spudulike

That's no good, not local to me.....anyone else?

I shot three on consecutive days and not seen any more so think I may have done it for this year!

Very unlikely as you are priming the saw with fuel and the primary compression and vacuum in the crankcase will not effect combustion, it will only effect the amount of air you are drawing through the carb and the pressure up the transfer ports (as pressure and vacuum will leak from the crankcase) and as you have already primed the saw, it should at least fire. A teaspoon of fuel may have just flooded the saw. A burst of brake cleaner, WD40, GT85, carb cleaner etc down the carb with the throttle held open will be more effective.

I think we have lost the fella.....guess he may have used the Husqvarna dipping oil It is possible he used too much oil around the bore and flooded the saw....easy to do and usually just needs clearing and putting a bit of heat on the plug to help combustion.

It was the most likely although BMP was pretty accurate in what he said. It sounds like it is fixed now.

I jokingly put "Next Christmas" on the poll......seems to be the leading the polls now!! My previous company (non arb) was ridiculously bad at meeting release deadlines...hence the view!!

I am not 100% sure how the primer works on this saw but on the majority of Stihl stuff and others, pressing the purge empties the bulb of fuel in to the tank and as the bulb expands it draws more fuel in to it from the metering section of the carb, on doing this, the diaphragm pushes on the metering arm, actuating the needle valve and more fuel is pulled through. If you are getting air in, your fuel filter is not fully in the fuel or the line is split. The bulb shouldn't pressurize the fuel tank as you are just pumping fuel through from it and back in to it. Are you 100% sure the primer bulb lines are on the correct way? Other issues are the one way check valve in the pump under the purge bubble can seal up and not work properly. With a MityVac, you can connect it to the carb fuel inlet and the purge should cause a vacuum. Connect it to the fuel outlet from the primer and it should produce a pressure. That is my normal fault finding on purge bulbs!

Sounds like lack of high speed fuel when you open the throttle. The metering arm suggestion would suggest this may solve the issue as should richening the H screw. Worth checking the fuel line, fuel filter, gauze strainer etc

Funny that, mine came from my fishing kit, used as disgorgers.

OK, sounds like the piston has survived which is good. An idle that unexpectedly increases is a warning sign to stop and get it checked out by someone that knows what they are doing. The manifold is the rubber bellows affair that joins the carb to the cylinder. On older saws they can split, often around the clamp that joins it on to the cylinder. You really need to remove the carb, muffler and cylinder to get to it for changing. I would check or change the impulse line first - they often get pulled off the connector just under the cylinder base especially if the bar gets compressed in a cut needing a bit of pulling to get it out. I did three 026s in three days like that! Forceps make a good tool for refitting them.

Here is a tip for anyone running chainsaws and want to minimise downtime......Take off the fuel cap when the tank is near empty and inspect for small bits of chip and shyte of any type. I used to do a lot of courier based work........on sending saws back, I drained any fuel from saws and always used a modified funnel with a very fine gauze in it and most saws left a lot of shyte in it so repeated the fill and empty process until the tank was clean. This fine sawdust tends to break up, pass the fuel filter and end up in the gauze strainer so...if you want to have an easy life.....clean the dust off your fuel cap, keep your tank clean and make sure your fuel container is also clean. I used a piece of stainless gauze stuffed in to the funnel with a ring of copper pipe....it works for me. Easy enough to do a check and hopefully save you a few £££....had two today like this!

OK, the fast idle is most likely to be an air leak. I have seen fast idles been caused by bits of twig and bark but on your saw, with its age, most likely air leak. Most likely causes, split impulse line (rubber line between the bottom of the cylinder and carb) or the inlet manifold. The impulse is relatively cheap and easy to fit, the manifold less so. The carb settings - set the H & L screw to 1 1/4 turns out from fully in. The saw may have seized, air leaks do that hence why I tend to pressure and vac check all old saws I get in. It will be worth pulling the muffler off and checking the piston unless the saw has loads of compression on pulling it over. You can also get site of the cylinder bore through the spark plug hole, something that makes a quick check much easier. Good luck, ask if you need any further assistance.

Very good Mr A, he did indeed say that he has fitted a new top end. He may have fitted the piston back to front, seen that before! If not, that blokes compression gauge is a bit iffy....unless it was 120 on one pull

Small strips of old larch lap fencing are good!

Should be "too short"....not "to short"......I hate bad English....must be my age!

BTW....where are you based? And I am not looking for work!!!

120psi is very low. If the saw had come to me, I would have popped the plug out and shone a light down the hole to look at the exhaust side of the bore. You can remove the exhaust and look at the piston surface through the exhaust port. My reckoning is that you will find some damage on it....scoring and black carbon. If you lift the saw with the starter handle, does the saw fall relatively freely to earth or does it fall and stop for a few seconds on each compression stroke? Old saws need a pressure and vacuum test, this ensures the LOWER crankcase is sealed by the rubber components and gaskets. The COMPRESSION test shows you secondary compression and gives you an indication on the state of the cylinder, piston and ring. You firstly need to know you have good secondary compression which means the top end is good, the pressure and vac test is to ensure the machine runs correctly and won't seize with use. I have seen saws with seals missing still fire and run......badly!

It was on my list but hey ho......

You sound like Donald Rumsfeld with his known and unknowns speech.....do you fancy a career in politics? You seem to have a good grasp of the facts!

Or leave a bike in the same place with a few razor blades hidden on it!!! A lacerated nether region doesn't sound good and may stop them procreating....best way!!

You can usually work the old ring in and out, scrape a little of the bruised metal out until the ring slides in and out freely.

It is usually a case to see if you can pick up a cheap Chinese one with the same drive shaft end type - splined (number of splines), square (Across Flats), inner shaft diameter and the same outer shaft diameter although the later can be shimmed up with thin plastic sheet, paper etc.

Unusual for NGK to break. The tight ring groove - use the broken ring to make sure the new ring fit isn't tight otherwise the ring will wear badly and not seal well. It is tight as the broken electrode will have impacted the edge of the piston crown - there should be a visible impression of the electrode on the piston crown edge and probably the squish band on the combustion chamber.

Lucky that didn't take out the bore. I have seen some real crap plugs from Chinese Manufacturers. Stick with NGK and Bosch IMO.

In my day we used to get old wrecker MOT failure bikes, get them running and then "bazz" about on them and then...sell them on! You learn a bit and make a bit that way! You just hope these dicks reap what they sow but reckon they will be unemployed most of there lives and go out of this world owning what they came in to it with...cock all!