spudulike

There is a bloke in Essex that imports them. He asked me about porting them as a bit of an added value sale but I wasn't interested as I have don't have much confidence in aftermarket kit in general apart from getting a low cost "sort of fix" to a broken bit of kit. I have seen too many MS200T manifolds get soft with heat and AV mounts fail after a week to know the OEM parts are best for everyday use!

Don't get hung up on it, basically you are applying a non water based fluid to loosen the dirt so you can then either use air or a degreaser to clean it off. Your stuff will be fine, just use the white spirit and a 1-2" cheap paintbrush to work at any dirt on the body, fins and carb and when it is all loosened up, give it a blast with your cleaner spray to make sure all the crud has gone - a compressor and air gun makes this type of work much much much much easier!!! Strimmer engines tend to not get that dirty - the air filter and carb will tend to though!

How about Ryland Clark and his "Cinch" advert selling something he refers to a "moa"....I think he is referring to the motor car and not a lawn mower....bloody annoying!!

You could pop it out and refit the other way round with a smear of liquid gasket on it. If the saw only leaks when it is running, it must be leaking from after the pump to the bar. Not sure I can come up with any other ideas as to what is causing it. I think I would be using a Mityvac on the oil channel feed hole with the pictured hole blocked to see if it holds pressure. It may be worth replacing that pictured seal...not the crank seal!!!

The "white stuff" is aluminium oxide and isn't bad in any way. The general condition doesn't look bad but just work the white spirit in to any dirt, oil or grease with the brush and then I would usually air jet it off but the solvent should wash any residue off or just use a cloth.

The cap looks OK, as long as it doesn't spark or track down the HT lead, it should be OK as long as the spur connector is attached to the HT lead OK. Some caps have 90 degree lead connectors, some are angled but yours looks like a good fit. Cleaning it up...white spirit, brush and a compressor or white spirit, brush and carb/brake cleaner will do the job but it looks cleaner than most of the kit I get in!!

Take the pump off and check there is a rubber round seal between the pump output and the oil channel input. My money is on it missing, damaged or split. The pump looks too new to be faulty unless it has been damaged somehow. I don't suppose you have had the crank seal changed recently? It needs to be flush otherwise it doesn't allow the pump to sit flat but generally stops the pinion spinning freely. Still a strange one for a fresh looking saw!

If the bar is fully clamped against the bar mount and the bar is correct for the machine, oil can't escape between the bar and the mount. I have seen old pumps leak from where the pump gear shaft enters the pump but that is from wear on the shaft so is unlikely on a near new machine. I guess you could seal the oil channel with a piece of paper/card clamped between the bar and mount to see if you still get oil pissing out. Run the chain semi loose and don't cut wood with it though, just rev it a bit. If it still pisses out, it isn't the mount that is an issue. This one is a bit weird! If this doesn't help, perhaps take the pump off and check for the seals on pump inlet and outlet.

BTW - you do know your bar plate is missing....don't you. This thing....It won't help if it is!! Inner Side Plate 0.9 mm for Stihl MS440, MS460 Chainsaws - 1128 664 1001 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Inner Side Plate 0.9 mm for Stihl MS440, MS460 Chainsaws Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1128 664 1001 Suitable for...

Well, the oil is supposed to come out of the oiling channel and would normally go through the oiler hole in the bar and lubricate the chain. If it is leaking out, the bar can't be sealing the oiling channel so the bar is the wrong one, the oiler hole in it is blocked or the bar mount is damaged. With the bar fitted, is it clamped up tightly against the bar mount? The oiler is adjustable but on the 661, it is a two position affair - I found this out on a customers machine where he wanted more oil and there wasn't much I could do to effect this. The oiler does have a sealing ring (part 1122 649 5000) underneath the pump that seals the pump outlet to the oil channel inlet. If this has somehow been left off, oil would piss out from the bottom of the machine. If this is present, you could use some light pressure with a soft rubber tube stuck down the oiler channel feed hole and see if bubbly water bubbles from anywhere on the casting.

One other suggestion, spray WD40 in to the oiling hole to the back of the oiling channel whilst plugging the gap around it. Do this and check for leakage from damage ....it is possible the loose e clip has cracked or damaged something. There is a small rubber sealing ring joining the pump to the oiling channel feed. If this is missing or is damaged, the oil will do what you have .

From what you are describing, the saw only leaks when running so seeing as the bar should seal the oiling channel, as long as the bar oil hole is clear, the oil will be coming from around the bar mount, or from the oil pump gear shaft up to the oil channel. The most logical cause is that the drum coming off caused some damage to the oil channel/pipe between the oiler and the oiling channel. Remove the drum and clutch, check for damage around the oil pump to bar mount as I can't see any damage on the bar mount. I am assuming that the bar is clamped tightly by doing up the bar mount nuts.

Drill and use an easy out or possibly recut the thread if you can get it Bob on central to the broken screw. It is damn difficult to get central do the easy out is possibly the best option. If you run it, the extra heat being dissipated from the leak may seize the engine...it has been known!!

At the prices you mention, you really need to be doing a chain every 10-15 mins, the issue is checking the raker/depth gauges as well as this takes time rather than just giving the cutters a quick tidy up. I guess that most outfits don't do this service as well when sharpening chains. You then have to send back each chain so a minimum order (as Rob suggested) would be good but then that cuts out the domestic market weekend warriors and it takes time to invoice, pack and sort out address labels etc. I very rarely do chain sharpening and then only on request or if the customer is more of a domestic user as they have less of a clue on the angles. I use a cheap grinder but have fitted a speed controller and just pulse the sharpener so little heat builds up so no hardening of the cutter. I personally hate chain sharpening unless it is a "Tickle up" on a well maintained chain. The only way I would make this a business is doing it as a weekend beer funding venture.

These gearboxes are not 100% sealed, the system is a total loss lubrication system and over time, most of the grease will be lost so you need to replace the lost grease. Sure, much of the grease comes out around the drive bearings (ooop the shaft) or out by the blades but, it isn't sealed unlike a car gearbox that should be sealed. Because of this leakage, the gearbox that isn't greased, the grease goes a bit silvery and hard destroying the bearings, gears and rods. Forcing in new grease will force some of the older grease out replacing it with something that will lubricate. I remember talking to a printer service engineer called in to a company I used to work for saying a previous customer he had visited had turned the oiler off on a £1/2m printer as it kept dripping oil all over the floor. The whole Cylinder screen printer had destroyed every bearing in it through loss of lubrication as it had "Total loss lubrication"....it pisses out the bottom and you wipe it up then top up the oil reservoir.....this was one of the best screen printing equipment manufacturers around at the time and was....Swedish!! .........Svecia if you are interested.

Because, those that don't, end up wiping out expensive gears, rods and bearings. I very rarely see a well greased gearbox have issues. The ones that do have very little grease or the grease has gone hard. Of course there is a happy medium but you can't tell how full the box is so generally, once the grease starts seeping out, it is full and will then do the 25hrs until it is next greased. I guess the smartest operators will give the head 2-3 pumps each time the unit is used but that is a rarity from what I have seen. Many miss one of the greasing points on the gearbox and have no idea they should be regularly greasing it.

Can we take it that you aren't that keen on the KM130 then?

It gives different issues on different saws but generally a bad pump gives an idle that just rises in revs or fluctuates and dies without touching anything. Generally it makes the saw impossible to tune in the normal way and a solid idle is never achievable. On some saws and 4T kit, the symptom can be a poor pickup from idle with the engine stumbling if the throttle is cranked open suddenly.

North Herts....currently possible but busy with other projects.

Sorry no, just local customers only. Those bark boxes and the like are stupidly loud, only suitable for forestry and not for domestic and commercial work in my opinion.

Grease is the lifeblood of bearings and gears - look at it like water and food to humans. No grease.....the bearings die a nasty drawn out death getting worse and worse until.....DEATH and a BIG repair bill

I used DHL for a long time and knew the driver - Marius but called him Marion!! He stopped and pickups became hit and miss so use ParcelForce now and they are pretty good. I usually go through Parcel Monkey as it was much cheaper but it may be they now charge the rates the brokers get and go direct now. They were always £3 more expensive but are pretty much the same as others now - it had to be done to keep the business.

Funny that, my best days in servicing are the hour long jobs you hit one after the other rather than a whole day replacing a crank, bearings etc on a full rebuild and port!

Just skimmed through this thread. The KM four strokes should be pretty easy to turn over as they have an automatic decomp valve that partially opens the valves on starting. When they feel difficult to pull over, it means the tappets need adjustment - this method is not really how you should do it, regular maintenance is far better but I have noticed this on machines that I get in that are "neglected"!!! I adjust the tappets by feel...yup, that's it, it is far easier, quicker and once you have done a few............. A machine that is slow to pick up if the throttle is grabbed open fully - most likely worn accelerator pump. I got a KM130 in a while ago, it had been to around 4 dealers, it turned out one of the illustrious dealers had set the valve timing up incorrectly, fortunately not clumping the valves with the piston. The carb had also been changed....for a Chinese AM one but had used the Stihl top and bottom cover so they could charge the customer £130 for an OEM one. This machine was sorted and had a decent amount of power once done. The greasing on trimmer heads is every 25 hrs of running and you just keep pumping until it comes out and it depleats over the 25 hrs and is then filled again. Failure to do this kills the bearings, rods and gears....they aren't cheap. Seen a few 94s now, probably a better option if you don't want 4T, strange choke arrangement but seem pokey to a non user!

Bummer on that saw, expensive lump, just done a search on my DB of customers saws and it isn't one I have had through my workshop.