spudulike

Just Google the saw model with "IPL" after it and take the part codes off the document. On Husqys, the heated handles and components are usually listed near the end of the document. IPL=illustrated parts list BTW!

No Castrol R...shame on you😉

What an arse...bare faced cheek...what a bummer Just getting through some suitable retorts!!! Sounds painful ☹️

Looks like an old K&N Filter or is it Pipercross!!

Bit harsh old boy

There, that fixed it: -

If you are in South Devon, try "Gardenkit", he is a member on this forum and is one of the few people I know and would recommend in your area - Near Sidmouth! He is a typical "Old School" mechanic/engineer so should be able to assist. east devon garden machinery | Garden Machinery Repairs WWW.GARDEN-KIT.CO.UK For all your new east devon garden machinery needs, from tractors to mowers and brush cutters. We can also service and repair your machines when they let you down, as well as...

Let us know how you get on. Hopefully the dealer is on it and you will get an answer that is good for you. They are not all bad but guess I get a fair share of horror stories from my customers hence my posts!

So it is back to pics of the damage.......get some up on here and lets look at it. Is the piston and cylinder bore clean? lack of compression will mean it isn't....lets see the damage and go from there.

Considering it is a "Spring 2021" saw, for such a fault, it should be refunded or replaced unless it can be proved the saw was run without oil in the fuel. Sounds like a seize or one of the bearings has failed and spat bits all over the place but can't be sure with no evidence.

I did hear of another local dealer...new carb on an MS200T.......£300.....really, I don't get it!!

Not being funny but if your new car packs up, you take it in to the local dealer and if it is a warranty fix, the local dealer...deals with it. If the saw packs up, if you take it to an appointed Husqvarna dealer then surely, they will deal with the warranty repair if it is proved to be a .....warranty repair. The issue is when the local dealer is one level above pond life who has trouble working his TV remote....I know they all can't be bad but some should wear tricorn hats, have two musket pistols and ride a black horse called "Bess"....just basing it on a local dealer trying to fit a new cylinder and carb on a MS200T with a loose exhaust owned by one of my customers desperate when I was on holiday......what can I say....it is fixed, basic engineering, two helicoils...all good

Probably "carbon damage" as I read on one customers warranty report. Needless to say, it was a load of sphericals!!!! What did they say about it??? Had a dismantled machine from one guy that was "beyond economical repair" and just reassembled it and it was fine

I didn't have it, he was adding it later so it tuned it close to max with no air filter in preparation. My personal opinion is hat they are significantly over priced for a lump of foam and some plastic.

Determining if an air filter is effective is simple, tach a saw running with a brand new air filter to pre determined RPM, put on a soiled filter and register the RPM, replace with the aftermarket one and measure again. if the revs drop when the air filter is fitted, it is restrictive. I actually tached a MS460 with and without its HD2 filter as the owner wanted to fit a Maxiflow and the result was that the cleaned used HD2 filter had very little restriction on the airflow compared to no air filter being fitted. You can tell from this that the HD2 air filter is working pretty well.

I don't do milling but a pair of tights makes a good sock that will keep your filter clean and have the advantage of making the saw run a little more rich thus stopping it overheating in the longer cuts. BTW.....You don't wear the stockings, you put a piece of tights around the air filter!! I know the Monty Python song....no smoke......... just saying!

A bit harsh, he was only asking about his hedge

If you are using 25:1 mix with an oil specified to be mixed 50:1 it will smoke, cover the engine internals with more carbon and the oil will deposit inside the exhaust and will generally foul the engine/plug unless it is worked at full heat and revs but even then, at best you will just produce more carbon. The comment you use "running lean" is generally used in relation to the AIR and FUEL (Fuel =petrol + oil) entering the engine. If you mix lots of oil in with your petrol, your FUEL to AIR mixture will stay the same (assuming the viscosity of the fuel isn't significantly affected) but you will be burning more oil and less petrol so is this technically running lean?......not really because in two strokes, "running lean" is normally used in conjunction with the engine over revving and thus overheating and seizing as the piston overheats and melts on the exhaust (hot) side. If you use too much oil, the engine will not seize, over rev or overheat but it will carbon up, foul the muffler/plug with unburnt oil and in extreme cases, will stop the engine revving out as it should. A mix of 50:1 or perhaps 45:1 if using modified kit is sufficient. 25:1 dates back to a time where the oils were not as advanced as they are now. The only time I have known machines to back fire is either on starting - mostly the 372XPT saw and assume that the coil has a very retarded start circuit and the other time are ignition issues and more often or not, it is a sign the flywheel key has failed and the ignition timing is that retarded, the ignition happens far too late causing the fuel in the muffler to ignite and backfire. Yours starts and runs for a period so it is very unlikely that this has failed. The fact it runs for a period, back fires and then starts again when colder leads me to believe that the coil heats up as coils do when you put a charge through them and this is making it fail - your coil may have a separate spark unit as explained earlier, it is possible that either this is failing under the heat of use or the connections are faulty. With ignition issues it is always worth changing the plug for a new one as people drop them causing unseen damage and it is always worth checking the HT lead and spur connector in the cap with a multimeter for continuity but beyond the "easy to do" options, the issues will be ignition linked. But ADW and I may be wrong!

The mix is dictated by the quality of the oil and not the machine. When the machine was manufactured, most oils had to use a 25:1 mix as the oil was of a lesser specification than the oils of today where most oil manufacturers now stipulate a 50:1 mix. Look at the oil you are using and see what the manufacturer recommends. Stihl and Husqvarna recommend 50:1 and some like Almsoil recommend 100:1. Your oil from your local garage is probably pretty low spec! It is very unlikely that this is the issue!

I think ADW is correct. The backfire would appear to be the ignition unit sparking too late and causing a backfire similar to when the flywheel key has failed but seeing this runs for a period, it won't be the key. I would close the coil to flywheel gap - you usually set to 0.3mm but try setting it with a piece of printer paper or similar so the gap is much closer. If this doesn't do it then it looks like the coil is failing when it gets hot and is showing up as the ignition timing going wrong. I had a MS460 once fail after 20 mins running and found this gap was too big, once adjusted....no issues. He is also correct about the spark unit and the connections - it may need a new one if it has one (it probably does - but make sure the connections are clean and good - a bit of a going through may save £££ in parts you don't actually need. The spark unit looks like this - the little metal box on the end of the wire....the big lump is the coil. The box needs earthing : -

How did he accelerate past the van with his hand off the throttle whilst doing the hand signal? Do they still teach hand signals for bike tests? Been nearly 40 years since passing mine!

Not being funny but once the location pin is in one of the holes on the semi circular plate, the head is locked solid and nothing will move that more than a degree or two unless the plastic handle is pulled back to retract the location pin. Is the cutter head loose on the part that connects to the pole shaft? It is possible the main screw that runs through both parts has failed or has been replaced and not tensioned correctly.

No problem, glad it worked out, always good when it saves time and expense. Just pass on a helping hand to others when you can as a "thank you". Thanks for letting us know.

Pull the plug, turn it upside down and pull it over hard to clear the fuel in the bottom of the crankcase. Ensure the ignition is off!!! I would suspect that you are getting the piston locking due to fuel entering the engine top end. If there is no fuel in the engine, the compression will be down to fuel in the cylinder drying leaving old oil in it making for excessive compression. This can be cleared by taking the plug out and using WD40 in the cylinder, pulling it over a few times then clearing it by pulling the engine over hard when upside down. It will be one of the two!!

I have had similar in giving a diagnosis to a saw issue over the phone. They piss off in to the distance and have left me with parts on the shelf before now after promising to send it in...bloody frustrating!!