spudulike

OK - so the burner is alight, the misses was threatening to turn the oil fired heating on - the price of oil against free wood....sod it, the fire gets lit:001_rolleyes: Call me a pansy and your next saw doesn't get ported:001_tt2:

Well the log burner is glowing red and throwing out a nice bit of heat - looks like Autumn has descended early this year:thumbdown:

A decent heated ultrasonic cleaner will shift that, I use a special carb cleaner and de-ionised water. Other than that, carb cleaner may work. A good soak in white spirit may help if an ultrasonic cleaner isn't available.

When a saw is idling, a slight force or friction to the crank will stall an engine. On a chainsaw, when the chain brake is applied, it should allow the crank to turn freely but should lock up the cutting gear but not cause any friction or braking on the crankshaft. Generally this sort of issue is a bad or dry needle bearing, twine wrapped round the crank end, broken clutch spring or dirt in the clutch drum. The MS261 has a documented issue with the needle bearing/crank end and will not dwell on this but the above reasons should give you a good starting point to resolve your issues.

It may be a possible air leak as Rich says but an air leak usually has other symptoms such as bogging when the throttle is snapped open and holding on to revs if the throttle is closed fast - it also depends if it is leaking when the crankcase is under vacuum or pressure. You may find that increasing the L screw to say 1 & 1/4 turn may help. One thing it may be is low compression from a partial seize or carbon damage - you should really measure it to discount it - 150psi is reasonable compression on one of these saws and expect 170psi on a decent one. Try that and feel free to ask for more info:thumbup:

Get the carb kit from Rowena Motors. Don't be put off by the website

Neighbours - oh what a life, we had a similar instance with our previous privately owned house and eventually had the tree down and sold up, we called the guy next door the "Bell End".....because he was:001_rolleyes: It got to the point where he used to let the dog out in the garden to bark at us so I used to bark back....thats how bad it got. Good thing we don't have right to arms as in the USA! I did seek legal help on this one and the only advice was garden law can be a mine field and may end up costing a fortune and even if you do win, if the neighbour has no money then you will get your expenses and claim back £0.50p each month - the legal system is sometimes a real bitch! Nowerdays, if neighbours need any help, I always oblige, very difficult to complain about a guy that has done you a few favours and has helped you in the past....seems to work round here but we still have one or two ijuts but are in the vast minority:thumbup:

Skoda Octavia 2.0TDI - got a bit of go and I regularly get 57mpg driving normally and 60+ mpg driving like a typical Skoda driver:blushing: Put 70k miles on mine in three years and it has been a good work horse with no issues!

Try this part - 1128 180 0910 It is the on/off switch and control shaft that actuates the choke and on/off mech!

TBH Andy, I started it and then put it in the garage and not had much of a chance to look at it, seemed all OK, lots of compression and all that stuff - will give it a going over in good time - thanks for the collection service:thumbup:

Just started on a MS260, presented to me in a cardboard veggi box:001_rolleyes: First thing is that the piston has had so much wear that a slap has set in and eventually shattered the piston skirt, you can see the reduced thickness of the skirt arrowed in one of the lower pictures. You can quite often hear the slap on older machines on idle. This machine has had so much wear and slap that the piston has hit the squish band as can be seen on piston crown on the lower photo! First thing to do was make sure the crank bearings are good - they are fine and smooth running:thumbup: New Meteor piston now in - always a good replacement to the OEM part! The owner wants the saw ported so taken a look at it and there really isn't much on the table compared to the Husqvarna equivalent. The uppers can be cut back taking care of the ring ends, the skirts are not too wide - 1mm wider on the replacement piston, so taking care not to go too overboard on the ports, easy for the inexperienced to get caught out - the inlet is close to the ring ends and too much widening will snag the rings, the exhaust can be widened by 1-2mm either side but again, the skirt is a little narrow so gotta be careful. I have opened up the piston windows, simple and effective in maximising flow without reducing transfer velocity and pressure, I will leave the lowers to keep transfer velocity as high as possible. The muffler is an abomination and makes the saw sound far too flat so that will get modified in due course:thumbup: It will be an interesting project once done as it is the first MS260 I have ported and wonder if it will have a bit more go than in standard trim!

Sounds like the same advice as I would give, I would firmly agree with WYK on this one:thumbup:

Yeah. That's the first thing I noticed, a couple of hundred miles from each other! There has been outbreaks of car sales on Gumtree going bad, you turn up with a large wad and get done over! A possibility, perhaps we should go and look at it mob handed:thumbup:

Grind from the outside in and use diamond files to bevel, the transfers are worked on from the inside!

Thats what Stubbys one has got along with a bad boy muffler - loudest saw I have tried to date:lol:

It will be worth stripping down as there is probably one component givinng the issue rather than the whole assembly giving issues. One thing to watch out for, there is a small leaf spring that is on the brake that has two thin arms on it, go carefully with this part as it is easy to break the part.....don't ask me how I know:blushing: Part -501 87 47-01 Use the IPL to help - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDIQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.h-machine.jp%2Fpart_list%2Fhusqvarna%2F272_1999.pdf&ei=890wUrzyJ6rR7AbmnoDQDA&usg=AFQjCNH7am2sO9GKE9QPRFEDXFAV0ylMFA

Just measure the piston skirts as they will be your limiting factor and not the maximum allowable size as would be the case for a non windowed piston as fitted to the 346 and 357 husky. The piston should cover the port by a safety margin, not sure if the base gasket can be dropped or not so you will need to measure the squish, the transfers should allow some modification, the uppers will be limited by the ring ends and the lowers can be opened up as can the piston windows. The rest will come from opening up the muffler. You may like to think about how you are going to bevel the ports - if you don't then you may well snag a ring. It is all easy....if you have done a few before:thumbup: PS - the rest you will have to spend time learning as I have:sneaky2:

Give me a week or two, on holiday at the moment - what happened to the sun:thumbdown:

I did wonder but didn't want to presume - always worth checking crclips under a bright light and magnifying glass IMO. You live and learn - at least the £150 was a very fair payout and will help will help with the new saw:thumbup:

You didn't see his thread on the explosive big bote kit, no disrespect to Daniel, it looked like a circlip had failed and the side of the piston had then fractured as the gudgeon pin loosened and came out, a right mess but unsure of the reason of the failure!

It is damn easy to cock a cylinder up by just taking a dremmel to it. You need to understand the limitations in the original design - usually the ring ends and the size of the piston skirt and then make your modifications around them. To do this well, you need to understand what you are trying to achieve and work within known safe limitations otherwise the saw may at best have short life and at worse, just not work or have some serious engine port issues. The simplest mod is a muffler mod as it changes no significant engine parts and increases flow and power from the engine. Choice is yours, measure twice and cut once:thumbup:

I have seen the blue type before, the old nitrile type is found on older carbs and tends to be replaced by thinner polyester sheet types nowerdays. If you want an original carb kit, Rowena Motors are the boys to ask, Hugo is the guys name and he is da man as far as carb bits and info are concerned - do not be put off by the crap web site:thumbup:

Well done bud, well deserved

What sort of insert? If you were helicoiling it, you may be able to fit a larger indert!

Now theres a plan! Think being at home on the bench is better than this weather, rough as a badgers arse:lol: