Goaty

Recommendation is not something I would stick to with hedging. The idea was to make it stockproof(how many hedges actually are solely to keep stock in/out?) and quicker establishment. If you have tried doing the 6 to a mtr as "recommended" Its a pain. You are more likely to get 4 or 5 if you plant with care and properly. If you look at established hedges sometimes they can be 6 or 8ft apart between individual plants, but the hedge still looks superb. I'd plant yew at 4ft apart personally. But Im patient.

You can't have or do anything these days. Mindless or jealous and vindictive. Shame they don't use their energies in a more positive way. If you keep en moist Dean they could reroot and survive still. Yew initiate new roots well.

Also to nit pick "live and breath " should say breathe.On homepage. Nice site though

I'd plant thickly at least in rows. To get the height quicker and straighter. If you plant for nursery stock to sell as plants for example, you could plant 2 of these to 1 firewood tree. Or plant 2 or 3 to 1 with larch , spruce or birch to a coppice tree as these will cut once then fail most likely, leaving your long term at final spacing. Evergreens for nursery stock at 30cm or more for final sale size need to be rootballed not bareroot. You could grow yew laurel privet leylandii. in complete rows alternatley. Taking out the rows. You need to space according to your machinery, including final harvesting/lifting gear. If you nurtured plants long term a firm called northern tree transplanters up your way could possibly buy large specimens to rootball in 10 or more years time. Pines are also easy to grow and golf courses etc buy large ones. This is a good idea. Long term investment. I recommend you both put heads together and put on paper, then in case of ill health, death etc. You are fair to each other. Who enjoys long term investment with no return?

I'd be very reluctant to cut and shut such a new shiny tell as well:thumbup1:

Excellent offer Rob. Just to clarify, is it the full range the offer is on or just resin light type? Looks like you will be selling a few of these.

Never used one but they seem to be prefered round here in the hire market. They seem to work similar to a power harrow in effect but bury the larger clods and stones. But you probably knew that.

H5 What a good idea for a competition.

Try Gumtree as well, I cleared the local location box so the whole of uk came up. Someone on here may be good enough to check it out for you before posting. I recently bought a 357xpg on ebay and its a good saw. now have both varients. When looking on ebay just type in xpg then select power tools catagory. Then when you have searched all xpg's under search bar it highlights related searches, one will be xp. click that as well. It does not work the other way ie xp 1st. Took me a month or more to get mine searching daily.

I had a 357xp like this. Went to spud, came back better behaved in the starting department:thumbup1:

£58 nr us in east yorks or it was a couple of months back.

Needs to spend a afternoon on a hospital ward attending to people with real issues in life and get out of her own self important universe. It may give her perspective. Getting her there would be the problem as a seagull may poo on her unattended garden. etc.

I have only used it the once on a 4ft diameter ash 9ft long. I stood on the log, the saw pulls itself true on the guide. My guides are only deep enough so as not to foul where the ladder rungs come through on the outer side. I adjust it quite snug. But so it does slide. The aluminium plates are so the wear isnt too severe on the ladder. I did have to chamfer the leadind edge/corner off so that it slide better. I noticed that it jammed and jerked on a dry run without saw in workshop. For a scale reference the box section steel is 20mm

Plagiarism is wanted Muttley then I can copy yours. Notes: the reason the the adjusting clamp bolts for ladder width adjustment is at the bottom is because if they are at top as they originally where it reduces cutting depth. I just turned it over,I used a 3120xp with a 36 bar at full depth and was suprised how stable it was and the smoothness off cut. As yet have not tried it on a sensible bar size. A winch setup, which I figure would have to be in the right place to keep true would be alot easier.

Trying to develop my own vertical cutting mill, the idea is that you already take to site or use a ladder when milling horizontally. So to cut down on rails and slabs and even cordless driver, if you use the ladder for side cuts. Im trying to speed up and simplify my set up. Anyway only had chance to use it once and now quite hectic. So I reckon from the winching idea thread that some on here may develop this idea better than I have so far. The basic idea is the mill slides along the ladder rails and is adjustable for various ladder widths. Saw clamps to the side so it runs parallel the the ladder side. First is a general picture. Second is were I had an error. The clamp bolt nuts are in the wrong place or too big, they cause the mill to ride higher at that side:blushing:

All depends on the terrain etc. If you say £1 a tree for all the labour, you should be safe. If you are getting silly cheap prices you probably get shove em in numpties who will only be interested in getting their wages. Off my head 10 acres is 4046 sq m times 10 = 40460 mtrs divide by 9 is 4495 trees. If you deduct the boundaries (varible on shape) I reckon 4000 trees should suffice.

Ive tried running rope over the round rail and under it. The anchor point Ive had at a height parallel to log and below log end. It tends to be the rear right side, probably caused by powerhead weight? If you couteract it it can tilt elsewhere. Maybe more practice needed. I will study it more next time.

Have you tried it Bob? I have had a go at milling a 100yr old ash trunk today. I havnt a lot of milling time under the belt yet. Much respect to those who do alot especially freehand. The winch is progress. However it does have the lift effect at the rear and I imagine the higher mounted winch bracket on Bobs causes frame endos(BMX speak from long gone youth) would be intrigued to know how it goes Bob. I have made a crude vertical mill frame minimill style but without the rails. It runs on a ladder instead, My idea is to save carting lots of different tools around, rails, slabs of wood, cordless driver etc. It works but needs refining I used it today with a 3120xp with a granberg ripping chain on a 36inch bar. I will post it in another new thread when I have pictures. Forgot camera today!

I use a 3120xp but rarely for felling, its nicer to rest it on a trunk laid on its side and cut through with gravity on your side. Also for alaskan mill. If its a walk to the site of use and you carry it, you are tired before you get there! Its not the weight alone its the numbness. Where do you put the bar when carrying and keeping it balanced. The reason these big saws come up for sale is. Numbness in use causes fatigue and as already mentioned, you can do most jobs up to 2 bar lengths of a smaller saw.

You can buy propriety cell trays with individual oasis type cells. If you dont find any Dean I will get the brand later in week when Im at nursery. I think its quikpot. holes are premade in the cells.

Just to clarify the bizzare is how the photos came out, I expected 3 pics all the same. Looks insulting when I reread it. Sorry:blushing:

Weepers can be budded or grafted on the rootstock lower down. You simply tie the shoot to a bamboo cane the first 2 years. Once the wood sets rigid it stays upright, up to the point it was trained. This one could be top worked or even budded on below visible ground level. Would need to have more pictures or see the tree. Its only detail and the tree has no sucker problems.

[/attach][/attach] Bizzare but managed it for you Bob

There is that point in the government systems, if your loaded with cash they will more likely roll out the red carpet. But even the albeit limited people I spoke to in forestry had the under 30 outlook. Hard work, in hard conditions with hard blokes that freak you out. Young men only wanted, plus the visa 30yr old cut doesnt help. A point I didn't mention for the OP is that they will likely examine your wife medically for pregnancy and lots of probing questions?