spudulike

The ported 357XP is up and running, new clutch needle bearing, tank vent, clutch springs and rim drive. All sounds good, just needs a tach tune and a run through some wood. The ported 254XP also lives, fitted two new crank seals and finally got it airtight after also sealling a very slightly leaking decomp valve thread. The saw now has......a very interesting pickup, it was a little like an underground train before porting but now revs like a two stroke motorcross bike, need to get this tached and then a few cuts as well, early signs look good:thumbup:

No Worries, the time serts are pretty solid if put in correctly with a decent cut thread, should last well now!

Its gotta be done hasn't it, I havent fired my own saws up for months yet the log stores are pretty full now:blushing::lol:

I guess you are talking aftermarket parts here Rich or have you left a zero off for Stihl parts:001_rolleyes: You would be lucky to get a Stihl piston for 50 notes:lol:

Not seen moving carb screws before, the issue may be an air leak so do the vac and then the pressure check, you could try moving the handle and imulse about with the saw on the deck and see if the revs change as if the problem is with these components, doing this will change the revs. You could try swaping carbs with a good carb and see if the problem goes away. I have had similar issues and it is possibly a leaking welch plug or the accelerator pump if the vac and pressure tests come up fine.

From memory, one guy asked Brad what half a key width would give on advance and he quoted 10 degrees which one guy on here then took as a reasonable amount to advance the timing on his saw. The point I was making was that IMO, ten degrees may well cause some serious running issues - I think Brads reply may have been a bit "matter of fact" rather than giving a valid opinion on what degree advance would make a positive gain with this saw. Not wishing to cause issue with what you have said but that was where I was coming from in my post and not picking fault with Brads work:thumbup:

Sounds like you need to try a customers trimmer or long reach out ...to make sure it is working fine after a service of course:blushing: Stuff the loppers:lol:

Think it needs a muffler mod and a bit of distortion:lol:

Just shows why I get so busy, anyone who has their kit fixed by me gets the fault done free of charge if not sorted first time round, there are one or two exceptions to this but is generally the case if a full refurb doesn't work fully 100%! All dealers aren't the same and it is worth telling the dealer what you have found, it is sometimes damn difficult to sort intermittent issues without having a load of wood to cut or a field of undergrowth to strim down and if you don't tell them and give them the chance to redeem themselves, they can't sort your issues out!

Oh and don't get too hung up on security locks and latches - if someone wants to get in, they aint gonna lever out the door frame - knocking the glass in would be much easier:001_rolleyes:

You push them through the apperture from the inside accross the diagonal and then pull them back in to place. Don't see the issue, I tied a rope around some of my upstairs ones and the wife then carried them up the ladder on her back with me taking the weight.........and you may think I am joking:blushing::lol: It isn't too difficult, cut through the old frames, cut around the plaster and bang them out, make sure the frame goes in square, use the plastic spacers, don't use the rawl plug screws, use the self cutting torx ones and pre drill the hole with a long SDS masonary drill. Fill the gaps with foam - don't over do it and then when the glass goes in, understand "Heel and toe" the method the fitters use that makes the glass retain the frames squareness by using spacers in the correct corners. Simples.....well not too difficult if you are good at DIY - a cordless drill is good and make sure you measure up accurately - I took photos of the existing frames when I specified mine - no issues at all really! If the frame comes in a few mm too big - a wood plane takes the size down nicely:thumbup:

Problem points are generally gloop and/or chip in the tank stopping the oil pickup drawing oil through to the oil pump, a plugged oil pump or just wear in the pump itself. Other than that, worn or damaged worm drive pinion can also cause issues!

Thats a good call - it does work, usually I use carb cleaner or GT85, work on the fins with a craft knife and the rest with a screw driver, nothing is magical - some powerful oven cleaners work but nothing is an easy option!

A rough rule of thumb is the bar size in inches is a third of the cc of the machine so 60cc is 20" etc.... 30" on a MS441 will need a calendar to measure the cut speed:lol: 20" for speed or 25" if you need extra cut length

Viewing it on my phone, I thought it was a house brick but on closer inspection, believe it to be the carb:001_rolleyes:

I always find this argument is pretty tedious, bit like arguing which is better, an Indian takeaway or Chinese......just depends on what you like:001_rolleyes: Jonsereds are always good saws, same build quality as Husqvarnas but generally lower cost:thumbup:

Does that make you something to do with Matty??? Just thinking who I have done MS260s for:confused1:

Please, don't buy a Jonnie....all we will get is how Stihl are better than Jonsereds:001_rolleyes: What are you getting - 920 or something similar?

Well the 254XP has hit a brick wall, air leak traced back to the flywheel side, put my last spare in and it was better on vacuum but not perfect but the pressure check that had been perfect, was now awful - letting out air on the clutch side so got a new seal on order. Started work on the 357XP again, full port job, nice finish on widened inlet and exhaust port, re-profiled uppers and slight mods to the lowers. Two muffler mods and should finish the 357XP soon and the 254XP later in the week.

Fitted my own around 8 years ago, not as difficult as you may think, I did around two windows a day. The cost - around £200 for a normal mis size window, £250 - 300 for a door, £500 for a french window and a fitter would charge around £100 per apperture fitting. Four windows - around £1k and £1.5k for fitting and disposal - sounds a little steep IMO! I burnt my old frames so a double win:thumbup:

Cut it off the fins with a craft knife

Yes but rumour has it you have painted some parts grey and put a "Stihl" sticker on it to allow you to use it:lol: Think I may have to save it from your possession!

Not sure we would want him on the dark side Andy, reckon he has been assimilated by Stihl:001_tt2::lol:

Genuine parts.....I think not, the maximum revs figure is far to low, I reckon you will be better buying a real one.....pays your money once, pay more and get the real deal!

May have to come down to the show and abuse your carving:lol: More mushrooms is it:blushing: