spudulike

A saw is a saw, a fix is a fix - always feels Grrreeeaaaattttttt fixing anything:thumbup:

If it is the two part oil pump and inner clutch cover, the single part number is both parts sold together!

Did your Aunt have to purchase it through a face to face transaction:lol: Here is one I ported: -

And I thought you would be a tea and cake man:lol: I didn't mean anything by that, you do a much wider of variety of kit and I specialise in one type specifically - I know enough about business overhead from my manufacturing days - finished us off in the end:thumbdown:

No, it was probably fine and the dealer has his overheads to pay for - I just have my shed and a liking of cake with my tea:thumbup:

Group hug.....comeon - even you Rich:thumbup:

That's quite possible!

Try manually pushing the throttle arm on the carb shut to see if the throttle mechanism isn't sticking open a little. Some of these cutters have a quadrant the cable runs over peg ore connecting to the carb and it has a t27 screw to take up slack in the cable. Check it isn't holding the throttle open

Think I will be putting my prices up, usually charge well short of £250 to sort out a seized saw!

Bloody hell Rich, "buy a Husky, a dodgy Stihl", Dover Times, hold the front page....Rich is coming out of the closet:lol:

Firstly the H&L screw are 1 turn out each - sometimes the older carbs can be a little finiky to set and seem to like the settings a little on the leaner side but try the standard setting before worrying. The oiler - the very old machines didn't have adjustable oilers, it is possible yours is one of them - you can probably retro fit the adjustable one if you like. The cover - I haven't got a clue what you are talking about - it is the chain adjuster that is on the cover between the bar studs:confused1: Have fun:thumbup:

Sounds like the clutch springs may be a bit worn, common problem on most saws at sometime in their life. Will cost you around £5 for the springs, you will need to remove the clutch to make changing them easier - it is a left hand thread so turn the clutch clockwise to remove it! You will need to lock the piston in place using a piston stop - use the double ended Stihl one as it wont damage the piston like the steel screw in ones will. Rope down the plug hole also works but the Stihl stop is without doubt a decent too when used correctly. The clutch can be removed with a wrench and socket - you may need a long reach one. Just remove the old ones with long nose pliers or screw driver and put the new ones on by hooking one end on the clutch shoe and use a piece of string round the hook on the other end to give good purchase when stretching it to fit. That should sort it:thumbup:

Firstly, chill, life is too short, so what the oiler is pissing out more oil than the average oil well:lol: The L screw is the screw closest to the cylinder. It is unlikely you will do damage with what you have done as the later carbs H&L screws work independently to each other so the L screw adjustment won't lean the saw out. This wasn't the case on the older 026s that can be a pig. You have to be careful with the indications on the air box as if the red limiters have been removed from the carb, they will be wrong - I have seen saws lean seized due to this. Just shine a light down the hole where you adjusted it and see if there is a small black screw down there or a red plastic plug. The fact you were able to keep turning makes me think they have been removed. If the limiters have been removed, both screws should be one turn out from fully in - this gives the basic setting. If the chain is spinning all the time - is the idle a bit high? if it is then the LA screw will bring it down but if it is idling normally then it may be the clutch springs need replacement or just crap in and around the clutch drum or twine wrapped round the end of the clutch....or a knackered needle bearing. Does the saw run with the chainbreak on?

Many Stihl and Husky Cylinders are manufactured by Mahle and this name will be moulded in to the cylinder above the base, I am not sure who manufactures the Dolmar ones. Generally the top of the cylinder will have a letter A/B/C on the plate on the top of it denoting the final bore size and the piston that should be fitted. The ports will have a very clean finish and bevel to them and the bore will have a decent finish and have diagonal honing in it. The piston will have machined and not moulded inside flanks where the small end fits in to it. It will be finished with no rough flash from the manufacturing process. The top of the piston will have something a bit more than an arrow on it, generally a manufacturers mark. If the box is pure white, it is Chinese. I am not that familiar with Dolmar but generally the fit of the piston in the bore is pretty poor on aftermarket kit and the cylinder bottom has the original rough casting finish and hasn't been machine turned on finishing! I did look at the listing and he doesn't list it as an OEM part:blushing:

It is usually lack of oil that is an issue and not too much:lol: What sort of oil do you use - is it because it is very warm at the moment and the oil is naturally more fluid? I guess if it is a real problem, you could fit a reducer in the oiler outlet hole - a small piece of smaller diameter pipe would do! Think I would really want to find a true solution though.

Nice blue pencil Barrie:lol:

Well it's late and I am going to join her......in going to bed that is and not together you understand:blushing::lol:

If it fits on your bench then go for it, guess you have some behemoth of a traction engine lurking in your garage:001_rolleyes: Fit it on your bench and take a pic:lol: Rich doesn't like the porting talk cos he fooked his MS260 porting it:blushing: Never mind Rich - you fixed those bikes of yours yet - got a pigging Piaggio to fix soon - flippin Chinese one:001_rolleyes:

In short, YES - light, low vibes pro kit - worth around £500 new!

You can take medication for that Rich:thumbup:

Who asked you Ryobi Man:001_tt2:

The rubber boot pushes on to the cylinder, the tab lines up with the right side of the cylinder tab with the fuel tank facing you, the plastic part then pushes firmly over the boot - get it alligned properly otherwise the impulse hole in the other end of the boot won't line up with the handle. I usually add a little HT grease on the join to bed it. The circlip - only ever seen one machine with one fitted, all the rest worked fine and as you say, the IPL doesn't have it fitted.

Just read this again - as JLA says, you do know that the oiler has an adjuster screw accessed from underneath the machine - this screw on maximum gives out enough oil for the maximum size bar you would use on the machine so if you are using a 13" or similar on it and it is set on maximum, you are likely to get too much oil being used. Another thing to check is that the oil tank breather only lets air in and not out - take the stainless plate off, remove the filler cap, LEAVE THE SAW ON ITS BASE otherwise th eoil wil come out:001_rolleyes: Put a soft rubber pipe/fuel line over the breather/vent (small round aluminium plug with a hole in it above the bar mount studs) and blow and suck, you should be able to blow in to the tank but not suck out. If this is leaking, it is possible to get lots of oil leaking out if the saw is stored on its side. Other things to check - the bar oiler hole is not a through hole (right through the bar) and that the oiler pickup does have a filter on the end of it. Not sure I can think of much else!

Or just post the issues up on "Whats on your bench" and you will get some sound advice.....and maybe a bit of abuse:lol:

Have you checked the hole in the bar is clear of chip? It is easy to spin the bad around and forget to clear it and get not a lot of oil out of the bar! Is the thin stainless plate fitted to the bar studs? Other than that, check you haven't a hole in the pipe that connects the pump to the outlet channel. As Rich says, it is a Stihl, made to leak oil:001_tt2: