Assuming direct current, the signal reaches the bulb so fast it's almost as though there is no delay(unless you are a subatomic particle or a photon). The timing light likely has some sort of inductive set up with wires coiled around or terminate at a bulb, causing it to flash when there is an electric signal. Unless it's a rather fancy strobe, it's likely all wiring.
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At what RPM did you take the reading? Did you test it at WOT? Saws are usually in the high 20's or 30* range at WOT. Most all modern saws will advance the ignition.
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Yeah, about those TPS reports....
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The 390 I had came with a cat and no tube.
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Is the 501 a strato saw? On that 390 - it may have a cat in it as well.
