spudulike

I don't think I have seen the Triobrake system in the flesh but have seen the stihl one....I think on a 261. First thought was....Jesus, this throttle lock is stiff but then realized what it was all about.

Stihl had a chain brake system operated by the rear handle where the normal throttle lock is usually located. The saws brake would be engaged if pressure was released from the rear handle. It was a bit alien but probably a reasonable safety device!

I have had one that was sluggish from idle but revved out after that, I changed the accelerator pump and it sorted it. You only noticed it as a hesitance to pick up off idle when grabbing a fist full of throttle.

I think our Australian comrades would disagree

I know both of you personally, got no issues with either of you or either of your experience in different parts of the same industry so please move on as there is already too much aggression and bad feeling on this site. Save it for the few that have earnt it

You forgot the split inlet manifold around the impulse connector but obviously agree on the seals, both are rather interesting to fit BTW!! I am only doing customer dropped off work now so depends where you are in the "South East". I also don't just do the cylinder work as too much depends on the rebuild checks/final setup and don't want any hassle about who did what when the saw goes pop! The carb should have the manufacturer on it....it is probably a Chinese copy!!

The "Sprial" bit confused me but am now thinking it is the Mk2 spiral affair ....the carb is a Husqvarna specific so you are stuck with purchasing the OEM part for lots of £££ or €€€ if in Eire. Part No 582366401 Info here - https://s.cdnmpro.com/129506436/content/IPL-uri/550 XP Mark II.pdf

Good news, thanks for the update, always good after many putting forward possible solutions.

And I second this. How many actually blow all that chip out of the side cover of their MS200/201/150s? How many have stripped it down and not pushed that inner cover fully home as it should? How many notice the brake guard flapping around in the breeze because the flat spring has failed. How many operate a top handle without a chain catcher? I see many machines in from many operators of different sizes. I mentioned getting in two MS260s from different operators, both not running but both with failed chain brake springs which were not mentioned at hand over. I regularly see the MS201s in and the chain brakes don't operate on the very edge of the guard nearest the oil cap. This part of the guard not actuating the brake is the first sign of the chain brake having wear in its components or being stuffed full of chip - the actuation sound is also a clear indicator on the latter as a new unit is "crisp" and rings, a bunged one is much duller in note. As I mentioned earlier, in commercial manufacturing, machines have Health Checks, Preventative Maintenance and regular servicing. It would seem from what I see, chainsaws are maintained at the point of failure i.e. not running, impact damage or at the point it is totally unusable! I am not looking for work but have been around long enough to know the dangers of bleeding out and say that those elements mentioned above get serviced whether a customer asks for it or not!!

Common reasons for flooding are pulling the saw over too many times with the choke on without it starting or issues with the metering part of the carb that could be metering arm set to high, needle worn, metering spring weak, metering diaphragm deformed and the old favourite - filling the tank right up to the top and leaving the saw in a roasting van in the middle of summer.

Try fitting a new fuel filter if it hasn't been replaced. Having the carb apart and checking the gauze strainer if the fuel filter doesn't fix it. The tappets often need adjustment but sounds like they have been done - the pull start being difficult to pull over is a sign they aren't adjusted correctly. I have had one unit where the valve timing was one gear tooth out. The machine would never run as it should if this is the case. This would only occur if someone had stripped it down and got reassembly wrong!

I have recently replaced two chain brake springs on two MS260s. Funny thing is ( not so funny) is that both came in because both machines had packed up. I can deduct from this that both machines were being used with no working chain brake until they clapped out...both with impulse lines off if of interest. I regularly have 200s and 201s in with their chain brake mechanisms stuffed full of chip to the point it is obvious they are becoming ineffectual. These are all from pro commercial outfits....perhaps it is time saws had preventative maintenance or MOTs as the only time I see 90% of saws is when they don't run or are smashed. BTW, I am not looking for more work as am semi retired now but reporting back on how it is out there!! I agree much of the issues are with weekend warriors knowing nothing but the lack of maintenance in this industry is at odds with my past in the manufacturing industry.

OK, mapp gas torch....is that better...you know exactly what I mean...move on....and it works as a fix, proven many times through the generations!

Sounds low on compression, relatively common. A new piston and a bit of work on the bore would probably bring it back. The poor man's compression check sort of works but prefer a proper test.

Knowing the danger points of potential injury and how to avoid them is the largest part of being safe. Do you wear all the kit and not bother to switch the engine of when walking or know a trip with a running machine could cause injury and switch it off whilst walking ...two different outlooks!

Mmm, yes you should and the OEM carb is Zama so is also ' Chinesium' but are £100 new so unless it is an old OEM carb, makes the purchase much more appealing.

If the carb is a new one, that is £100 alone!

If the saw had an air leak, it would rev higher, sorting this will drop the revs to normal if the carb hadn't been adjusted. If you can wind the L screw all the way in without the saw stalling, it has an air leak of some magnitude.

Don't use the decomp, the valve lowers the compression too low IMO. Heating the plug up with a plumbers lamp can help the saw start. Worth pulling the plug out, switch the ignition off, turn upside down and pull over hard to clear unburnt fuel. You can try the redneck, hold the throttle open and pull over hard, frowned by many as being dangerous but it can get a saw running if semi flooded....if you are careful!! If the piston is free of scores and it is clean when viewed through the exhaust port and it sparks well then the carb is left. Crud in the gauze strainer is the most common fault, holes fuel line a possibility where it pushes through the wall of the fuel tank, holed pump diaphragm and weak or stuck needle valve being possible issues also.

The parts will be worth it. Worst case is that it has a Chinese aftermarket carb and top end or it has a shot crank and top end. If you can fix it, go ahead.

5-10 tanks and extend the cutting time if needed after the first five. If it is impractical to do this make sure you don't over do it for the first two tanks as the roughness of the piston and bore will lessen pretty quickly and with that, the heat build up will lessen. The important bit is flat out running from the start, no leaving it on idle and no excessively long cuts.

HP Super of Husqvarna Low Smoke, both semi synthetic and suitable for Autotune engines or fully synthetic if you have the £££. The Autotune means the saw uses less fuel i.e. less oil so using a good oil is more important as less oil means bearings and cylinder get more of a hammering. Running in - flat out but for short runs. You need to make the most of the roughness of the bore and cylinder to bed them together quickly but this generates heat hence 1-2' rings 2 or three then cool rather than long felling cuts with a 4' bar.

I sorted out my suppliers when I went pro with my business and their stance was in line with what you are suggesting. I was surprised that I was already on their radar and it gave me a comfortable feeling. Customers expect the world when a companies main business is probably generated by a handful of loyal decent mid size businesses rather than the odd fella that wants one bar and chain for rock bottom prices with no support for your business. You know your business and it is generally 20% of your customers giving your business 80% of your earnings so reward these and not the guys that just want a few quid off their once a year purchase of ....a chain!!!

....or you could put a bit of acoustic damping around it and seal it up in a cabinet to keep the noise in. Mine makes a bit of noise but ear defenders work....just supply them to your neighbours or should I say Les voisines

How do you sharpen your drill bits? Yup, bench grinder. The art is getting the pointy bit bob on middle and grinding it so the cutting part is proud of the rest of the ground top part. By eye works and you can give it a few goes if you cock up. You can clearly tell when it is good!!